$2,300 in repairs for a 2006 Toyota Avalon?

[bruceb58]

I would look at a video of an Avalon strut replacement. Likely different than a Camry.

 

[hostage]

I watched a few videos on it and I see they install the top bolts first for the strut assembly, then they jack up the bottom of the strut to bolt the bottom in place. It doesn't seem all that difficult. A friend of mine who just did his said that I should have an easy time as I don't have to assemble my struts as they came as a preassembled package. I have no idea when they are going to get here, the wife is waiting impatiently. To be honest I am wondering if I should jack up the front end and leave the car on stands. I could take everything apart so it will be ready for the struts. My biggest fear is rust and sized bolts. DIY is easy in a perfect world, it is all those bad things the videos didn't encounter that throws you off. The shop said nothing bad about the ball joints, when I bought it in. The sway bars links don't look like they are in bad shape, though I plan on replacing them as I hear some people damage them when removing the struts.

Last night I took a can of penetrating oil, paper towels, and wire brushes. I cleaned the hell out of the jam nuts no the tie rods and cleaned the bolts on the struts. I am spraying everything once or twice a day with PB in hopes the jam nuts can be adjusted, when I take it for an alignment.

When I was cleaning the passenger side I noticed the rubber boot on the tierod from the rack and pinion had the bottom shredded on it. It looked a little bit oily on the bottom of the car. The shop I took it to suggested cleaning it, because it was "leaking". Though I think the rack is fine as the reservoir level is good. I think the oil is from this small leak we have in the intake manifold gasket. That leak has been there for years.

I am thinking if they can't readjust the tie rods for the alignment, then we will leave the rack and pinion alone and have them replace the tie rods. I just had to buy a new transmission and radiator on my MDX a few months ago. I want the car safe, though at this point in the cars life, I am hesitant to go out of the way to spend money on it. I really only want a couple more years out of it.

I got everything off amazon, I was about to buy a torque wrench as well, though I noticed the HF had as good ratings as the other ones on Amazon. So picked up a .5" one yesterday.

 

[gm280]

Hostage, any time you are dealing with front suspension, It is advisable to either wait until you have the new parts on hand or take measurement of everything before disassembling anything. WHY? Because even though you will need a new alignment, it is best to get things as close to original as possible to drive the vehicle to the alignment shop. I recently rebuilt the entire front end on my Blazer with everything new. I bought all the Moog suspension parts through Rock Auto for around $400 dollars delivered and there are all life time warranty parts as well. My son an I did the work in my shop with out any problems. JMHO

 

[Volphin]

I would look at a video of an Avalon strut replacement. Likely different than a Camry.

Not that much. I have done both. They are all basically the same.

 

[Volphin]

If the boot is torn on the tie rod end it needs replacing. You do not take chances with steering components. Normally, to replace one you back off the jam nut (this will be somewhat tight) and then remove the cotter pin from the top of the tie rod. Then remove the castle nut 1/2 way. Next take a large hammer and whack the steering knuckle where the tie rod shaft is wedged. It may take a few hits. The tie rod will drop and then you can remove the nut completely and unscrew the tie rod end. COUNT the number of revolutions as you remove it (counterclockwise). Install the new one the exact number of turns. Pop on the the castle nut and tighten, then install the cotter pin. Tighten the jam nut. Proceed to the alignment shop.

 

[hostage]

If the boot is torn on the tie rod end it needs replacing. You do not take chances with steering components. Normally, to replace one you back off the jam nut (this will be somewhat tight) and then remove the cotter pin from the top of the tie rod. Then remove the castle nut 1/2 way. Next take a large hammer and whack the steering knuckle where the tie rod shaft is wedged. It may take a few hits. The tie rod will drop and then you can remove the nut completely and unscrew the tie rod end. COUNT the number of revolutions as you remove it (counterclockwise). Install the new one the exact number of turns. Pop on the the castle nut and tighten, then install the cotter pin. Tighten the jam nut. Proceed to the alignment shop.

It isn't torn from the tie rod, there are a few tears along the bottom edges though still one whole boot. If I have to replace the boot, do I have to add more grease?

 

[Volphin]

I'm not sure you can get just the boot? These are sealed units from the factory without zerk fittings for greasing. Aftermarket ones may or may not come with a fitting. If it has one, grease it. If not, it is pre greased.

 

[hostage]

I found boots that looks like you just fasten it with a clip. I just assumed you removed tie rod, slipped it on and then grease it up. Then again what do I know lol.

 

[jkust]

I got a breaker bar, deep socket metric set, and torque wrench (all 1/2"). I also got strut assembly, links, pads, rotors, and some other items for the project. I am going to try to organize my work space so I don't have to spend time looking for it.

I'm sure you are on this already, but youtube is great for this. I have an aircompressor and full set of air tools and the impact wrench wouldn't even take off the lug nuts...the compressor looks impressive but the stats tell a different story.

 

[Volphin]

I'm sure you are on this already, but youtube is great for this. I have an aircompressor and full set of air tools and the impact wrench wouldn't even take off the lug nuts...the compressor looks impressive but the stats tell a different story.

That sounds like a wimpy air gun!

 

[hostage]

I'm sure you are on this already, but youtube is great for this. I have an aircompressor and full set of air tools and the impact wrench wouldn't even take off the lug nuts...the compressor looks impressive but the stats tell a different story.

Yeah, that is why I didn't go that route. My compressor is great for filling tires and small nailers. Though I could out pace it with a frame nailer that I borrowed for a project. It would be a hard sell to get my wife to agree for at least $300+ in new tools and I don't know how she would like a larger compressor in our garage. That is why I went with a $20 breaker bar instead. At some point I will go with a slightly larger compressor, though now isn't the time.

Everything but the struts arrive today. I wonder if I should change the brakes or wait for the struts to come in on Thursday. Is it easier to work with, when the rotor is off? Everything looks like it is accessible w/o getting under the car, granted the sway bar links might be more of a challange to get to.

 

[gm280]

Yeah, that is why I didn't go that route. My compressor is great for filling tires and small nailers. Though I could out pace it with a frame nailer that I borrowed for a project. It would be a hard sell to get my wife to agree for at least $300+ in new tools and I don't know how she would like a larger compressor in our garage. That is why I went with a $20 breaker bar instead. At some point I will go with a slightly larger compressor, though now isn't the time.

Everything but the struts arrive today. I wonder if I should change the brakes or wait for the struts to come in on Thursday. Is it easier to work with, when the rotor is off? Everything looks like it is accessible w/o getting under the car, granted the sway bar links might be more of a challange to get to.

hostage, please what ever you do, do NOT get near the car or under it without a few jack stands supporting it. I personally know what happens when a jack fails and comes down on a person. I will not even contemplate working on anything now without lots of backup supports.

 

[hostage]

hostage, please what ever you do, do NOT get near the car or under it without a few jack stands supporting it. I personally know what happens when a jack fails and comes down on a person. I will not even contemplate working on anything now without lots of backup supports.

Thanks for the heads up, I usually use 2 jack stands and use the jack as as backup. I actually lower the car onto the stands, and keep the jack there. Sometimes I even throw the wheel under for good measure. I am very scared and anxious about an accident. I am also sorry you have personal experience in that situation.

 

[jkust]

Good point on the jack stands. Back in the day, a kid in my high school died at 16 not using jack stands to change his oil. That never leaves your mind. I won't actually go under a car at all which is why I have only changed brakes and rotors. Just thinking out loud here but are the sway bar links removable or are they rusty and not able to be put back on once taken off? Have had many a sway bar link go bad over the years.

 

[hostage]

Good point on the jack stands. Back in the day, a kid in my high school died at 16 not using jack stands to change his oil. That never leaves your mind. I won't actually go under a car at all which is why I have only changed brakes and rotors. Just thinking out loud here but are the sway bar links removable or are they rusty and not able to be put back on once taken off? Have had many a sway bar link go bad over the years.

I am no fan going under the car, in fact I hate changing oil. Messy, can't just toss it in the trash, and you aren't really saving money on it by doing it yourself. The reason I am replacing sway bar links is that they aren't all that expensive and that I hear a lot of them do not fair well, after removing the suspension on a car this old in the rustbelt.

 

[bruceb58]

Did you buy a ball joint separator to remove the stabilizer links?

You want o be very careful of the ABS sensor. You may actually want to remove it and tie wrap it up out of the way so you don't strain the wire and the reinstall when you are done. Don't ask me why I am telling you this

 

[hostage]

Did you buy a ball joint separator to remove the stabilizer links?

You want o be very careful of the ABS sensor. You may actually want to remove it and tie wrap it up out of the way so you don't strain the wire and the reinstall when you are done. Don't ask me why I am telling you this

Bah! You are kidding me, I thought I just remove the bolt? Does this differ on different cars?

Thanks for the point, I will use some zip ties, to hold it and not the wire.

 

[hostage]

I started looking into it, people recommend using a box wrench or allen to prevent it from spinning. Some people fussed with it for a while, before using a sawsall to cut it away. I saw no mention about ball joint stabilizer link.

 

[bruceb58]

Bah! You are kidding me, I thought I just remove the bolt? Does this differ on different cars?

Thanks for the point, I will use some zip ties, to hold it and not the wire.

Some cars have much different stabilizer links. The one on the Avalon has a tapered fit just like a ball joint. The tie rod end may have the same issue. You might get lucky and they fall right out.

Regarding the ABS sensor, on some cars you can stress the wire taking the strut out. My point was to just remove it temporarily from the hub and zip tie it out of the way. The zip tie can go on the wire if not done tightly.

 

[hostage]

I am thinking about holding off on the stabilizer links. The ones I got have paint flaking off the back. Living in the rust belt, I am scared if this might be worst than keeping the old ones on.