'83 V4 115hp WOT issue.

Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
3
Just purchased my first real boat (had a canoe before) and have been working on it and fishing with it with some mishaps and success. It is a 1984 Lund Tyee 5.5 with a '83 Evinrude 115hp, and a '88 Evinrude 20hp. someday I would like to re-power the boat, but right now I am trying to get the motors fixed up. My question is about the 115hp. After getting rid of the old gas and running a can of OMC tune up according to the instructions, replacing fuel lines due to a leak, and replacing one of the four ignition coils I have a pretty good running motor. The issue now is that the motor will stumble or bog down a little at wot after a bit. It is not real big (a couple hundred rpm) and will never die. I would like to find out what is going on and fix it. My thought was that the fuel pump was having problems, but I am wondering what you guys think? Thanks!
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
A weak fuel pump will not pump enough fuel into the carb bowls to sustain WOT operation. Sounds like that might be your problem. To test this theory, have a buddy constantly prime the fuel hose bulb at WOT. If the engine runs great at WOT as long as he constantly primes the fuel hose bulb, you have a fuel delivery problem. That can include a weak fuel pump or some type of fuel restriction.
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
3
I did think to try the fuel bulb to see if it fixed the rpm drop and it was not clear - it may have helped a bit, but not enough to cure it. Both of you are thinking that I should stay focused on the fuel system as the site of the problem which I find reassuring. However, is there anything in the ignition system that could cause a rpm drop at wot (especially after it has warmed up)? Thanks.
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
Weak ignition components tend to fail once the engine heats up to normal operating temps. You've got a lot of expensive ignition parts which could be failing: stator, timer base and two power packs. The coils are usually pretty reliable. [If you have a problem with one, you can always swap it out with another for testing.] Always good to test for spark on all 4 plugwires when: 1. the engine is warmed up 2. When it's under load (in forward gear in the lake) 3. The cyl-drop test is good, as is the spark-gap test.
 
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