2001 evinrude ficht

Jhayes780

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OK, long story short replace the powerhead. When it hooked up to an external key start and attached to an external battery runs absolutely fine. However, now I have the issue hooked up to my boat. Every time I turn the key, it blows the fuse. (20ah) right to the EMM. Any idea what this could mean?
 

Jhayes780

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OK, long story short replace the powerhead. When it hooked up to an external key start and attached to an external battery runs absolutely fine. However, now I have the issue hooked up to my boat. Every time I turn the key, it blows the fuse. (20ah) right to the EMM. Any idea what this could mean?
Also for clarification when I disconnected from the Bote battery source and have it hooked up to its own battery and use a remote key start for it. It runs fine. Even after the fuse blows all the electronics run fine.
 

Crosbyman

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post mdl# and year !!!!

recent case like this came up recently be it ETEC or FICHT the EMM needs power to boot up and start the engine ... it then looks it self powers itself and no longer needs B+ from the key acc post to run.

why does the battery blow.... well excess current somewhere ..could be accessories could be EMM could be chaffed power wires.

when did all this start ? any mods in the boat
btw do you push the key in when starting ???

try disconnecting all accessories if any and run just the EMM drain on the fuse. Usually a returned purple from the switch carries B+ to the EMM make certain it does not touch ground anywhere . poke and jiggle wires with key ON only to see if the fuse blows

sure you need 20 amp fuse ???

do you have documentation to follow the wiring ?
 
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Crosbyman

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depending on mdl# try disconnecting J1B on the EMM if fuse no longer blows at key ON it is likley a bad EMM

here is blown fuse case on an ETEC 250... grandchild of FICHT using an EMM

if not accessory caused somewhere on the purple from the switch and if the fuse no longer blows with J1B disconnected ...EMM mostly likely shorted to ground internally on the B+ input

if you have EV diagnostics you may have a copy of files needed to duplicate the info in a new EMM $$$ . A dealer would be able to load the info in a new EMM .


if theEMM is dead you will not be able to accessit with EV Diag. se link fyi.

 
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Crosbyman

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btw if you do arrive at the conclusion the EMM Is shot they can be repaired

this shop has a fairly good reputation. REpairsare subject to customs fees when returned from Europe

see one feedback but call them up for a FICHT EMM
08/17/19
I am working currently on a 6m RIB which still has a Yamaha 60 2 stroke twin setup . These motors I am intending to replace with 2x ETEC90s .
For this I purchased recently a very reasonably priced 90 ETEC made back in 2005 with proven hours and good repair and maintenance history .
Only thing - the EMM was fried . The 10A fuse burned when switching on the ignition .
There is a company in Netherlands which advertise that they can repair ETEC EMMs .
So I gave it a try and sent my EMM 2 weeks ago over . Yesterday I got the message that the EMM is repaired and on the way back to me .
The cost is around 25% of a new EMM - so very reasonable .https://d28lcup14p4e72.cloudfront.net/40622/4741873/20190727_183108.jpg



this place may help also
 
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Jhayes780

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Hey guys thanks for the response. I really don’t think it’s the emm if I pull all the fuses to the accessories and see if it turns over that way? Anyone think that will give me any indication?

It was running perfect.
 

Crosbyman

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see post#3.. btw please post you mdl (HP)

btw which fuse is blowing exactly... on the PDP ? without your engine mdl can't do much more to help out


look in this link to find the closest year FICHT service manual and download

the wiring diagram should help you track down the problem.

1713829793183.png
try disconnecting all accessories and run just the EMM drain on the fuse. Usually a returned purple from the switch carries B+ to the EMM
Make certain it does not touch ground anywhere . poke and jiggle wires with key ON only to see if the fuse blows

if disconnecting all loads leaving just the EMM works out..... then yes the EMM should be ok and the problem lies in the " disconnected loads"

but if you do disconnect the EMM and the fuse stops blowing the EMM becomes suspect#1

follow the wiring diagram on the fused power distribution. IF it is not the EMM then power is overdrawn by a load or the distribution wiring is grounded somewhere .
 
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Jhayes780

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see post#3.. btw please post you mdl (HP)

btw which fuse is blowing exactly... on the PDP ? without your engine mdl can't do much more to help out


look in this link to find the closest year FICHT service manual and download

the wiring diagram should help you track down the problem.

View attachment 397123
try disconnecting all accessories and run just the EMM drain on the fuse. Usually a returned purple from the switch carries B+ to the EMM
Make certain it does not touch ground anywhere . poke and jiggle wires with key ON only to see if the fuse blows

if disconnecting all loads leaving just the EMM works out..... then yes the EMM should be ok and the problem lies in the " disconnected loads"

but if you do disconnect the EMM and the fuse stops blowing the EMM becomes suspect#1

follow the wiring diagram on the fused power distribution. IF it is not the EMM then power is overdrawn by a load or the distribution wiring is grounded somewhere .
This is the model E250FPXSIF
 

Crosbyman

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Can't help with the retard shortcomings :) but looking at the 250hp wire diagram I have for a 2002 250 hp FICHT..... the only fusible link out of the power dist. panel is a direct feed into the EMM.
1713971722327.png
the diagram shows it entering near a cooling nipple. maybe you can trace it and confirm.

if so them the fuse is strictly for the EMM B+ supply and if it blows at key on... the diagnostic is ...not pleasant to say the least .
1713971962396.png

meantime I can dig some more. ANY FICHT experts out there ????


update:... odd can't find a R/B exiting the PDP... can you trace that fuse older to it's final destination ? when it blows do you loose power trim ?

that fusible link R/B almost seems to go to a mounting bolt ?? purpose is not clear in te 2002 manual.

I am using a 2002 diagram ... possible the 2001 was different .. tracing may be the only option :-(
 
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Jhayes780

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The piece it runs to that I thought was the emm is actually the power distribution panel I’m pretty sure if I remember when I did a brief trace it’s not going to the emm it’s with a bunch of other wires that go to the boat itself but I’ll try to check today
 
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Crosbyman

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found this 20 amp fuse holder.. it may be the mainsupply B+ to the PDP ... if so a load in the PDP is blowing it ...se PDP diagram NOrmally the smaller B+ 10 amp should blow first at key ON not the 20 amp fuse ! try removing the trim relays directly connected to the 20amp input supply.... could be a shorted to ground relay coil ???


if not a relay coil one of the loads has suspected is pulling to many amps. individually all those smaller 10 amp fuse may not blow but the cumulative load is to much for the 20 fuse so any one function may be drawing to much amps but less than 10 !

you have no other choice but to track down the culprit EMM being suspect #1 ( a grounded feeder wire from the PDP outputs of a 10 amp fuse would blow it not the bigger 20 amp fuse !


1713976459838.png




1713975957302.png
 
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Crosbyman

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ok been rethinking this out... relay coils not likely the problem since they don't need KEY ON to be energized or blow a fuse for that matter. Trim is suppose to work regardless of KEY ON or KEY OFF so.....

the excess (suspect) fuse load (>20 amps) is on the B+ heading out to the KEY .


to blow a 20 amp fuse at 12v equals to 12volts/20 amps= 0.6 ohms or less to blow. (ohms law V/I=R)

with the fuse OUT probe the load side of the fuse and measure Ohms to ground.

with KEY ON if R is less than .6 ohms one component connected as a load on the Key B+ distribution is drawing all the current. Eliminate them one by one till the R value jumps up above .6 ohms
 

Crosbyman

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The plot thickens..... that R/B wire (in yellow) "fuseable link" into the PDP is also referred to as being a " fuse holder" on some versions ...of FICHT engines

all fuses are fuseable by nature... so with the document I have I can't say if yours is that rubber fuse holder in the picture you provided. All the drawing I have shows it going into the EMM on the 200-250hp wire diagram.

Furthermore the 200-250 diagram year 2002 does not show a typical FUSE HOLDER on any B+ carrying wire.

in conclusion....to bad we don't have a 2001 layout Tracing as well ohm measurements are needed to progress. further to find the culprit load.
 

Jhayes780

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if I remove that it doesn’t blow at key on
 

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Jhayes780

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if I remove that it doesn’t blow at key on
Also I believe that’s the ignition relay. And ya tilt trim still works fine accessories work. Emm will still power on and self test when I turn the key on etc with no code or warning
 

Jhayes780

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The wires at the bottom of the PDP, I removed those and plugged them back in and it now turns on without blowing the fuse, I couldn’t get it started because I think my batteries are a little low, but that’s where I’m at now
 

Crosbyman

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good find!

are you saying you reinserted the relay and the problem is gone ????

that relay first one under the two rows of fuses is the STOP/ING relay
( see pdpd drawing above)

removing it may... have jiggled something inside and the fuse no longer blows.!

If nothing EXTERNAL to the relay created the problem then the relay is likely defective.... and it ay awaken again (fail) at a bad time! ... so keep the in mind and carry spare fuses !

Charge up that battery and repost the conclusion. :)

btw some PDP panels do have a history of bad welds (cold solder joints) on the bottom B+ at the bottom. if you so chose.... you could inspect the back side and check everyting out. any cold solder joint can be simply rewelded if your are handy with a soldering iron.
 
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