Binoculars? Where to start...

[KC8QVO]

Exactly as the title suggests... where does one start in figuring out the specs on binoculars?

I have two uses for them that pretty much encompass what I want out of them:

Lake - be able to spot boats and wildlife. An example is I want to be able to see a bear or elk swimming across the bay at a distance of 1.5-2 miles. I'd like to see boats better at 3-5 miles.

Range - I want to be able to spot a target at 75-150 yards

Can I cover those purposes in a single pair? Size-wise smaller is better, but not real critical. I'd like to be able to take them backpacking also, durability would be important too. Price-wise - I have no idea. Less expensive is better, but I don't know where to start and I don't want something "cheap".

What are you using? What are the specs? What are the binoculars' strong areas? Weak areas? What would you get different, if anything, and why?

 

[MTboatguy]

You just need to start reading through some of the experts recommended models websites, such as :

http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/binoculars.html

http://www.opticsplanet.com/howto/how-to-choose-binoculars.html

http://www.binoculars101.com/bin-choose.html

We can all make our recommendations, but binoculars are a personal thing and what works for me, may very well not work for you.

Good luck, let us know what you find out, and remember, good quality multi-purpose glass is not cheap, I have thousands of dollars invested in several scopes and binos.

 

[gm280]

Okay KC8QVO ( is that actually a ham radio number?), see if I can help. Obviously you have two very different issue you want to cover with one set. The long distance will certainly take a variable or zoom figure but then you want something to cover fairly close range as well. So variable power binoculars are you choice. And like any type optic, the better the lens, the better the clarity and usage. Cheap is really a relative term. One persons cheap may be another persons too much price issue. However, when you want a quality binocular to be able to cover various ranges with a clear non-cloudy look, you have to fork out some money to get that capability. I would check the offerings from Leopold, Zeiss, Burris, and the like. Yes they are a little on the expensive side, but they produce the quality lens you will have to get to give you something worth using. As power goes up, the quality of the optics come into play big time. And the larger the objective lens the better light gathering capability they will also have. So only YOU can look them over at a hunting store and see for yourself which one suites your needs. Also, try to get them with nitrogen sealed designs. That eliminates the lens fogging and moisture penetration that certainly ruins any optic. Multi-coated lens both external and absolutely internal are a must. That reduces glare and allows for more light to pass through each lens. As light passes through each lens, you lose some of the light. But multi-coated lens reduces that loss significantly. That is not just a marketing ploy. I hope this helps a little, but YOU have to pick each one up, hold them in your hands and test them for your usage. Then don't pick the cheapest to save money. Pick at least the middle of the list with the best options. I use to use cheap scopes while hunting until I finely broke down and bought a very high end quality scope, with top quality lens and multi-coated as well. The difference was night and day. Now nothing sits on any of my rifles that are cheap... I am particle to both high end Leopold and Burris offerings, but others are on the list as well. Zeiss are really good and so is Swarovski... JMHO!

 

[64osby]

I have some 30 year old 7 x 50 Stiener's I use for hunting. They would not meet all the requirements you are looking for, but I have never looked through another pair with the optics that these have.

 

[K-2]

Are these for use when on a boat? Boats move too much for 10X and above,,in my opinion.
I just got these last spring, great binocs for the price! Very clear . Only thing I'm not in love with is the twist up eye cups, but I am getting used to that.
I would buy again. Find a store that has them and give them a gawk. They also come in a tan, light brown color.
http://www.opticsplanet.com/leupold-yosemite-8x30-black-red-natural-binoculars.html

 

[KC8QVO]

Thanks for the info thus far. WOW. I'm looking around and there is a lot of options. I was browsing at the store today, didn't really pay any attention to the specs, I wasn't there shopping for binoc's but made a fly-by since I was there. The options are starting to clear up.

I am not sure a high power set is what I am after. We have a turn in our lake that is right about 2 miles out and if it is clear I can see boats out there with my eyes. Sometimes we get bears and other 4 legged creatures swimming across that same water. I'd just like to be able to see out there better.

A family member is going to lend me a set. I don't know what they are/what specs yet, but that will be at least some kind of base-line that I can use out and about vs. inside in a well-lit store.

 

[MTboatguy]

Like was said, before you make a choice, you need to get them in your hands and see if they work for you, I know I have purchase mail order before and been totally disappointed when they arrived. Now I always find a shop that I can actually put them in my hand, take them outside in natural light and look through them, some of these optics are a big investment and they need to be up to par with you eyes, your face and your expectations and don't worry about name brands, don't get me wrong, they are good optics and always have been, but I have been very pleasantly surprised with some of the new imports that started arriving on our shores after the break up on the Soviet Union, some of those eastern block companies that you have never heard of make so damn good glass, so try them all and make the choice that pleases you, despite the name on the glass. I own glass make by all of the big name companies, Nikon, Zeiss, Pentax, Swarovski and a host of others, but the pair I use the most is a variable range bino, that was made in the Czech republic, they were pretty reasonable and have held up great, clear, clean and for what they are pretty light weight, they are one of the companies that used to supply the Soviet Military, good binos!

 

[kenmyfam]

Hope the search goes well. Remember to look through the small end

 

[gm280]

Hope the search goes well. Remember to look through the small end

Kenny, that really depends on if he wants to see things close up or far away... :facepalm:

 

[dwco5051]

Not knowing how much you would like to spend may make my suggestion out of range but here goes;

Buy a cheap spotting scope or a set of inexpensive binoculars for the range to spot targets.

Spend a whole lot more for a set of 14x40 gyro-stabilized binoculars for on the boat. Years ago I used to do some airborn surveillance with a set of state issued glasses that cost more than the truck I owned then but I know they have come down a lot in price. They are still expensive but would suit your needs well.

 

[MTboatguy]

Looking through the small end and the big end will help you determine the exit pupil, it is a waste of money to buy a set of binos, that have a bigger exit pupil on them than you need. Asking what the exit pupil of the binos are is one of the most important questions you can ask.

 

[gm280]

Looking through the small end and the big end will help you determine the exit pupil, it is a waste of money to buy a set of binos, that have a bigger exit pupil on them than you need. Asking what the exit pupil of the binos are is one of the most important questions you can ask.

MT, The exit light shaft size has to be at least 5mm or larger IF you want to use them in the late evening early morning situations. 5mm is about the average pupil size of the human eye at maximum dilation which occurs in low light situations. So you need at least that. And as both the objective lens size decreases and the power range increases that light shaft changes accordingly. A rule of thumb is objective lens diameter in mm's divided by the power range yields exiting light shaft. If that doesn't yield at lease 5mm or larger, you will get a dimming effect during low light situations. Example, you have a 50mm objective lens with a 6 power setting, that yields a little over 8mm. However, push the power range to 12 and that yields a little over 4mm...not good. You will actually see better with the naked eye with those settings. JMHO!

 

[MTboatguy]

gm280, I am well aware of that, optics use was a big part of my time in the field when I was in the Army and then I spent many years as a photographer with many awards to my credit, I am well versed in good optics, which is why I have so many different types of them, we were able to buy them quite a bit less expensive overseas than you will ever see here in the states.

If you want the best bang for your buck, you really need to pay attention to the little details that make glass better for the user.

As I said, earlier, if you want to get your best value that will work for you, then get out and get them in your hands and don't just look through them in the store, you need to get them outside and look through them in natural light, that way you can see what works best for you.

 

[gm280]

gm280, I am well aware of that, optics use was a big part of my time in the field when I was in the Army and then I spent many years as a photographer with many awards to my credit, I am well versed in good optics, which is why I have so many different types of them, we were able to buy them quite a bit less expensive overseas than you will ever see here in the states.

If you want the best bang for your buck, you really need to pay attention to the little details that make glass better for the user.

As I said, earlier, if you want to get your best value that will work for you, then get out and get them in your hands and don't just look through them in the store, you need to get them outside and look through them in natural light, that way you can see what works best for you.

MTboatguy, I didn't post my comment to dispute you by any means. I actually had no idea what you or anybody else really knows about optic design and such. So please don't take my comment as anything but additional info. Please don't take it as a disgruntle comment against you. That was not my intentions. I was merely posting how optics works and offering a bit of insight to buying products to help folks out... I honestly respect your comments and opinions on these forums. :sorry:

 

[MTboatguy]

gm280,

No, I am fine no offense at all taken! didn't mean to sound like I did, sorry

 

[KC8QVO]

Not knowing how much you would like to spend may make my suggestion out of range but here goes;

Buy a cheap spotting scope or a set of inexpensive binoculars for the range to spot targets.

Spend a whole lot more for a set of 14x40 gyro-stabilized binoculars for on the boat. Years ago I used to do some airborn surveillance with a set of state issued glasses that cost more than the truck I owned then but I know they have come down a lot in price. They are still expensive but would suit your needs well.

Good info. I will look through some options. You bring up a good point, though. Range use may not require much for "quality", just the ability to enlarge a target. To that point I may be able to get a suitable set testing them out at the store with a target at the other side of the building. As far as power goes - generally speaking it sounds like 10x is about the line for conventional binoculars and being able to hold them without shaking too much. If I backed off that to about 7 or 8 would that be a good starting point to compare with? I suppose field of view and magnification of the target is going to be a balancing act. I don't want the field of view at the target so narrow that I can't find it, or when I do it skips past too fast and I can't hold it.

MT, The exit light shaft size has to be at least 5mm or larger IF you want to use them in the late evening early morning situations. 5mm is about the average pupil size of the human eye at maximum dilation which occurs in low light situations. So you need at least that. And as both the objective lens size decreases and the power range increases that light shaft changes accordingly. A rule of thumb is objective lens diameter in mm's divided by the power range yields exiting light shaft. If that doesn't yield at lease 5mm or larger, you will get a dimming effect during low light situations. Example, you have a 50mm objective lens with a 6 power setting, that yields a little over 8mm. However, push the power range to 12 and that yields a little over 4mm...not good. You will actually see better with the naked eye with those settings. JMHO!

For someone that knows as little as I do on the subject this is a great explanation. Thanks for the thought in spelling it out. It makes sense.

 

[dingbat]

7 x 50 for boating unless stabilized. Hard enough trying to find a target on the water with 7 x 50. Stronger, almost impossible

 

[KC8QVO]

I wasn't thinking to much in the way of using them on the water, but rather from the cabin. A range set might suffice for boating, though. Lots to consider.

 

[KC8QVO]

Old thread, I know.. I was at a store last night looking at some binoculars. Vortex was the brand that was recommended. The explanation was they were better quality than, say, Nikon which were on display and of which I inquired about as well. For the price they seem reasonable. 10-12x or so models I looked at were sub-$300, 15x56 was about $550. The 15x was a bit more jittery than the 12x. This was just inside.

I got a lead on an old pair of binocs that might be a freebie set. I don't know much about them, but from who I talked to about them they work great for the range - thats most of what they were used for anyway.

I may try to get a mid-upper magnification range set of binocs and see how they do. It might be more advantageous to get a spotting scope for anything long-range - price-wise and stability-wise.