2006 volvo 3.0 glp-d...Nightmare!!

seventeen2

Seaman
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
64
Good afternoon all,

I have had an ongoing problem with my engine regarding tickover and stalling.
I thought it may have been water in the fuel, so had the tank emptied and cleaned out.
The engines ran fine after this, but i then discovered that my tickover was too high on one engine, roughly about 950rpm (out of gear), although the tacho says it running at 500rpm?
I tested the actual tickover with a lazer gun on the crank pully.
When i tried to adjust down the tickover to roughly 700rpm i find the engine will start to shake and die off, and when i get close to 700rpm, when i try to put it in gear it will stall?
I remember seeing a procedure of setting the idle speed up, using the idle mixture screws, but im unsure to touch these as i dont want to wreck the factory settings and it seems these screws are covered by a tamper proof cover?
Please could someone give me a few pointers as its one of those issues thats really starting to get on my nerves!!

Kind Regards
Dan
 

zbnutcase

Commander
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Messages
2,055
Re: 2006 volvo 3.0 glp-d...Nightmare!!

You may have to remove the "tamper proof" covers and adjust the carb. The carbs are set on a wet-flow test bench at the carb factory, and cannot take into account the wide, wide variances in mass produced engines.
 

seventeen2

Seaman
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
64
Re: 2006 volvo 3.0 glp-d...Nightmare!!

Thanks for the speedy reply zbnutcase,

Would you happen to know how to acheive this? Would the flame arrestor need to be removed and is it safe to run the engine without it?

Cheers
Dan
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,764
Re: 2006 volvo 3.0 glp-d...Nightmare!!

You don't need to remove the flame arrestor. If you intend to start mucking with the carburetor (or perform any other maintenance yourself), you are advised to obtain a factory service manual for your specific power plant. It will save you time, frustration and potentially lots of money since it may help you avoid making a major mistake. Those are "idle mixture" adjustments, not "idle speed" adjustments although the two do work together. The basic process is to set the idle speed as close to spec as you can which allows the engine to stay running. You then adjust the idle mixture screws which IF (note I said IF) they were set wrong, may speed up the engine. You then lower the idle speed again and readjust the mixture screws. Mixture can be adjusted by turning the screws inward until the engine begins to gag/bog. Note the setting. Turn the screw outward until the engine smooths and then begins to gag/bog again. Note that setting. Optimum setting is somewhere between the in and out limits you observed.
 
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