2001 Bayliner Capri 180 CJ instrument panel help

[johnnylama]

Im having some issues with my Nav and Anchor lights. Basically, they're not working! Checked fuses and their all ok. Schematic says that Nav is a SPST switch and Anchor is DPST. The 2 switches are jumped together.

2 main questions:

1. When my Nav switch is on, should it automatically turn my Nav AND Anchor lights? If so, shouldnt the Nav switch be DPST and Anchor be SPST? Why is it the other way around?

2. I never noticed before, but it appears that my gauge lights are always on when the key is on.....NOT just when the Nav lights are on. Is this normal for my boat or is there an issue i need to investigate?


Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[johnnylama]

Follow up question related to my schematic. Im confused about the DPST symbol.






My understanding is that the correct symbol for DPST is this one:



Also, my understanding is that a DPST swich should have 4 terminals.....but mine only has 3. Again, this is the Anchor switch I'm talking about....which is even more confusing because I would think that it should be the Nav swich that operates both the Nav and the Anchor lights.

Im very confusted. Could my schematic be wrong?

Please help.

thanks.

 

[Silvertip]

Don't over-think this.
1) You have separate NAV and ANC switches. It doesn't matter in that case what pole configuration the switches are as long as there is an ON-OFF function.
2) The NAV switch controls only the bow (NAV) light.
3) The ANC switch controls only the stern (anchor/all around light).
4) When the boat is moving BOTH switches must be on.
5) When the boat is anchored ONLY the ANC switch should be on.
6) Though not uncommon, it is silly to have the instrument panel lights on all the time. They should be controlled by the NAV switch. There is no need to have them on when at anchor. To change this, look at the back of each gauge. You will find a wire jumpered from the "L" terminal on one gauge to the next gauge. The first gauge in the string will have a wire that is either wired to the "I" terminal on the first gauge, or to the ignition switch. Simply disconnect that wire and connect it to the NAV switch terminal that feeds the NAV lights. The instrument lights will now be on only when the NAV switch is on.

 

[johnnylama]

Thanks for the reply Silvertip. Everything you said makes perfect sense except there is still 1 question.
Why are the 2 switched jumped together and why does Nav switch have 2 terminals and Anchor switch has 3?

I think the intended design was to have the Nav switch operate both bow and stern lights for when boat is moving.....and Anch switch to only operate stern light during anchor.

 

[bruceb58]

Put the schematic on photobucket and post it.

 

[johnnylama]

Schamatic is already posted above....isn't it?

 

[johnnylama]

Here's the whole schematic.

 

[johnnylama]

one more try....

 

[bruceb58]

OK...now it makes way more sense. You anchor light switch overrides the nav switch. If you have both switches on, only your anchor light will come on. If only the nav switch is on, both sets of lights will work.

Not uncommon to have your gauge lights be on when you turn on your ignition. It actually makes a lot of sense. If you are anchored or tied to a dock, you want your gauge lights to come on without having your nav lights on. My boat and the one before it was set up that way.

 

[johnnylama]

Thank you. That does makes sense now that i look at it.

 

[johnnylama]

Bruce, Since you reviewed my schematic I was hoping you could answer another quetion for me.

The ANC switch is a three terminal toggle with 2 terminals at the "top" and 1 at the "bottom" like the sketch below:



Based on the schematic for the ANC switch, I think the following wire configuration is correct:

A = 16 GA GY
B = 16 GA D-BL
C = 16 GA GY-BL

I think the bottom terminal is probably where the line out and so this should be the wire that goes directly to the anchor light. The other 2 terminals are probably 2 separate line ins.

Would you agree?

 

[bruceb58]

GY-BL is the one going to the anchor light.

Your sketch didn't come through.

Are you having some sort of problem here or are you just curious how its wired?

Edit: I see in your first post they aren't working. Time to break out the meter! Start by measuring the voltages going into and out of the switches. Then measure voltages at the lights themselves. Be aware that you may have a bad ground. When you measure the voltage at the lights, use the ground there. If you measure no voltage, get a jumper lead and connect the ground of your meter back the the ground bus at your helm.