'85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

[dutt10]

1985 200hp seadrive. Recently rebuilt all carbs and replaced all my spark plugs (UL77V). Fires right and runs good with an occasional miss. I pulled the plugs to see how they looked and all were wet except the #1 which was completely dry. <br />Am I right to assume that the plugs should all be wet and I have a blockage in the carb that feeds the #1 cyl. If so where is the most likely place to find the blockage?<br /><br />Prior to rebuild I soaked each carb in "Chem-dip carb and parts cleaner" for 20-30 mins and rinsed off with water as per can instructions. Blew dry with compressed air, also blew out every orifice. Did I soak them long enough? Have read posts about soaking overnight. Is it okay to soak in this stuff overnight?<br /><br />TIA<br />Steve

 

[sparkroost]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

you could have an air leak. They should be wet. Did you blow from the throat into the little holes near the butterfly, with the low speed jet out?<br />That chem dip is some nasty stuff! if it get's on nylon, plastic, rubber it will ruin it. It will expand 600 times in size and be good for nothing. When I use that stuff I remove the throttle plates and all shafts. Upon re-assembly you have to "peen" over the ends of the screws so they won't back out and also make sure the butterflys are seated before locking the screws down.

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

Thanks Sparkroost, here is an update: pulled top carb tore it apart blew air through all orifices from both directions and made sure air came out where it should. <br /> Ran motor, same thing, top 2 plugs dry the rest wet. <br /><br />While the motor was running pulled the plug wire from #1 s/p, there was a noticable difference, so it is getting some fuel. <br />Tried squirting gas in the throat of the top carb until the motor started to bog down a bit, pulled the top 2 plugs, still dry.<br /><br />Swapped top and bottom carbs, ran motor, again same thing top 2 plugs dry, the rest wet. (Eliminated carb in my mind)<br /><br />Next step?<br />Fuel pumps not getting enough pressure to supply adaquate fuel to top carb? <br />Crankcase pressure leak?<br /><br />Keep in mind I am in the troubleshooting stages right now, the carbs will go back to original with new gaskets etc.<br /><br />By the way the motor runs okay, just afraid to run lean and burn up the motor.

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

^

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

Whats the compression?<br /><br />Is #1 dry and clean (like new)? Or is it dry and sooty? Any water drops?<br /><br />Good luck!

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

Compression is 90-95 on all 6 cyl. Going to try a decarb once I get it running right.<br /><br />The plugs are clean and dry like new, no water, no carbon, nothing. <br /><br />Also the #2 plug used to get a little wet, now it is staying clean and dry also.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

This is a shot in the dark -- has anything been changed on this block? Like the by-pass covers?<br /><br />What do you mean by "an occasional miss"? Does it "spit" or "sneeze" at idle?<br /><br />Good luck!

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

I had split the crankcase to get my crankshaft resplined back in Jan. 03. I have only had the boat out once since putting it back together and that was a 2 hour test ride. It ran good until I slowed down to idle in to the dock, then the overheat alarm went off. Just as it did on the last trip out before I split the case. The water pump had been replaced before the teast ride and now I have changed the T-stats. Then I started this battle.<br /><br />I just found the old plugs (autolite 2634)that had about 3 hours on them 5 were moist with carbon deposits, one was dry with a thin coat of black soot. I didn't think to look at them when changing over to champions.<br /><br />I did have one bypass cover off back in Jan but it was the one for the #6 cyl.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

What did you reseal the block and crankcase with?

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

Gel seal II, new o'rings and seals in the upper and lower heads also. The occasional miss would be like a spit, if thats less than a sneeze

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

At idle?

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

Yes sir, at idle. Sorry, missed that part. <br />Let me add that I am still not sure that the overheating problem is fixed, as I am still troubleshooting with the motor running on a hose. Am I correct in thinking that the lean running cyl., or two, can cause the hole motor to run hot? <br /><br />Admiral, While I have your attention; should I get water from the two outlet holes in the back of the leg while running on a hose, because I get none. Even in a tank very little comes out. The motor gets hot at idle pretty fast but I can hold my fingers on it for 6-7 seconds before it gets too uncomfortable. Without a “thermo-stick”? I can only guess that that is hot enough for the t-stats to open. I thought once the T-stats opened I would some spray out of those holes. I had Evenrudes (1970’s) before that had plenty of water spraying from these holes. <br />Also, I have 6-7 psi water pressure at idle.<br /><br />Don’t mean to run off on another tangent but this thing is driving me nuts! <br /><br />Thanks for your interest!

 

[Walker]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

That thing has twin fuel pumps right. Could be one of them is bad.

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

Yes it does, and thats what I'm hopeing for! I haven't touched them, yet! Maybe today.

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

^

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

OK - when its ideling and it misses or sneezes its because its drawing air from somewhere. You may have to remove the air silencer cover but you should be able to see a small puff from a carb throat or intake area or whereever the motor is drawing air. Pay close attention to the areas where the by-pass cover and the front half all meet.<br /><br />The thought here is that where its drawing air it could possibly be drawing air at higher rpm and therefore not enough fuel. If I read your posts correctly it did not miss or sneeze at idle before the crank repair.<br /><br />As for the overheating, have you changed the head gaskets and deflectors? The deflectors are 6 small pieces of hose (3 in each side) in the water passages. They deflect the water to keep it circulating. The hose will swell over time and stick out into the water passage and slow the water down or possibly block the flow of water.<br /><br />Let us know!

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

I will spray all powerhead seams with soapy water and check for any leaks tomorrow, got to work 2nd job tonight.<br /><br />As far as the overheating, it started the last trip before the crankshaft episode. I was running without an intake screen, since I owned the boat, 1yr. I replaced the screen, waterpump, housing and impeller etc. On my test run the overheat alarm went off about 30 seconds after coming off plane while idling in to the dock. During the test run there was very little water coming from the exhaust ports while idling or on plane. <br />Ran the motor without T-stats in a tank still not much water out the exhaust ports but motor ran cool. Pulled gearcase and T-stat cover, put garden hose up to the water inlet had flow up through t-stat holes. <br />Replaced T-stats. and rubber seal below it. Ran motor on a hose, no water through exhaust ports and motor gets hot fast. Removed heads found no obstruction, cleaned heads and area around cyl. replaced deflectors (old deflectors looked good) and head gaskets. Ran motor, same results. <br />Pulled power head ran water through powerhead from the rectangle water intake, water flowed through powerhead and out both L-shaped exhaust ports and circle hole. <br /><br />Question 1. This circle hole on the bottom of the powerhead is about the size of a nickel and water flows out of it and the L-shape holes. The powerhead base gasket has a hole about the size of a BB for this hole and the leg has a small channel that leads from under that hole to one of the L-shaped exhaust holes. Is this just a drain? The reason I ask is: after reinstalling the powerhead the 2nd time and running the motor I don’t get water out the exhaust ports, OR the 6 holes (3 each side) that are just above the cavitation plate on the gear case, also the leg gets real hot. I remind you that I have 6-7 PSI water pressure at idle and good tell-tail.<br /><br />Question 2. Where exactly does the water that flows through the exhaust ports and the 6 holes flow from? Right now all my water goes right out the prop and tell-tail.<br /><br />Question 3. Is there anything behind the exhaust cover on the powerhead that could be blocking the flow of water out the exhaust ports? <br /> I still have a feeling that something has blocked a water passage somewhere, but I have checked everything I know of. Except behind the exhaust cover.<br /> Sorry so long, but I’m tired of chasing my tail on this one.

 

[Solittle]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

Can't speak to a SeaDrive exhaust cover but I have had to troubleshoot smaller hot motors and found all kinds of crud behind the exhaust cover - especially salt water engines. A word of caution - I haven't had the problem myself but I have seen a number of posts here where the bolts broke - again salt water motors.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

I'm puzzled about why the horn comes on after you slow down. Are you sure its getting hot? If so it seems like the pump is losing its "prime". But it was doing this before you replaced the pump kit, right?<br /><br />When you replaced the crank did you have the pistons out?

 

[dutt10]

Re: '85 200hp seadrive with 1 dry sparkplug?

Good morning all.<br />Pulled the exhaust cover expecting to find some kind of obstruction, nothing, everything looked pretty clean. Bolts came out fairly easy, lucky! I am going to pull the powerhead again with the gearcase installed and see which water passages go where. I want to know which passage leads to the exhaust ports and zinc holes? (6 holes by the zinc) <br /><br />This motor was a manufacture rebuild installed by the local dealer 1 ¼ years before 1st overheat. It had 100-150 hrs on it when I pulled the crank. Pulled the crank to be resplined after the driveshaft got stuck in the crank. Because of the low hours I did not change bearings (no scaring or discoloration) or pull the pistons. Bearings and rod caps went back on same rods. <br /><br />Yes the 1st time it overheated was while idling, did fine while at rpm’s, overheated one more time on that fishing trip while idling. Now after replacing the waterpump housing impeller etc. it did the same thing (overheated at idle) on the test run. The fact that the pickup screen was none existent led me to believe that something got sucked up and obstructed a passage somewhere.<br /><br />As far as getting hot, I don’t have a thermo-stik or any other way to test the temp, but the fact that I am getting no water out of my exhaust ports or the zinc holes leads me to believe that extended running would lead to an overheat alarm, because somehow somewhere the water flow is just not right. Also, it does get too hot to keep my fingers on in less than a minute. <br /><br />One thing on the waterpump kit that confused me was on the instructions under a note that was sectioned off, it showed 2 extensions and a grommet for the water inlet tube. It said one was for a 20” and the other for a 25” model and had a different kit #. I am not sure exactly how long my shaft is or where to measure it on a seadrive. I know the top drive shaft itself is 30” long. This kit I bought had no extensions and there was no extension on the waterpump I pulled off. I measured the distance the housing would be sliding over the water inlet tube and it measured right. The tube slides into the rubber insert on the housing outlet. Looks like no extension would be required. I slid the housing itself over the tube it fits snug.<br /><br />With that in mind I do have quite a bit of water coming out of the gearcase for where the shifter shaft comes out. It used to and always had come out the leg/gearcase mating surface but I sealed that with silicon. <br /><br />Is there a model/serial# on the powerhead that tells you what year it is?