Alignment tool wont go in? Bad coupler?

[Scott Ransom]

Hello all, long time lerker, first question. I am busy doing fall maintenance to our first boat, i have pulled the drive (was difficult to come off) and I am attempting to perform an alignment check. The issue is the alignment tool will not go in to the splines at all, i have cleaned the coupler with a wire brush and soapy water and got most of the old grease out, will with no change. I also bought a 1" wooden dowel (diameter 1.005") and tried to fit it in the coupler thinking the alignment was way off, and found that the coupler splines were leaving grooves in the wood. Is this a sign of a bad coupler? Thanks for any help or suggestions you can provide.

1989 Power Play XLT-185, 350 mag alpha one.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Most cases of hard drive removal is due to collapsed rear motor mounts

 

[Scott Ransom]

Thanks for such a quick reply, what does a "collapsed" rear mount look like. I did a search and couldn't a good example or good/bad.

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[Bt Doctur]

I`ll try to measure the distance of "C" in the first pic for reference. When the mount fails the motor squats down on the fibre washers.

 

[Scott Ransom]

I am assuming i am looking for a gap between the fiber washer and the steel part of the engine, correct? The port side shows a small gap, i can fit a knife in it, starboard the engine mount sits directly on the fiber washer.

edit: sorry didnt see your last post prior to posting this.

 

[Bt Doctur]

measuring from the base of the housing to the bottom of the large washer is 9/16 .
"D" to "B" in the first pic
The gap between the housing must be the same. If not a mount has collapsed

 

[Scott Ransom]

9/16 port, 11/16 starboard, good call. Looks like the bushing is pressed into the bell housing? Engine needs to be pulled to perform?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Yes it needs to be lifted I burn the old mount out, You might be able to press it out as a unit by using the correct size drift.
remove the inner sleeve, clean the hole, press in a new mount untill seated.
I made this to draw the bushing in

Where are you located?

 

[Scott Ransom]

Thanks, what do you mean by burn it out? I live in West Michigan.

 

[Bt Doctur]

I melt the inner sleeve away from the rubber, Then heat and burn some of the remaining rubber, then supporting the housing base ,use a metric socket to drive the remaining sleeve and rubber from the housing.
That gold ring goes in first, then the new bushing. Driving the ring down pushes the bushing out of the housing

 

[Bt Doctur]

http://www.amarket.com/helpmts.htm

 

[Scott Ransom]

Thank you so much for your help, i have borrowed a hoist and strarted unhooking stuff, unfortunately i have to work all weekend. I plan on replacing the coupler while I am in there since the teeth look quite pointed, any advice on which one I would need. From what i can find it is below, however mine doesn't look like this with the long shield coming off the center, does that make it greasable? [h=1]Sierra 18-2175 Engine Coupler Kit Replaces 18643A[/h]

 

[bruceb58]

Out of curiosity, how much are you saving going non OEM? Personally, I would pay the extra money for the OEM part.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser-N...-/180614086009

 

[alldodge]

I'm finding your engine here
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/350-mag-alpha-gm-350-v-8-1987-1995-0b

and your coupler being here
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31780/1014/270

Showing 2 different numbers for the tri-angle ones 18643A5 (Sierra 18-2323) and A7 (Sierra 18-2175) which also includes yoke
Showing one circular one 8M0098795 but this is for a bravo coupler and you have an Alpha

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31780/1014/270

The one your showing is the short shaft outdrive. This can be used if this is the on now and has not been changed

 

[Scott Ransom]

Thanks all, I really didn't look for OEM/non thanks for the tip, the OEM one is only about ~30-40 more, what is the new yoke needed for?

 

[Bt Doctur]

In most cases the input shaft will show some wear and if the coupler splines look pointed then there worn too. Not replacing them as a unit can cause premature wear of the new coupler
Dont forget to shift into full fwd and remove the drive first. Them remove the 4 lags from the front mounts. You need to do this to make sure you can remove the top nut and then loosen the bottom nut. Just incase the alignemnt changes moving the motor around.

 

[Scott Ransom]

Ok, i am gathering my stuff to perform this next week, so if i am understanding your correct it is best to pull the entire front engine mount? From where the mount attaches to the fiberglass?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Yes, remove the lags and pull as attached.to the engine. Main reason is to be able to loosen the nuts for the re-alignment. The bottom nuts control the height
and sometimes an open end wrench cut shorter is needed. or a shortened adj wrench.
Second reason is to inspect the stringers for any rot.With the engine removed take a long thin screwdriver and drive it into the holes at various angles. Your looking for soft spots. If you do find a soft spot, do a test drill with a 1/4 bit going in 4 inches. Black peatmoss looking stuff is rotted wood.Dont panic if you find it, stringer repair is not rocket science, just labor intensive and knowing how to fiberglass.

 

[Scott Ransom]

One more question, I have everything unhooked with the exception of the power steering. Is it easier to unhook the powersteering hoses? Or take the assembly off of the transom plate? My concern is if I take the hoses off, a bunch of fluid come out, and how do I bleed it when I am done? Thanks again for all your help.