banshee transom and likely stringers

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

ok that stuff makes sense when i saw epoxy i had fiberglass resin in my head not 5 minute epoxy. i tend to over think things and sometimes don't think straight at all

WOG i was reading GT1000000 restoration thread, it was a couple years ago and you had mentioned you like pl premium to bed the stringers in because of its flexibility when cured. Do you still feel that way or is pb a better choice.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Nope, I have since recanted that way of thinking. The PL creates more problems than it's worth IMHO. It takes up to 72hrs to fully cure, Resin and glass does NOT like to stick to it and it slows down the rebuild. I recommend PB all the way now.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

well another update bought some grinding disks and a backer pad for the grinder and planned on starting to grind last night. When i got out to the boat i tried the backer pad on my grinder and wouldn't ya know it would fit. So i thought of a trick we do in the shop with our air grinders and we put two or three disks together so they don't flex and you don't ruin good backer pads. i didn't want to use new ones so i thought ill try putting the disk right over the solid metal disk. THAT worked AWESOME no give when you get into a thick spot just worked perfectly. Feel free to use that trick next any of you try grinding. So i started into the grinding process and was moving along quite nicely and all of a sudden i go over a real thick spot and i see sparks. hit it again and sure enough i wasn't seeing things there was sparks. im thinking why did they put metal in the fiber glass. turns out it was a nail likely from when they tacked the deck into place it was bedded into peanut butter. Amazing what you will find when you restore something lol. Anyways i did about 3 to 3 and half hours last night and i got one length of one side and about a 1/4 of the side of a stringer ground down. Didnt look like much at first but im happy with the amount of time it took and how much was done. heres some pics


not sure if you tell from these pics where i ground but im hoping i ground deep enough i basically ground til i saw the criss cross pattern of biax fiberglass i was mostly grinding out csm and peanut butter. WOW the pb was thick in alot of spots

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

heres a couple more pics they arnt very good taking with my cell phone

towards the back and front of the boat the glass to seemed to get real thin so i think im going to try grinding those areas with my flapper disks. hopefully a little slower material removal and less chance of a goof up. the grooves are going to be another challenge.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Since you'rein the middle of a LOT of grinding you might find this helpful to handle all the dust. The pics and description should allow you to understand how to make the box.

(Click the pic to download and view the PDF File)
View attachment Shop Vac Dust Box.pdf

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Thanks WOG if dust seemed to be an issue i would definitely construct that fine home made dust collector. You guys that think of these things just amaze me. right now the dust situation is actually pretty tame. i figured it would be worse. My buddies garage has a wood stove in it and beside the wood stove is an old furnace blower. So i started grinding and dust was kicking up and flying all over. So we opened the garage door and turned on the blower well now 90% of the dust stays in the boat and the rest seems to get sucked right out the door. Obviously some does get in the rest of the garage. but not nearly as much as i thought. when im done grinding i usually sweep or vacuum the dust in the boat out.

You know too bad one couldn't use that dust as thickener man is there ever alot especially when your grinding down peanut butter. HMMM so what would stop someone from sifting the dust and using it lol.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Put my first order of fiberglass supplies my buddies brother lives 20 minutes away from noahs and offered to pickup supplies and bring em down when hes coming for a visit. so im getting my first order in a couple weeks yeee haa. 5 gallons of resin, 500 ml of hardener, 20 yards of csm, acetone, a finned roller and some graduated containers and lids and mixing cups

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

using dust at filler is not a good idea due to the fact that it has MEKP in it. This could screw up the chemical properties of the new mix. Not to say it hasn't been done but since Cabosil is SOOOOOOO cheap I just don't see the need to run the risk.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

haha i wasnt planning on using it but i figured someone would give an answer as too why its not used lol

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

spent a good 6 hours grinding on the boat and got about 3/4 of the lower rear done and almost all the loose glass pulled off the starboard side and ready to begin grinding the starboard side

then onto the very middle and the transom itself whats the best way to remove the layer of plywood that stuck to the transom just use the grinder or is there something else.

didn't have a chance for pics today but will get some soon

In ones opinion when im grinding what does good glass mean

is it down to hull or just past chop strand and if there's peanut butter and its solid and thick and stuck extremely well is that good enough

only reason im asking is right at the transom the peanut butter is really thick and stuck solid and not sure if i need to get past that and down to the hull. im just afraid that if i grind to much the hull is going to pretty thin.

ill post pics of the areas that im concerned with when i get back out and get some taken.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Howdy banshee,
Just caught your resto after looking for it when you posted on my thread...
First off, thanks for dropping by and the nice compliment...
I too, really like the lines of these type of boats...they definitely look fast, just sitting there...
You are doing a great job so far and have some of the best guys on the forum helping you out.
I would love to come aboard and see you bring this Banshee back to better than new condition.
As to your question about how far to grind...
As long as it is PB and not just globs of resin, and it seems in good shape, then by all means you can leave it...the way to tell is the resin without the fibers in it looks almost clear with no fibers on the surface, the PB has the fibers in it when you sand it...
Grinding to "good" glass or "fresh" glass is basically just removing the top most layer of resin that is coating good fiberglass to "open up" the pores, so the new resin soaked cloth can get a solid mechanical bond with it...
A good test is to grind an area, remove the dust and wipe it down with some Acetone...if it turns clear/transparent while wet and the underlying glass looks solid, meaning no cracks, voids or air pockets, then you are good to go..
To remove what is left of the transom, you can use whatever means you have at your disposal to make it happen...
Grinding, sanding, chiseling, scraping...just be careful when you get close to the outer skin of the hull so as not to break through...
Best of luck and Have Fun!
GT1M

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

I find it easiest to use a circular saw with the depth set just shy of the outer skin and cut a 1" grid in the transom wood. After this is done it's fairly easy to take a wide 2" wood chisel and chisel off the wood and the thin layer of wood that's left is easily ground off using a grinder with a backup pad and 24 grit resin coated disc.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

gt thanks for the advice
it amazes me everytime i get so much help on here hopefully someday i will be able to help some other new adventurer.

anyways back to grinding the stuff im calling peanut butter doesn't have fibers in it and its literally the color of peanut butter maybe a little lighter. so i believe its peanut butter.

ive peeled off layers of csm thruout the hull and ground down to what i believe is the hull itself has a specific pattern to it post 103 and 104 have pics of the glass im grinding to. Using a resin backed 24 or 36 grit grinding disk the glass feels pretty smooth as well, how rough should it be get the good mechanical bond.like we arnt talking deep grooves right.

WOG the use of the circular saw really scares the HE double hockey sticks outta me. the layer of ply really isnt that thick looking and the outer skin is just as thin looking. ill have to post pics.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Yeah pics would help. I'm talking about the full 1 1/2" thickness of the wood core of the transom. If you already have the majority of that torn/ripped off then the saw is not a good idea. You should just use the grinder and discs.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

heres a couple pics of the transom and the thickness
2nd pic is the thickness im dealing with so yeah grinder is gonna be the way

heres a before pic
and an after pic and grinding isnt even done yet


According to the time stamp of the first pics i took it was sept 28th when i started tear down and its october 22 just shy of a month. i can see why marine repairs places charge so much to do this sort of job. i called a local marine repair shop and inquired what a transom replace would cost ballpark and they said minimum 3000. so anyone wanting to keep there boat and repair it much cheaper DIY is the only way to go

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

and the last pic after a last nights grinding

this pic kinda shows the spot near the transom that is so thick (the circles area) and it doesn't have any fibers in it just looks like it thickened and stuck extremely well

 

[GT1000000]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Great progress on the grind out...!
Dusty, sweaty, nasty and itchy, but its the biggest step to beginning put back...:thumb:

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

thanks gt and yes dusty and nasty but im luck the sweaty isn't an issue now as the majority of the time im grinding at night and the temp cools off to a nice 10 degrees or so and buy the time i get 2 shirts and my tyvek suit on its comfortable. as far as itchy the suit and goggles and respirator are god cents. hardly any itch what so ever, first night i did some simple cutting of one piece of fiberglass and had short sleve shirt and man the itch i learned my lesson in a hurry that night. Best thing i find for itch is cold water then soap and cold water hot water just seems to make it worse

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

If you coat yourself with Baby Powder Prior to suiting up it will really help with the itch as well. Helps seal the skin pores. I would grind that heavy resin spot just a bit and then move on. It'll be fine. Transom is for sure a Grinder job. Make sure to change your Respirator Filters if you ever smell a hint of resin vapor.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

yeah i looked at the filters last night and they were quite packed with dust so i think im in store for a new set of filters. funny thing with the mask i have and the replacement filters theres only like 2 dollars difference between a mask with filters and two new filters by themselves.