5.7 EFI shuts fuel off right after start

Ryandehler

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Hello, I have a 99 mercruiser 5.7 EFI new long block as of last season. I installed it all myself and have limited knowledge.

I ran the boat all last season with no issues. I put the boat away before winter and didn't fully winterize it correctly. Added antifreeze through outdrive and didn't get fuel stableizer in the tank all the way( all lessons learned)

This season I filled tank to full with some fuel treatment and changed the filter. (Primed it and whatnot)

Now I hook the boat up to the muffs and go start and it starts fine and shuts off in 3-5 seconds. I took the spark arrest off and tried again. I watch the Accorns spray the fuel into the carb and then stop! I try several more times and watch them spray fine then just stop!

I noticed my ignition coil was arking so I put a new one one. I read it would be reading low oil pressure and telling the ecu to kill the fuel so I changed that. 200.00 later it's doing the exact same thing. Can anybody help?

Again, the boat was running when I put it away no problem before winter.

Thanks in advance,

Ryan
 

alldodge

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Howdy Ryan

Your plugs should be AC MR43LTS and be gapped at .045.
Timing set at 8 degrees BTDC while having the distributer set in base timing mode

There is an oil pressure sensor and an oil pressure switch. Both will be located near the oil filter. You want to find the one which has two wires coming off it. There has to be at least 5 psi oil pressure to keep the switch closed. If your oil pressure is below that or if the switch is bad, the fuel pump will stop running and the motor will die.

The coil has nothing to do with the oil pressure.

Start by putting a volt meter on the fuel pump. You should get 12V while cranking and continue the 12V when key is released. If you loose 12V remove the connector on the oil pressure switch and jumper across the two plug contacts.

If the motor keeps running with the jumper, then make sure you have good oil pressure. If you have no oil pressure shut the motor off quickly
 

Ryandehler

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Thanks for the response, I really appreciate the help. I just went and looks for the oil stately switch and can't find it. I feel back behind where the oil filter would go (next to where I just changed my oil pressure sensor) and see nothing. There is a single wire unit on the top back of the block next to the distributor. I looked up a few different pics and can't seem to find it.

Would this be a coincidence that it happened after winter and was running fine before?

-Ryan
 

alldodge

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The switch should have two wires on it. The sensor below the distributor having only one wire should be the oil pressure sensor to the gauge. The one down by the filter should be the switch, and may look like it has one wire but actually should have 2 on one plug

This shouldn't have anything to do with winterization if its been running prior to this happening.

Just thought that of something else. Put the shifter in throttle only mode and try to keep it running while giving it more throttle. If it continues to run with more throttle but dies when you come back to idle, then its the IAC or connections to it.
 

Ryandehler

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Okay, when I just started it I was able to keep it running by throttling up. It doesn't not stay idle when I throttle back down. Does this sound exactly like IAC?
 

alldodge

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Okay, when I just started it I was able to keep it running by throttling up. It doesn't not stay idle when I throttle back down. Does this sound exactly like IAC?

Yes, and a very common problem, can also be the IAC muffler if it is extremely dirty. The IAC is item 7 in link below

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31886/4856/130

The IAC muffler is a piece of foam in the throat of the throttle body. Take a pair of needle nose pliers and gently remove it. Don't use gas or solvents to clean, just soap and water. If its fairly lean the you probably just need a new IAC
 

Scott Danforth

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Do you have a TBI or MPFI motor? You mention watching the fuel spray, so I'm assuming TBI.

Your winterizing technique of attempting to suck up antifreeze has me concerned. Do you live in an area that gets cold?
 

Ryandehler

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It's an EFI, so it has the two barrels that spray fuel into the CARB.

I live in CT but fortunately it's been a mild winter along with the fact I unloaded two gallons on AF in it. Also, there was salt water in the block which helps me a little bit. I still have my fingers crossed as far as a block crack goes. This is how a friend told me to winterize and said that he keeps his motor full of antifreeze all winter without pulling plugs and has no issues.

As far as the IAC goes. I ordered it and will have it in two days. I'll post back to let you know if it works.
 

alldodge

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You have a Throttle Body Injection TBI which is the type of EFI

We here about many folks every year at the beginning of the season which have cracked blocks from using antifreeze. The best method is to drain everything, and make sure to poke a wire and screw up inside the drain plug holes to make sure they are clear. Once drained your good because air does not freeze. Now after everything has been drain, and if you still want to use antifreeze, put the plugs back in and go for it

Look forward to hearing about the fix. Also probably a bit late, but I should have mentioned you could have gotten one of the IAC's from a NAPA, other auto parts store or GM dealer
 
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Scott Danforth

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It's an EFI, so it has the two barrels that spray fuel into the CARB.

I live in CT but fortunately it's been a mild winter along with the fact I unloaded two gallons on AF in it. Also, there was salt water in the block which helps me a little bit. I still have my fingers crossed as far as a block crack goes. This is how a friend told me to winterize and said that he keeps his motor full of antifreeze all winter without pulling plugs and has no issues.

As far as the IAC goes. I ordered it and will have it in two days. I'll post back to let you know if it works.

You could have sucked up 500 gallons of AF, and it all would have gone out the exhaust until the thermostat opened. Sucking AF in the outdrive without draining is a guaranteed broken block. Manual says drain block and manifolds. It does not say suck up AF with the outdrive
 

thumpar

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You have a Throttle Body Injection TBI which is the type of EFI

We here about many folks every year at the beginning of the season which have cracked blocks from using antifreeze. The best method is to drain everything, and make sure to poke a wire and screw up inside the drain plug holes to make sure they are clear. Once drained your good because air does not freeze. Now after everything has been drain, and if you still want to use antifreeze, put the plugs back in and go for it

Look forward to hearing about the fix. Also probably a bit late, but I should have mentioned you could have gotten one of the IAC's from a NAPA, other auto parts store or GM dealer
Merc used Ford IAC motors. Strange setup.
 

Ryandehler

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Okay,

I got the part and installed it. Did not fix the issue. If I turn the boat on and throttle up right away before the fuel shut down I can get the boat to run perfect at around 1000 RPMs and stay at that indefinitely. The second I go below that it stalls out.

It's almost sounds like a timing issue at this point.

Parts installed so far

-oil pressure sensor
-new coil
-IAC
-disturber cap and rotor

So to reiterate exactly what's going on. The boat starts fine, idles for 4 seconds and then stops fuel supply. If I start, throttle up, it continues to stay running and sounds great.

I'm really stumped

-Ryan

Ps. As far as the winterizing goes, I did pull each block plug and let half the salt water out before putting them back in. With an extremely mild winter here (only below freezing a hand full of Times, being half full, and being salt water I think I may be okay)
 

alldodge

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Did you reset the IAC valve after install?
Turn key ON (do not start) for 10 seconds.
Turn key OFF for 10 seconds

Should be reset and can now start.

If this doesn't work and you still have the issue, then need to start checking the wiring connections
 

Ryandehler

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Okay, did this and it still didn't work. I'm wondering at this point if it's and idle issue? What's normal RPM IDLE?
 

Fun Times

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Unfortunately you could have a number of things not working within proper range to have a normal idle speed of 600 RPM and to start off with, you'll want to know if you have an EFI sensor out of range which may (or may not) produce a fault code. Being that you have a MEFI 3 designed ECM, there is a way to build your own trouble code reader to see if you have any codes which doesn't necessarily mean it will sound a warning horn on all ECM models of that ere. The following link offers the best advice of how to create this trouble code reading tool and offers some schematics of what the numbers may mean should you have any... http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...-code-tool-less-than-$1-00-a.html#post1328705

This can be challenging without the aid of a Marine Scan Tool telling you what the sensor parameters are but using a multimeter could help verify their parameter values too along with an OEM service manual to help guide you in the troubleshooting sections of the manual.

A few examples that could affect staling could be if the throttle position sensor has become out of range in the low settings, it could affect idle RPM and kill the engine.
A defective MAP sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, intake manifold sensor as well.
Low fuel pressure to the TBI unit and Low to too High fuel flow values out of the TB injectors could cause low RPM stalls.
Faulty ignition sources like the coil, coil wire leaking, leaking "spark" plug wires, fouled spark plugs, ignition module/or sensor under the dizzy cap depending on engine model....Yours don't have the module design that thoroughly controls timing. Timing is more controlled via the MEFI 3 ECM.
Dirty throttle body and TB plates, misadjusted throttle cable, engine vacuum leaks, bad/old fuel.

Do you have a Bravo stern drive or Alpha drive? If alpha, again, misadjusted shift cable/throttle cable movement that's out of sequence cold be affecting the shift cut out switch located on the shift cable plate mounted on the engine and vibration from a rough idle could possible be pushing on the cut out switch. < Remember, these are just ideas being thrown out there for one to look over.

Sorry to read you bought a new oil pressure switch because unfortunately on this EFI engine model, the oil pressure switch doesn't directly affect fuel pump control, it's done via the ECM that turns on and off a fuel pump relay. Mercruiser "carbureted" engines only use the oil psi switch to control electric fuel pump power.

Even though the fuel injectors seem to stop flowing fuel and the engine dies at low RPM, you'll have to try and determine if the Relay/ECM system is turning off the engine at idle which I'd say no it's not happening because you can keep it running by manually advancing the throttle.

So by advancing the throttle, essentially you are giving the engine more air, more fuel and more timing and many parameters are constantly changing as well with each RPM advanced.... So now you'll need to try and determine if the engine seems to be overly rich in fuel or under fueled (running to lean). To inspect for this condition is by first looking at the water flow coming out of the exhaust system to see if you see a heavy fuel/water mixture plus maybe a rich smoke smell in the air and also pull out a few spark plugs to see what they may look like too.

Engine timing would be hard to check at idle if it keeps dying, but with the info within the link above you could try going into service mode to see if the engine will run on it's own as being a MEFI 3 ECM, it should rev the engine up somewhere between 1200 1800 RPM automatically once put into service mode. And if need be, you could go up your known working 1000 RPM, go into service mode then bring the idle down and see what happens. It may run, it may die.

At some point you may just need to check for an engine vacuum leak both by spraying something like carb cleaner around the top of the engine and also connect a vacuum gauge up to see what the internal engine vacuum system is doing/reading.

First pull out some spark plugs to see what they look like. Then remove the throttle cable from the TBI throttle stud, clean the throttle body plates and walls where plate almost rests. Once clean and the throttle cable still removed, put the spark plugs back in and see if it will start normal...If not open the throttle, get the engine up to temp of 160 degrees, slowly bring the idle down and see if it will idle at 600 RPM.

Maybe posting a video of how it runs and dies might help too.

Hope this starts to help in someway, good luck.
 

Ryandehler

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Wow, what an awesome response. Thanks for taking the time to try and help me! I'm gonna start with that throttle position sensor first because I did mess with that this year.

Last season the boat would take about 5 seconds to go into neutral after shifting into neutral position. I moved the switch sensor around this year and adjusted it thinking maybe it was stuck.
 

thumpar

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Start by reading for any codes. The led needed can be found at radio shack. You just need a paper clip to get it to spit the codes out. I have used it to check mine out.
 

Ryandehler

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I figured out he ISSUE! I want to thank everyone for all their help, it means a lot!

The throttle position sensor was touching the wrong part of the bracket. There are two springs, one on the top and one on the bottom. One of be springs was below the pin so the the button on the sensor was constantly pressed in!
 

Fun Times

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Wow, what an awesome response. Thanks for taking the time to try and help me! I'm gonna start with that throttle position sensor first because I did mess with that this year.

Last season the boat would take about 5 seconds to go into neutral after shifting into neutral position. I moved the switch sensor around this year and adjusted it thinking maybe it was stuck.

I figured out he ISSUE! I want to thank everyone for all their help, it means a lot!

The throttle position sensor was touching the wrong part of the bracket. There are two springs, one on the top and one on the bottom. One of be springs was below the pin so the the button on the sensor was constantly pressed in!
Awesome, it's good to hear that it was something I touched on that got you heading in the right direction to resolve the issue.:thumb:
Just to clear something up though, it sounds like you might have two sensors crossed up in wording as you mentioned both throttle position sensor and the Alpha Shift Interrupter/Cut-Out Switch. From your description, it sounds more like you re-adjusted the Shift Interrupter/Cut-Out Switch and not the throttle position sensor.

The mercruiser Alpha shift interrupter switch would be mounted on the shift cable plate and looks like this, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31886/4856/240

The throttle position sensor (big image seen below) is mounted on the throttle body which delivers fuel to the engine. It's going to be item number 10, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31886/4856/130

0011034_Mercury%20Marine%20part%20number%20805226A1_550.jpeg
 

Ryandehler

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Yes, you are correct. It's the interrupter switch. I did change the TP one too as it was not the problem. So many damn sensors!!
 
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