3.0 tap/knock

Mskeels

Cadet
Joined
Apr 6, 2024
Messages
7
Hello everyone. I rebuilt my 3.0 Merc and have some sort of tap/knock around piston no3. Any advise and direction in solving. I have no interest in taking it to a shop as it’s a hobby and like to learn!

I couldn’t notice anything moving in the bottom end.

TIA
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View attachment IMG_0370.MOV
 

dubs283

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Jul 27, 2005
Messages
5,283
First "distributorless" 3.0L I've ever seen, not many out there

Sounds slow enough to be a valve/lifter issue

Would recommend a mechanic's stethoscope, cylinder drop test, running without the belt, removing the drive and running the engine, try running on the water under a load, etc....
 

Alumarine

Captain
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
3,699
If you suspect 3 have you tried backing off and then tightening the lifters for 3 to see if the sound changes?
Did you plasti-gauge the rod bearings?
 

Mskeels

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Joined
Apr 6, 2024
Messages
7
First "distributorless" 3.0L I've ever seen, not many out there

Sounds slow enough to be a valve/lifter issue

Would recommend a mechanic's stethoscope, cylinder drop test, running without the belt, removing the drive and running the engine, try running on the water under a load, etc....
Thanks bud. Removed the coupler so no drive and used a stethoscope seams like it’s around the no3 cam area. Really cant see anything
 

Mskeels

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Joined
Apr 6, 2024
Messages
7
If you suspect 3 have you tried backing off and then tightening the lifters for 3 to see if the sound changes?
Did you plasti-gauge the rod bearings?
Yep tried the backing off the lifters. Didn’t use plastic gauge on bearings as new and crank was done
 

Scott06

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Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
5,787
Yep tried the backing off the lifters. Didn’t use plastic gauge on bearings as new and crank was done
I would be checking the clearances and also wrist pin. doesnt sound like valvetrain to me but could be. Even if it was machined check them always. I have had to take rods back that were resized wrong.

was it bored? I had an old volvo that on real cold starts would have some piston slap until it warmed up which sounded similar. This was due to forged piston cold wall clearance being more than typical cast piston.
 

Mskeels

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Joined
Apr 6, 2024
Messages
7
I would be checking the clearances and also wrist pin. doesnt sound like valvetrain to me but could be. Even if it was machined check them always. I have had to take rods back that were resized wrong.

was it bored? I had an old volvo that on real cold starts would have some piston slap until it warmed up which sounded similar. This was due to forged piston cold wall clearance being more than typical cast piston.
I would be checking the clearances and also wrist pin. doesnt sound like valvetrain to me but could be. Even if it was machined check them always. I have had to take rods back that were resized wrong.

was it bored? I had an old volvo that on real cold starts would have some piston slap until it warmed up which sounded similar. This was due to forged piston cold wall clearance being more than typical cast piston.
Thanks I’ll look into this. Do the conrod widths look large?

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Mskeels

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Joined
Apr 6, 2024
Messages
7
I would check the side clearance on the con rods vs spec. In your first post the main bearing cap is off was there scoring on the crank?
you said crank was done by whom ?
shop did the crank. well know local guy. no scoring on crank bud
 

Scott06

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
5,787
Its the side clearance on con rods that look big?
Can tell from the keyboard. It’s making noise so you need to go through and measure all the clearances vs spec. If you don’t have the mI do eters would take it to some one who does
 

dave8311

Seaman
Joined
Jun 6, 2022
Messages
73
shop did the crank. well know local guy. no scoring on crank bud
That pic before or after you ran it? Wrong bearing clearance will mess up a newly machined journal.

Are those rods not the ones that came out of that block, originally?
 
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