Hurricane 197
Cadet
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2010
- Messages
- 11
Hello Don and Crew,
I am the second owner 2001 2600 Sea Swirl Striper not one problem for 5 years. I took it to a shop here in SD in Sept of 2010 and they botched the job of replacing the intake manifold and the engine blew up from detonation. They put the distributor in wrong. I pulled the motor myself and replaced with "New" (not re manufactured) Marine Long Block from PPT in Oct. 2010. Boat ran fine for maybe 10 to 15 trips; some trips were 200knm round trip.
In the spring 2011 I started experiencing a foul odor (exhaust) and I had lost a little of the ?Hole Shot? power however the boat still ran good on the top end and I didn't know anything was wrong. Then I was fishing with my son and the motor revved up just a bit and then stalled. It restarted immediately and ran fine for the rest of the day. We spent the night and I shut everything down except the bait pump which I ran on the #2 battery all night. I woke up and turned on both batteries and went to start the engine and I could not keep it running. It would start then stall immediately. Went home did a tune up just for GP and no change in condition. Changed out fuel filter water separator and things improved. Next time I was out it happened again.
This time I change the Fuel Cell, it was whining so I thought this might be the problem it was the original one from the time I bought it in 2005 I went through boat side fuel system and ended up changing the anti siphon valve at the tank pick up for good measures and checked for restriction at the fuel line supply. No restriction. I tried to start the boat and no change. So I pulled what fuel was left in the boat maybe 30 gallons thinking it might be the fuel. Fueled the boat up and came home and the boat started right up.
Thinking everything was good I launched the boat everything was fine. Started right up about 5 hours into the trip the engine lost power and started surging up and down. I went through everything all over again...filter, anti-siphon, opened the gas cap for ventilation checked spark all were OK
I invested in a Rinda Technologies Scan tool to investigate what was going on in the ECM through DLC connector.
Here are the original results.
Code 22 TPS Voltage Too Low
Code 34 MAP Sensor Voltage Too Low
Code 44 Knock Sensor Voltage Too Low or No Signal.
I pulled all the grounds off the engine and grounding block and cleaned them to insure I had a good ground.
I got the boat to run however it is a hard start condition. Cleared all codes and they have not returned. However what I have now is Code 33 MAP Sensor Voltage Too High. This one will not go away and the performance condition is still a hard start/then stall or a no start at all.
Test Results
1 Tested leads from J1 and J2 connectors per MANUAL EF-YEAR EFI DIAGNOSTIC this is the same manual that all Volvo Tech use. Straight from the GM Engineers. Most were good and some were inconclusive to me. Remember I am not real good with electrical.
2 Vacuum reading 18in kph and steady
3 Fuel Cell bad again 18lbs of pressure both sides High & Low replaced under warranty. No change in performance.
4 Disconnect vacuum line from Map Sensor starts right up. Apply 10in of vacuum to map sensor and the fuel injectors (TBI) leans out nicely and run smooth. Idles nice.
5 If I apply the vacuum line to the map sensor for the backside of the TBI as it should be the engine starts crapping out and once it stalls it will not restart. Code 33 will return.
6 Tested map sensor for response and it checks out to be working properly.
7 OBD Diagnostics Inc tested ECM all calibrations are intact/ Bench tested and the ECM responds and works as normal.
8 All fuses are good.
9 MAP Sensors test result Good However 1 test connecting A&C (3pin connector) at the Map with Multi meter (question is) is the voltage higher than 4 volts (key on engine off) answer is yes to check for faulty wire connections at ECM or replace faulty ECM SEE#7
10 Tested ground leads from MAP and ECT Sensor to ECM J2 Good
Parts that are brand new: NO CHANGE IN PERFORMANCE.
DISTRIBUTOR Complete, CAP, ROTOR, PLUG WIRES, COIL, IC MODULE,
PLUGS
TBI
FUEL CELL
NEW BATTERIES
PERFORMED MAINTENANCE.
Fuel tank was cleaned and polished by The Fuel Oil Polishing Company Inc. here in San Diego
Fueled boat with fresh 91 octane.
Cleaned boat harness connector from oxidation male and female.
Any suggestions?
New engine has 180hrs
Engine: 2001 5.7 GSIPEFS TBI Fuel Injection
Model # 4012047287
3868059
Respectfully,
Dean
I am the second owner 2001 2600 Sea Swirl Striper not one problem for 5 years. I took it to a shop here in SD in Sept of 2010 and they botched the job of replacing the intake manifold and the engine blew up from detonation. They put the distributor in wrong. I pulled the motor myself and replaced with "New" (not re manufactured) Marine Long Block from PPT in Oct. 2010. Boat ran fine for maybe 10 to 15 trips; some trips were 200knm round trip.
In the spring 2011 I started experiencing a foul odor (exhaust) and I had lost a little of the ?Hole Shot? power however the boat still ran good on the top end and I didn't know anything was wrong. Then I was fishing with my son and the motor revved up just a bit and then stalled. It restarted immediately and ran fine for the rest of the day. We spent the night and I shut everything down except the bait pump which I ran on the #2 battery all night. I woke up and turned on both batteries and went to start the engine and I could not keep it running. It would start then stall immediately. Went home did a tune up just for GP and no change in condition. Changed out fuel filter water separator and things improved. Next time I was out it happened again.
This time I change the Fuel Cell, it was whining so I thought this might be the problem it was the original one from the time I bought it in 2005 I went through boat side fuel system and ended up changing the anti siphon valve at the tank pick up for good measures and checked for restriction at the fuel line supply. No restriction. I tried to start the boat and no change. So I pulled what fuel was left in the boat maybe 30 gallons thinking it might be the fuel. Fueled the boat up and came home and the boat started right up.
Thinking everything was good I launched the boat everything was fine. Started right up about 5 hours into the trip the engine lost power and started surging up and down. I went through everything all over again...filter, anti-siphon, opened the gas cap for ventilation checked spark all were OK
I invested in a Rinda Technologies Scan tool to investigate what was going on in the ECM through DLC connector.
Here are the original results.
Code 22 TPS Voltage Too Low
Code 34 MAP Sensor Voltage Too Low
Code 44 Knock Sensor Voltage Too Low or No Signal.
I pulled all the grounds off the engine and grounding block and cleaned them to insure I had a good ground.
I got the boat to run however it is a hard start condition. Cleared all codes and they have not returned. However what I have now is Code 33 MAP Sensor Voltage Too High. This one will not go away and the performance condition is still a hard start/then stall or a no start at all.
Test Results
1 Tested leads from J1 and J2 connectors per MANUAL EF-YEAR EFI DIAGNOSTIC this is the same manual that all Volvo Tech use. Straight from the GM Engineers. Most were good and some were inconclusive to me. Remember I am not real good with electrical.
2 Vacuum reading 18in kph and steady
3 Fuel Cell bad again 18lbs of pressure both sides High & Low replaced under warranty. No change in performance.
4 Disconnect vacuum line from Map Sensor starts right up. Apply 10in of vacuum to map sensor and the fuel injectors (TBI) leans out nicely and run smooth. Idles nice.
5 If I apply the vacuum line to the map sensor for the backside of the TBI as it should be the engine starts crapping out and once it stalls it will not restart. Code 33 will return.
6 Tested map sensor for response and it checks out to be working properly.
7 OBD Diagnostics Inc tested ECM all calibrations are intact/ Bench tested and the ECM responds and works as normal.
8 All fuses are good.
9 MAP Sensors test result Good However 1 test connecting A&C (3pin connector) at the Map with Multi meter (question is) is the voltage higher than 4 volts (key on engine off) answer is yes to check for faulty wire connections at ECM or replace faulty ECM SEE#7
10 Tested ground leads from MAP and ECT Sensor to ECM J2 Good
Parts that are brand new: NO CHANGE IN PERFORMANCE.
DISTRIBUTOR Complete, CAP, ROTOR, PLUG WIRES, COIL, IC MODULE,
PLUGS
TBI
FUEL CELL
NEW BATTERIES
PERFORMED MAINTENANCE.
Fuel tank was cleaned and polished by The Fuel Oil Polishing Company Inc. here in San Diego
Fueled boat with fresh 91 octane.
Cleaned boat harness connector from oxidation male and female.
Any suggestions?
New engine has 180hrs
Engine: 2001 5.7 GSIPEFS TBI Fuel Injection
Model # 4012047287
3868059
Respectfully,
Dean