richw46
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2008
- Messages
- 118
It's firing on all 4 cylinders, I just didn't understand the 2+2 idea, if the timing light is blinking for each cylinder at idle. racerone says the bottom 2 don't get fuel so that makes sense, it would still be making spark. It idles OK.
I took it down to the lake yesterday. It started on the first crank and idled OK. I took a run down the lake; 47 on the speedo, 45.8 on the GPS. I fished further down the lake another couple of miles, then made a full run back to the dock; 48 on the speedo and 46.9 on the GPS.
From idle through no wake to half throttle up to WOT, there is no missing. Sometimes, when it first starts, even warmed up, it may "sneeze" (for lack of a better term), then it starts. Coming from a long run up to the dock, then just a slow idle up to the dock, then reversing, it can die, starts up again, however. (The only time it's been hard starting is when I put dielectric grease on the sparkplug connection. I wiped that off and there have been no starting problems since then. Now dielectric goes only on the boot and ceramic area.)
Since I'm hitting 48, mostly flat water on a straight run, I'm not going to worry about it anymore. I could have the carbs rebuilt for $600 to $900 but for what? 5 MPH? I think I'll just be happy and spend more time fishing, less time trying to squeeze another 5 MPH out of a well running engine.
Thanks everyone for your help. I've learned about 2+2 and how to do a compression test. I may yet check the timing but unless that needed to be adjusted when the voltage regulator was replaced, it should still be at factory.
I took it down to the lake yesterday. It started on the first crank and idled OK. I took a run down the lake; 47 on the speedo, 45.8 on the GPS. I fished further down the lake another couple of miles, then made a full run back to the dock; 48 on the speedo and 46.9 on the GPS.
From idle through no wake to half throttle up to WOT, there is no missing. Sometimes, when it first starts, even warmed up, it may "sneeze" (for lack of a better term), then it starts. Coming from a long run up to the dock, then just a slow idle up to the dock, then reversing, it can die, starts up again, however. (The only time it's been hard starting is when I put dielectric grease on the sparkplug connection. I wiped that off and there have been no starting problems since then. Now dielectric goes only on the boot and ceramic area.)
Since I'm hitting 48, mostly flat water on a straight run, I'm not going to worry about it anymore. I could have the carbs rebuilt for $600 to $900 but for what? 5 MPH? I think I'll just be happy and spend more time fishing, less time trying to squeeze another 5 MPH out of a well running engine.
Thanks everyone for your help. I've learned about 2+2 and how to do a compression test. I may yet check the timing but unless that needed to be adjusted when the voltage regulator was replaced, it should still be at factory.