1991 StarCraft Islander 221v - with 4.3 v6 i/o conversion to bracket and total resto

[Rich11304]

Patched holes in the hull today using "all metal". Very good but working time is about 3 minutes in 80 degree. Started sanding the inside of the hull. An hour here and hour there. It'll take me a few days.

 

[dozerII]

Real nice job on the transom, it should last for ever with the process you used to seal it up.

 

[Tnstratofam]

^^^ Yeah I agree that transom will last longer than any of us will. Nice work.

 

[64osby]

Have you used alternate products to the All-Metal? How did they compare?

Marine Tex, JB weld .....

 

[Rich11304]

64osby- I have used marine tex,
JB Weld, Epoxo 88 etc. I remembered using it on a previous project and I like the fact that it has aluminum in it. Will be filling up more holes and crevasses today.

 

[Rich11304]

Update - With the Holidays, the project took a back seat. I cleaned up the inside of the hull and plugged all the holes with "All Metal". I also did the seriously pitted areas. Thank God my son Bryan helped me. Yesterday I gave the second coat of "Gluvit" on the inside. Today, I ordered my primer "Aluthane" from Paul in New Hampshire. I should have it by next Tuesday. I'll try to post a picture of the "gluvit" but I don't think it will be very exciting.

 

[sprintst]

Nice transom work. Should be able to take a torpedo strike there and not blink.

 

[Rich11304]

Sprintst - Transom is heavy and solid. Every time I had extra epoxy/gluvit I used it to seal the edges. As an experiment, I applied three coats of epoxy with final coat of Gluvit on three hockey pucks. I'm now using them to practice my slap shots. After 5 slap shots against sheets of ply wood 45 ft away and bouncing back against the asphalt, the epoxy is holding strong.

 

[Tnstratofam]

That is a torture test on the epoxy for sure!

 

[Rich11304]

Boat is off the trailer.

 

[Rich11304]

More updates - Epoxied the bunks and installed new rollers.

 

[Rich11304]

 

[Rich11304]

 

[Rich11304]

More holes. The good news is that thee have not gone thru. I have been patching them with JB Water Weld.

 

[Rich11304]

Hull paint removal update.

 

[Tnstratofam]

The trailer looks like it's going to be nice. I'm no expert, but I would probably drill out and replace the rivets that have corrosion around them. It may be difficult to seal them from the outside, and eliminate them from corroding between the rivets and the hull. The paint removal looks like no fun at all, but you are certainly making good progress.

 

[Rich11304]

Tnstratofam - Paint removal is a pain. I should be finished by Friday. I'm filling all the crevices with JB Water Weld, including those close to the rivets. I was planning of applying three coats of Gluvit to the outside. Remember I applied two coats of Gluvit on the inside as well. One of my neighbors has complained to Code Compliance so I might have to out boat on trailer on Sunday

 

[Watermann]

Oh the grunt work of sealing up all the little imperfections that come along over the years. I sure hope you end up leak free, It drives me crazy to see any water in the bilge even if it isn't even enough to kick on the pump after 8 hours on the water. That 2 part stick JB works great for filling those pits in and it sands great if done shortly after it cures.

So is that pitting from where the boat say on the bunks? I can't really tell from the pics.

 

[Rich11304]

Waterman - Yes. Most of the pittings can from the area were trailer bunk touched the boat which is why I removed the fire hoses that use to cover them. The new plastic cover should make a big difference. I'm debating if I should glue the plastic covers or secure them with screws on the sides. I hate to make holes in wood if I don't have to.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah you would have to use a bunch of screws to keep the covering secure from tearing the screws out. I would try using some PL premium polyurethane I think it's good for plastics too.