Hi Folks,
I purchased a project boat planning on having a motor rebuild be the extent of the work. Of course, the 180 HP rebuild was ready to go in and I decided to check the transom "just in case." 8 weeks later, I've got the transom out, a false skin built for the new transom (I am going with Seacast polyester resin to keep this from ever happening again). I've got everything out of the boat, deck torn up, and stringers exposed. There was a manufacturing defect that would never allow water to drain out of the port side - no drain holes on that end.
As one would expect, the stringers and crossmembers on that side are pretty soft for the stern quarter and one spot in the fuel tank bay. I was very surprised to see the method of manufacture - only 3/4" treated covered with resin, and glass only in spots for about 6 foot lengths. I was also very surprised to see that most of the sections were not rotten - just where it started in two local spots.
I am planning on buying marine plywood and cutting in sections with a lap joint and glassing in the sections. I have a few questions and would appreciate any help on these questions:
1.) what weight glass can I use (1708 woven roving is what I am planning on) for glassing in the new joints?
2.) Should I bother redoing the good stringer spots just to be sure they stay healthy, or is just resining in wood in spots an accepted method of construction?
3.) There is a massive debate on the site on whether to butt up the ply stringers to the hull - I am planning on putting 1/4" foam under and building up glass around for structural - any boat builder who can help settle this arguement once and for all?
4.) Deck glass - would like to go over 5/8" marine and glass in, what weight glass should I use? Is there any downside to using 1708 for this?
5.) I am considering just spraying gelcoat versus laying down carpet, has anyone done this successfully and if so how did it last?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Ron
I purchased a project boat planning on having a motor rebuild be the extent of the work. Of course, the 180 HP rebuild was ready to go in and I decided to check the transom "just in case." 8 weeks later, I've got the transom out, a false skin built for the new transom (I am going with Seacast polyester resin to keep this from ever happening again). I've got everything out of the boat, deck torn up, and stringers exposed. There was a manufacturing defect that would never allow water to drain out of the port side - no drain holes on that end.
As one would expect, the stringers and crossmembers on that side are pretty soft for the stern quarter and one spot in the fuel tank bay. I was very surprised to see the method of manufacture - only 3/4" treated covered with resin, and glass only in spots for about 6 foot lengths. I was also very surprised to see that most of the sections were not rotten - just where it started in two local spots.
I am planning on buying marine plywood and cutting in sections with a lap joint and glassing in the sections. I have a few questions and would appreciate any help on these questions:
1.) what weight glass can I use (1708 woven roving is what I am planning on) for glassing in the new joints?
2.) Should I bother redoing the good stringer spots just to be sure they stay healthy, or is just resining in wood in spots an accepted method of construction?
3.) There is a massive debate on the site on whether to butt up the ply stringers to the hull - I am planning on putting 1/4" foam under and building up glass around for structural - any boat builder who can help settle this arguement once and for all?
4.) Deck glass - would like to go over 5/8" marine and glass in, what weight glass should I use? Is there any downside to using 1708 for this?
5.) I am considering just spraying gelcoat versus laying down carpet, has anyone done this successfully and if so how did it last?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Ron
