banshee transom and likely stringers

banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

would you put any glass over it or is that just a waste
 

banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

WOG on your clamps for the transom what size bolts did you use from the picture they look like 3/4. i am getting some threaded rod tommorow to build these
 

Woodonglass

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

First off, I would for sure cover the foam on the sides of the hull with a waxed coating of CSM and resin to make sure it was waterproofed.

I used 1/2" bolts 12" long to make my clamps.
 

banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

WOG on your clamps and the drawing you have im a little confused whats the epoxy in the one picture for.

the other picture you have the clamps installed on the boat do you have the bolt thru the first 2x4 with washer then between the two 2x4 you a washer a nut and another nut the on last 2x4 you have a washer and nut. from the pic it kinda looks like there two nuts between the top of the 2x4 and one in between the bottom part.sorry for the crude drawing but is this more or less what they look like when built
white is 2x4
grey are the bolts
red are washers
grey are nuts
feel free to butcher my drawing so i understand how i build em
wog clamps1.JPG
when im using them to clamp on the transom am i holding the inside nut on the top to spread it open then tightening the bottom bolt to clamp it down hard.
 
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banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

i made a little more progress last night. we removed the entire front ski locker and rest of deck cleaned out the stringers. surprisingly the center stringer came out in almost one sopping very fragile piece. im going to let it dry out and hopefully be able to use a template. The ski locker is still in good shape so im planning on reusing it just making sure its well glassed and tabbed in. The only part that was rotten on it was the two pieces of that made the box at the front and they were 2x2 about 6 inches long.
IMG_20131006_175618.jpg

IMG_20131006_175559.jpg

in the first pic the fiberglass left over on the outside of the center stringer looked like the back end of the stringer was wider than the front half. Would they have built it that way especially because the stringer ends there and my anchor for the ski pole was in that area.

i cant remember how wide my anchor is but im thinking that maybe 3/4 stringers all the way down then last two or three feet put another 3/4 in board on each side making over all thickness 2 /1/4 and that should give enough area to screw my anchor down into more than just the deck.

Im also planning on running the outside stringers all the way to transom instead of part way. this is too serve two purposes it will allow me to tab the transom to them as well as give me a way to have a removable hatch to get to the bilge area and i can keep my gas tank in the center battery on the port side and hydraulic pump on the starboard. much like the pic i posted earlier. it cleans the back of the boat up before it was not really all that functional.

ill post a drawing of what im planning and you guys can tell me im crazy or on the money ect. thanks again for listening and most of all having patience with this noob really appreciate it
 
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banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

stringers.jpg

this is the idea i have for stringers the two outer one right to the transom
the middle one beefed up for ski pole anchor
and the extra one across the back side to side so ihave a lip to be able to rest the removable cover on
the very back of the removable cover will be cut out large enough to allow my automatic float switch to move unrestricted and the outlet hose to exit the bilge area and still be able to remove the cover without disconnecting the hose. the removable cover will also allow me to gain access to the transom plug as well.

removable cover.jpg
 

Woodonglass

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

WOG on your clamps and the drawing you have im a little confused whats the epoxy in the one picture for.

the other picture you have the clamps installed on the boat do you have the bolt thru the first 2x4 with washer then between the two 2x4 you a washer a nut and another nut the on last 2x4 you have a washer and nut. from the pic it kinda looks like there two nuts between the top of the 2x4 and one in between the bottom part.sorry for the crude drawing but is this more or less what they look like when built
white is 2x4
grey are the bolts
red are washers
grey are nuts
feel free to butcher my drawing so i understand how i build em
View attachment 214332
when im using them to clamp on the transom am i holding the inside nut on the top to spread it open then tightening the bottom bolt to clamp it down hard.

Hopefully this pic will make more sense. To operate the clamps, you tighten the bottom bolt until the clamp is just barely snug on the top of the transom then you LOOSEN the top bolt which will in effect tighten the clamp on the lower section of the transom. When it starts to get snug on the lower section you should then tighten both bolts equally. Do NOT overtighten. Just enuf to get the PB to start to squeeze out around all sides and you're good to go.

Hope this helps.:D


Clamps.jpg
 

banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

ok that makes more sense ill have to build the clamps then practice with them so i know im doing it right before ever apply the pb.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

go to Lowe's and check out these clamps. Same operating principle.

327587.jpg
 

banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

wog with your clamps does it matter how long the 2x4s are or the spacing between the bolts. yours look pretty long

also do you think 3/4 plywood is suitable for the stringers or should i be beefing them up a little while i have the chance.
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

My clamps now are 4 ft long. The originals were Way to big. I have a 20" transom. My spacing on the bolt is 18" and the top bolt is 2 1/2" in from the top. Hope that helps.
If your stringers are more than 8 ft long then I'd use 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood laminated together to make them to length which would give you 1" stringers and with the resin and glass you'll end up with about 1 1/8" when you're finished.
 

bajaunderground

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Nice work banshee....you're in excellent hands with WOG...his help is invaluable on rebuilds, upholstery and painting!

I'm somewhat jealous of you guys that are willing to tear into a boat in such a manner! No way would I do that much work...I have OCD and that level of dedication would cost me my family, house and all my savings...I'd never be able to focus on other things until that was splashed! I literally stayed up at night for my simple engine replacement...

I'll be watching. BTW, that's a cool little boat!

~Brett
 

banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

baja thanks i think its cool as well and pulls the kids extremly well on a tube. I had it out on labour day weekend for the first tim and i hit almost 40 mph. i could likely squeeze a little more outta her but thats plenty fast enough for the size lake we are on. Only reason im tearing her down and rebuilding is i had 2300 into it with purchase then parts and didnt even have in the water yet. so i know it wont increae the value but im hoping it will maintain the value and honestly we can you get a cool lookin boat with that size motor for 3000 to 3500. Trust me i looked and anything you do find also has the same problems if not more.
 

banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

well i haven't updated in a while managed to get 2x4s for clamps designed by wog and started building them. My friend and i built one and we played with it for an hour trying to figure out how to work it and get used to using it. What a performance that was lol we took to long to set them up and clamp the mock up wood that the peanut butter would have hardened three time overs before we even turn the bolt lol. also went out on a mission Saturday to find the proper glue lowes had a small bottle and slightly bigger bottle but not nearly enough for what i need. They could get the gallon (3.78 liters) bottle so i had to go hunting and home hardware has the gallon but may not be in stock. First home hardware i went to they said they can order it and it would be here in a week. 39.99 for the jug. I asked the guy if he could check the other local stores and he said he checked the ones he owns and they didn't have it either. there was one more home hardware that he couldn't check but he phoned them and they that they have two. SCORE i went right down there and picked it up and low and behold the bottle was 37.99. two dollars cheaper. So even thou i haven't done anything to the boat physically in a bit i didn't get some stuff accomplished.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Hopefully you figured out the clamps. Basically you Tighten the lower bolt until it's just snug on the upper part of the transom. You then Loosen the Upper Bolt which will Close the lower portion of the clamp and make it squeeze the lower section of the transom. Once it's snug you then begin to tighten the lower bolt and loosen the upper bolt equal amounts to put equal amounts of clamping pressure across the transom.
 

banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

ok WOG so in post 87 you said i need to tighten both bolts equally then in the previous post you said tighten the lower and loosen the upper in equal amounts. we got to tired the other night to fully understand how they worked so maybe we were doing it wrong lol :confused: either way im sure it will become clear sooner or later.

the epoxy you used for the nuts was it fiberglass resin or something else. i have some fiberglass resin with hardener at work from a previous job someone did and thought i could use that. its free which is my favorite word lol

i was also going to use these clamps when im gluing the two pieces of the transom together might as well im gonna have them made
 
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banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

kinda figured out a very rough guess as to how much csm and 1708 1808 what ever its called north of the border lol

csm approx 19 yards (50 inches wide sold in yards) approx 82.00

1708(1808) 16 sq yards sold with mat and 50 inches wide approx 185.00 (figured i would try and use the 1708 for tabbing as well just cut it up but if its not such a good idea then back to the drawing board.

if one of you fine gents would like to give me a guess as to how much resin i would need for this much glass it would make me feel better to blame someone else when i run out lmao JUST KIDDIN. a rough idea would be appreciated thou just so i can wrap my head around a dollar figure. ideally it would be perfect if i was to figure out how much stuff i need and make one trip. but i know how that doesn't ever happen especially when a nubbie is glassing for the first time.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

EPOXY resin for WOG clamp nuts NOT poly resin
 

banshee owner

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

so i have to buy epoxy resin poly wont work ehh what about something else
 

Woodonglass

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Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

You don't need much epoxy for the Clamp nuts. Go to the Hardware store and buy some to the 5 Minute stuff. It's all you need... Less than $10 bucks
251-6701Epoxy-QuickSet5min1395391.jpg


The clamp info is ALL in the original Link..."Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"
 
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