........ What is the stator anyway? Is there a sure fire method of testing my MPEM to make sure it is the culprit. I have seen the list of ohm values for all the 8 wires of the MPEM and done the test. Btw my MPEM is 278000413. They are pretty much in line with what the list says. With everything disconnected and the MPEM removed from the box, can I apply power (-) to the black ground wire and (+) to the red wire (the one that was connected to the solenoid) and see if the fuse blows. And if it does I would think that the fault has been clearly estabished, or am I overlooking something and this test is misleading.
If you can perform this test with the MPEM removed from the ski and the fuse DOES blow, then you can pretty much assume the MPEM is toast. Now, if you are a betting man, you could try to see if you can remove the potting compound and search for a blown diode. Over on PWCtoday.com, there have been a few threads about people fixing their dead MPEMs because a $4 diode shorted out.
To answer your question about the stator: It is the component that sits underneath the rotating flywheel in the front of the motor. There is only a static resistance test for the stator to see if it has shorted internally. As the magnets embedded in the flywheel rotate around the stator when the engine is running, Alternating Current is induced into the stator coil (a stator is just a coil of wires around a iron core). Since the battery is charged by Direct Current, the A.C current from the stator must be rectified and regulated into about 13.5 volts DC for use by the MPEM and for battery charging. Your car operates the same way, only the Stator and Voltage regulator (along with a Rotor) are all self contained inside your car's Alternator.
Just FYI, for your year ski, there is a second coil that looks like a stator, but is actually the charging coil for the Capacitive Discharge Ignition (CDI) system. The manual will illustrate it better than I can describe.
Normally,
if the motor is still in good physical condition, the three most common issues that plague most all pre-2000 Sea-Doo's are: 1) Fuel system issues caused by Tempo fuel lines falling apart internally and clogging the INTERNAL carburetor micro filters. 2) Original OEM voltage regulators going bad for various reasons. 3) Engine Starting and Charging issues caused by corroded or loose grounding points, cheap aftermarket Chinese starters, and failed starter solenoids.\
The key to this issue is to see if you can run the ski for about 5-10 minutes without having the voltage regulator hooked up. This means unplugging the Red wire coming out of it from inside the electrical box. This way, you are running straight off the battery without the possibility of any stray AC current "leaking" through a failed charging system. If the ski runs fine, and you don't blow a fuse, then you can troubleshoot further into a bad stator or voltage regulator or both.
Download a FREE service manual for your ski from
www.seadoomanuals.net