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stan2076

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Boxing top crossmember support and reinforcing through holes for outboard mount. When you don't know the math, overengineer.20231104_221246_HDR.jpg20231104_221436_HDR.jpg
 

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stan2076

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My original plan was to build out the transom like I did and then run channel alongside the engine bay walls from the transom to the next boat crossmember where the old front stringer engine mount was attached for extra strength. (Where the green line is in the photo.) Any thoughts on whether this is necessary for a 115HP outboard? I don't mind doing it but I'd like to save the weight of it wasn't necessary.

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stan2076

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Proposed tank and battery layout. Not sure yet if the fill tube should go to the front or back. Also plan to add hydraulic steering at some point need to make sure there is clearance. Will need to mount the motor soon to check the clearances

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stan2076

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Will weld in this 3/16" plate for some final reinforcement on the inside of the transom tying the top and bottom crossmembers together. Probably should weld up that gap between the top of the transom and the upper crossmembers?

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Scott06

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stan2076 said:
My original plan was to build out the transom like I did and then run channel alongside the engine bay walls from the transom to the next boat crossmember where the old front stringer engine mount was attached for extra strength. (Where the green line is in the photo.) Any thoughts on whether this is necessary for a 115HP outboard? I don't mind doing it but I'd like to save the weight of it wasn't necessary.

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not needed you are pushing against plenty of metal. What are you using to weld with tig or mig? Was trying to guess from the photos.not mocking your work, I’m just learning how to tig aluminum .
 
Scott Danforth

Scott Danforth

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Make sure to put the battery in a battery box. Acid leaks happen
 
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stan2076

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Scott06 said:
not needed you are pushing against plenty of metal. What are you using to weld with tig or mig? Was trying to guess from the photos.not mocking your work, I’m just learning how to tig aluminum
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Thanks, I was looking at some pics of pontoon transom tubes online and there is definitely not as much structure in a lot of those as what I put in mine, so thanks for your thoughts as well. I'll stop there with the aluminum. Especially with the cost of extruded aluminum these days.

It's mig with a spool gun. I actually have a tig welder as well but am nowhere proficient enough to trust the welds I make. Welding is a diminishing skill for sure, I used to do a lot of mig welding years ago and laid down some really nice consistent welds. If only there was unlimited time. :)
 
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stan2076

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Don't know if I was overthinking this, but going back to the Honda installation guide, it shows 0" to 1" from the bottom of the hull to the anticavitation plate. Following this logic, when I installed the transom plate I extended the bottom edge to that dimension with the intent to extend the bottom edge up toward the front of the engine bay, like in the picture below. As I was tacking the bottom plate in place i was thinking that the 0 to 1" maybe applied more to v-hull boats vs a pontoon since the water should be pretty clean between the pontoons? Would this angle cause any issues? The triangular sides will have plates welded in providing slightly more bouyancy. Am I overthinking this again?

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