Alpha 1 Off for the first time - What to look for

[dmanmtl]

In a previous thread I asked for some advice on removing my drive for the first time (by me). The boat is a 2003 Bayliner 175 and the drive is an Alpha 1 Gen 2, 2.0 ratio connected to a 3.0L engine.

The drive came off easily - the former owner used to remove it every winter to keep it from getting stolen from the storage yard - apparently this happens a lot aroudn here.

With the drive off I am able to see the Gimbal Bearing - it looks pristeen and turns very smoothly, there are no signs of water intrusion in the bellows - there was a little pile of grease near the bearing where I probably over greased it. I wiped it down and it looks fine. What else should I be looking for in there?

Someone mentioned that I should grease the U joints before re-installing but they don't seem to have any grease fittings - Any suggestions on this?. They are also in what looks like perfect shape - no rust, move smoothly etc.

When it is time to reinstall, I assume I should change the O ring for the water inlet and the main gasket...anything else? What about the two O rings on the drive shaft?

Thanks in advance for all your great advice...

D

 

[alldodge]

In a previous thread I asked for some advice on removing my drive for the first time (by me). The boat is a 2003 Bayliner 175 and the drive is an Alpha 1 Gen 2, 2.0 ratio connected to a 3.0L engine.

The drive came off easily - the former owner used to remove it every winter to keep it from getting stolen from the storage yard - apparently this happens a lot aroudn here.

With the drive off I am able to see the Gimbal Bearing - it looks pristeen and turns very smoothly, there are no signs of water intrusion in the bellows - there was a little pile of grease near the bearing where I probably over greased it. I wiped it down and it looks fine. What else should I be looking for in there?

Look at the boots for any cracking and the clamps are snug and show no signs of rust.

Someone mentioned that I should grease the U joints before re-installing but they don't seem to have any grease fittings - Any suggestions on this?. They are also in what looks like perfect shape - no rust, move smoothly etc.

Move them around and check for play and they move easy and no signs of grit. If they are good, then no need to do anything. Bearings come in two types, sealed and non-sealed. The sealed bearings have a better seal to help keep grease in and foreign material (water) out. Bearings with non-sealed bearings can be greased and the seal allows for old grease to be pushed out. Allowing greased out also will allow water in easier. It's a trade off. They now are making gimbal bearings which can not be greased from the fitting.

When it is time to reinstall, I assume I should change the O ring for the water inlet and the main gasket...anything else? What about the two O rings on the drive shaft?

Thanks in advance for all your great advice...

Yes replace the o-ring on the drive but don't worry about the ones on the shaft unless they look bad. Your new drive seal kit is part No 27-94996Q2 and comes with a large and smaller o-ring and a gasket (items 2, 3 and 4)
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...c=BELL+HOUSING

 

[thumpar]

Make sure you put some spline grease on the splines of the shaft before you install.

 

[NHGuy]

But don't grease the tip, only the splined sides of the shaft. If you grease the end it creates an air seal pocket in the coupler and makes it hard to install the drive the last inch or two.

 

[UncleWillie]

Before you put it back on in the Spring, be sure to check the Engine Coupler Alignment.
You will need a special tool to do this. It is available many places including ebay.
After you reinstall the drive, the coupler will need 5-10 pumps of spline grease pumped into it.

If you don't know where to look, finding the Zerk fitting can be a chore the first time,
You will need to bump the starter a few times to rotate the fitting to near the 2 o'clock position, looking aft.
Once you find it mark the pulley on the front of the engine to make it easier to position next year.

The drive seal kit, includes the big gasket and all the o-rings need for the drive plus the drive shaft.

 

[superbenk]

Getting the drive back on can be tricky without a few tricks. First get the $4 plastic shift cable holder tool to keep it in place while you slide the drive on (2nd helper may suffice, but I recommend the little tool). Make sure the throttle is in the forward gear position so the shifter rod is pointing straight forward or you'll never get the drive on. Make sure the drive is also in forward gear (slot should be straight front & back). As you're sliding the drive on you may need to rotate the prop to rotate the drive shaft and line up the splines. Don't force it! Finally, make sure the water passage o-ring stays in place by using a touch of tacky gasket maker, rubber cement or thick grease. If it shifts you'll get water in the shift cable chamber & up your shift cable which could lead to corrosion & failure.

 

[dmanmtl]

Guys - So much great advice - Thanks so much- I am a little daunted by the alignment and greasing of couple part of this process so I will have to research that a bit more. I assume that thsi grease fitting is somewhere behind the engine? I dpn't have much room at all back there...

Also what can cause the engine to get out of alignment?

D

 

[bspeth]

Start a new thread,but the spline in the picture need to be rotate clockwise and the prop shaft chaulked ccw.If the units wont go together then turn the prop to line up the splines in the gear shaft.

 

[Fishermark]

Greasing the splines does the same thing as the coupler zerk. Unnecessary to use the zerk if you simply apply grease to the splines and take off the outdrive for annual maintenance.

The alignment can get off for a multitude of reasons... it is a good idea to have the tool and check the alignment every time you have the drive off. The alignment is easy to adjust on the 3 liters. It is a good idea to check the condition of the front mount adjusting bolt and nut - especially if you boat in salt water. It can get corroded up and hard to adjust. Then you have to take the entire mount off and free it up. But from the sound of things, I'm guessing your boat is already well maintained.

 

[Fishermark]

Oh - and I second the idea of using the little plastic tool that holds the shift slide. One less thing to hold onto and keep in place when doing it by yourself. Especially when you don't do it everyday. I went for years without it, now I don't know how I got along without it! The orange thing pictured here:

 

[Blueghost924]

When you said orange thing, my eyes went to the bungee cord at first! :lol: