2001 Yar-Craft 1895 Storm Cap-Off Rebuild

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
After I get the rod lockers and last two pedastals installed, I need to do a test start of the optimax and see how/if it runs. It hasn't been run in almost 3 years now. I think I might run it off of a few gallons of gas in a small gas can with a high concentration of Techron in it. Then repeat with the kicker motor. Then water trial.

I also need to clean up the seats, there's a lot of dirt on them.
 

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
Here is an over due update. I got the required interior parts installed and then fired up the 2001 225 hp Mercury Optimax. It started up on the hose, so next step was to take it to the lake for a water trial.

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Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
The 225 optimax fired right up, but everytime I would get it up to around 2000 rpm (I'm guessing because the tach wasn't working) it would start to sputter and die. After putting around the lake for about an hour, it was getting us up to about 7 mph top speed before sputtering.

I took it home and read a bunch of old forum posts and identified the most likely problem to be the low pressure fuel pump. There are three fuel pumps in the optimax. There is a mechanical pump that runs off the engines vacuum and pulls fuel to the engine, then an electric low pressure fuel pump that pumps gas into the VST (Vapor separator tank), and then a high pressure fuel pump inside the vst that sends the fuel to the injector rails at 90 psi. Apparently the low pressure fuel pump is very sensitive to ethanol in the gas as well as old gas sitting in it. I decided to take apart the fuel system check the pumps. When pulling the high pressure fuel pump out of the VST, the top nozzle broke off. I'm not sure if it was cracked to begin with, or if I was just too rough with it, but it had to be replaced. I also replaced the low pressure fuel pumps. I got aftermarket pumps from fleebay.

Removing VST from engine.
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Dissasembling the vst, notice broken high pressure pump on right. The low pressure pump is the black one with hoses still attached.
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Mechanical fuel pump. I checked the diaphragms while I had everything apart, it looked like new inside.
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Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
I also had the engine giving an alarm. It was putting out 4 beeps about every 2 minutes. Looked it up and it is the alarm for either the internal oil tank getting low or water in the fuel. I unplugged the water in fuel sensor, alarm still there. I connected a jumper to the two leads going to the oil sensor and alarm went away. I checked the oil level and it was completely full. I read some more and it seems the float tends to either stop floating or lose its magnetic properties that trip the sensor. So I replaced the oil tank, and alarm went away.
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Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
So I put everything together and it wouldn't start. After some time I realized I should bleed the fuel lines, so I pressed on the schrader valve on the fuel rail until fuel started coming out. Still no start. So I ordered a fuel pressure gauge. My pressure gauge came in and I used it to bleed the fuel system of air and I confirmed 90 psi fuel pressure and 80 psi air pressure. Still no start. I was about to take the vst apart again to make sure I put it back together correctly, when I found a ground wire that was disconnected from the vst. Reconnected it and it started right up. While looking everything over, I found that the fuel line that runs from the fuel tank to a fitting in the cap was leaking gas. I removed the old line, hunted around and found a marine rated fuel hose and installed the next day. Then I took it to the lake and it wouldn't start again. So we putted around the lake on the 9.9 kicker and my buddy picked up a couple nice pike. Took the boat home and first thing I did was bleed the fuel system again and it started right up. Apparently sitting for a day with the fuel line from tank to motor removed had allowed enough air into the fuel system to cause trouble. Took it to the river this time, it is closer than the lake and was finally able to give it proper test run.
 

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
The engine finally started and ran without any hint of a problem. Smooth operation through the whole rpm range. With the wind at our backs, I had it up to 54.7 mph. If I trimmed it up all the way, it started to feel a bit unstable, so I may need to lower the engine on the jackplate a tiny bit. I want to see how it runs at slower speeds in some rougher water before I start changing the engine height. I'm really happy to have it operational in time to hopefully get over to lake Erie once or twice before the launches freeze up.

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oldrem

Commander
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Nov 7, 2013
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2,002
Glad to see you got it done in time to enjoy it a bit yet this year.
 

Louis930

Recruit
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
2
Congrats on the beautiful restoration, Slager. I have an opportunity to purchase an 1895 Storm and was hoping for some direction. My knowledge on hull issues is extremely limited, but reviewing your rebuild process has me concerned that this boat could have similar issues. The owner tells me it is in excellent condition and has always been stored indoors during the offseason. Are there any visible signs I should be looking for that may give hints of hull issues, dry rot, etc. Again, my knowledge level is extremely limited, so any direction would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks..
 

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
Congrats on the beautiful restoration, Slager. I have an opportunity to purchase an 1895 Storm and was hoping for some direction. My knowledge on hull issues is extremely limited, but reviewing your rebuild process has me concerned that this boat could have similar issues. The owner tells me it is in excellent condition and has always been stored indoors during the offseason. Are there any visible signs I should be looking for that may give hints of hull issues, dry rot, etc. Again, my knowledge level is extremely limited, so any direction would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks..

These 1895 storms are a great boat to fish out of, especially on big lakes. What year is the one you're looking at? If you are serious about buying an older one, the best thing you can do is pay for a marine survey. They cost several hundred, but it will provide either peace of mind, serious negotiating power or a clear reason to pass on that boat. Definitely ask the owner for permission to do a marine survey even if you don't actually have it done. Reluctance of the owner to give permission indicates a problem.

If you don't want to do the marine survey, here is what you can do. First, check every inch of the deck for any hint of soft spots. Any soft spot indicates serious problems. Also, during a test ride, have some one drive the boat while you watch the transom for movement, have them go on and of plane, fwd, rev, and over some waves or boat wakes. The transom shouldn't flex. Out of the water, You can also tilt the motor up some and bounce up and down on the skeg and watch for the transom to flex. After that, you can remove the starting batteries and get your head down into the bilge. There should be limber holes at the bottom of the stringers, about 8-12" from the transom. You should be able to get your finger into those holes and feel dry solid wood above. If the fiberglass is at all loose from the wood, it could be a problem. Tap on the stringers all along its length and listen for the sound to change and look for any soft spots, dark spots, any sign of water leaking out of the stringers. If the owner will let you (its not unreasonable for the owner to be reluctant here), the best thing you can do is drill a couple 1/4" holes in the stringers and transom about 2" up from the hull. The stringers are set on foam strips, so you have to be high enough to hit wood, but not too high to miss water. You may need to go 3-4" up on the transom and if you can fit, do it between the step and the stringer, maybe 2" above the center of the step would be good too. You should get clean, dry wood shavings. If drilling produces anything dark and wet, slimy, stinky or powdery, that is a problem. Those holes can be filled with marine tex putty or 3m 5200. Then, also use some judgement on if the garage it is in looks like it doesn't leak and if the owner has been honest and consistent in his statements. If everything checks out, these are an awesome walleye boat. I like them so much, I was willing to do the work to fix mine. You can also start a new thread here on iboats, post some pictures and more experienced eyes can look at it.

Oh, one more thing. Look at the plastic pieces, through hulls, access port covers. They should be in decent condition. If they turn to powder when scratched with your finger nail, they have been exposed to a lot of sun, meaning probably a lot of rain too.
 
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Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
Louis, In the last picture of post 86, you can see my two access ports. See how dirty they are, the plastic has deteriorated a lot. They are still usable for my purposes, but would have been an indicator of weather exposure if we had paid attention. Most of the plastic through hull fittings are in similar condition.
 

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
I still have a few things to do. Most of them are getting put off to next year. Last time I was out, the live wells weren't filling. I could hear the pumps turn on, but no water in the well. Also, one of the valves on the live well drain hose was leaking when I filled it up with a bucket. I still need to put a drain at the back center of the floor too. There were originally two small plastic drains, but I can't find them. I'm going to put in a 3" pvc drain. It will drain through to the bilge.
 

Louis930

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Joined
Nov 3, 2017
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2
This is a 2001 DC model. I do believe the owner when he tells me it has been meticulously cared for. He provided an awful detail on what he has done to the boat, and that he has owned it since 03. Thanks very much for the suggestions, I'm going to look at it right now and will see how it goes.
 

Teamster

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
1,923
MId 50's might be all you'll get, Chine walk at that point is common,...

You might maybe get a bit more speed by raising the motor a touch,...

But I'd guess your pretty close to where you'll want it,...
 

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
MId 50's might be all you'll get, Chine walk at that point is common,...

You might maybe get a bit more speed by raising the motor a touch,...

But I'd guess your pretty close to where you'll want it,...

Before the rebuild it was topping out around 45, so removing all that wet foam helped a lot. Before my Dad's red Yar-craft had the transom crack, (same boat, motor and prop) it was doing 53 top speed. I'm not going to raise the motor anymore, I might even lower it. It was starting to have a tiny bit of chine walk going into the wind. I could probably pick up a couple mph by increasing prop pitch a degree or two, but I'm going to use it as is for now.
 
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