85 hp Force float bowl springs

[redstrat]

After mentioning to a friend that I am somewhat familiar with these motors, the boat now rests in my yard and has become my project. We have good compression and spark. Carbs are a mess. Someone tried to silicone the bowls on. I have the carbs apart and noticed that there are no springs attached to the floats as pictured in the manual. The motor is a 1988. Should I be looking for new springs along with rebuilt kits? Thanks

 

[Frank Acampora]

Multiple carb models were used--some with helper springs and some without. So don't worry about missing springs. Even the carbs with springs will work without them The bowls are sealed with cork gaskets. If they are not broken I typically re-use them. I take the bowl on a relatively hard surface (end grain 2 x 4) and tap out the bottom just a little to deform it out. Then when the bowl is attached the rim seats very securely on the gasket. Remember that there is a gasket inside and outside the bowl at the brass mounting nut. Please do not over-tighten this nut.

Unless really corroded, carbs almost never need rebuilding If the inlet needle and seat are not worn, then a good cleaning is usually all they need.

 

[redstrat]

Thanks Frank, I cleaned out as much silicone as I could, some still sticking to the gaskets, and put it all back together. The #3 carb had a stripped bolt on the bowl. I cleaned up the threads and made a new short bolt for the repair. This carb also had a different float needle with a deformed rubber tip. I straightened it out as best I could. When I first primed the system fuel shot out the #3 overflow port, but then it seemed to seal properly. With the system primed all three bowls are dripping fuel. The motor will sputter with a couple of backfires but will not stay running. I did go through a link/sync and checked for a sheared key. My thinking is that #3 carb is is dumping fuel into the crank. I will try deforming the bowls a bit but I'm thinking the silicone is buggering up the sealing surfaces.

 

[Frank Acampora]

First off, be absolutely certain that the new bolt you made does NOT obstruct the brass high speed jet in the side of the carb.. Of course, someone worked on this engine before you and left you a mess to clean up. assume nothing! Take off the bowls again and examine the high speed jets. Check that all three carbs are the same model (there may be slight differences in the suffix) and check that all three jets are the same size. You may need a magnifying glass to see the stamped numbers. Get all three carbs correct before you try to start the engine.

 

[redstrat]

OK, being a teacher, the last couple of weeks have been hectic. Yesterday (first day of summer for me) I got back to the project. 2 carbs are WE18 2A and one is WE181A. All 3 high speed jets are 074. You were right about the magnifying glass. I decided to spring for a new float needle on carb #3 and new gaskets since they were not that expensive. I deformed the bowls as suggested. I also inspected the reeds with a light and everything seems OK. I also replaced the original fuel pump diaphragm (still had blue paint on the gasket). I also double checked my manufactured bowl bolt to make sure it was the proper length. After a linc/sync, timing at 28 degrees and needles at 1 1/8th turn, I tried starting her again. This time it primed without fuel coming out the overflow on carb #3 but immediately starts dripping fuel from all 3 carb bowls. She will fire right away when choked but will not stay running. About every third try it will backfire out the exhaust port spraying water out of my homemade test tank. The controls on this boat are very stiff and engaging high speed neutral is difficult. I suspect the idle may be set low. What do you guys think? Is there anything I'm overlooking? I'm trying to help I friend but this is beginning to cut into some precious boating time...