nphilbro
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2011
- Messages
- 304
I think I'm dealing with a carburetor/auto chocke issue. I just acquired this motor with 5 hours on it on trade after original owner gave up on it after over filling the oil and locking it up, then his dad burned up the electric starter trying to get it running again. First, I purchased a manual but it turned out to be for the older models so it's not helpful for my question. I can rebuild a OMC 2-stroke with my eyes closed so am comfortable with a wrench but not so familiar with 4 stroke operation.
I slowly worked the oil out of the crankcase and fuel system with the pull start until it would fire and actually run on its own. I flushed new fuel through the carb, pulled the plugs 8-10x to clean burnt carbon off them as the oil worked its way out. I'm having issues with low idle/rough idle at this point.
So my questions are several:
There is the electric start chocke assembly on top of the carb, I'm hand starting this motor due to the electric starter being burned out. I have the battery leads connected to to a good battery to make current available when needed and not burn up the rectifier (if it isn't already). Do I need to override this electric choke somehow?
What's the proper way to set/check the carb linkage? I've noticed I get painful a compression lockup pulling it if the rear armatures are adjusted with linkage arm sticking up higher out of the barrel lock vs. if it's flush.
I haven't completely removed and rebuilt the carb, yet. I removed the choke, drain screw, and top cover and blew compressed air into all the accessible orifaces, including the tiny idle orifaces on top of the carb with motor in gear and fully open as well as neutral/idle. There was no visible sign of oil after that but it still ran rough. I'd like to test a few simple possibilities out before pulling the flywheel and tearing the carb apart.
Again, I suspect the rough running condition has something to do with either the electric choke or throttle linkage setting. I'm working on a new motor that's already been "worked on" by someone that should never have touched it, as evidenced by the completely destroyed impeller.
Hoping you guys can give some good pointers.
I slowly worked the oil out of the crankcase and fuel system with the pull start until it would fire and actually run on its own. I flushed new fuel through the carb, pulled the plugs 8-10x to clean burnt carbon off them as the oil worked its way out. I'm having issues with low idle/rough idle at this point.
So my questions are several:
There is the electric start chocke assembly on top of the carb, I'm hand starting this motor due to the electric starter being burned out. I have the battery leads connected to to a good battery to make current available when needed and not burn up the rectifier (if it isn't already). Do I need to override this electric choke somehow?
What's the proper way to set/check the carb linkage? I've noticed I get painful a compression lockup pulling it if the rear armatures are adjusted with linkage arm sticking up higher out of the barrel lock vs. if it's flush.
I haven't completely removed and rebuilt the carb, yet. I removed the choke, drain screw, and top cover and blew compressed air into all the accessible orifaces, including the tiny idle orifaces on top of the carb with motor in gear and fully open as well as neutral/idle. There was no visible sign of oil after that but it still ran rough. I'd like to test a few simple possibilities out before pulling the flywheel and tearing the carb apart.
Again, I suspect the rough running condition has something to do with either the electric choke or throttle linkage setting. I'm working on a new motor that's already been "worked on" by someone that should never have touched it, as evidenced by the completely destroyed impeller.
Hoping you guys can give some good pointers.