1989 120hp looper not firing #1 cyl after stator, timer base and powerpack change

[countvlad]

2 weeks ago i had issues with cyl #1 not firing. Bought a new ignition coil and didnt fix the problem. Started troubleshooting and by the time i was done, out of 3 good cylinders one was the only one firing right. Since unsure when the electronics were changed last time, I ended up buying and replacing the ignition switch, stator, timer base and powerpack(all CDI). While I had the flywheel off i checked the magnets. Unlike other posts and pictures of flywheels that i've seen, the magnets are embedded into the flywheel. They did not look cracked or bad just slightly corroded/rusted. My guess its normal for the age of the engine. I clean/sanded down the rust and put the flywheel back on.

Put everything back together last night and cylinder #1 is still not firing (checked using spark gap tester, 7/16"). I switched the powerpack ignition coil wire from cyl #1 to #3 and #1 fired where #3 did not. So i know its not the coil the problem. Before i replaced the old ignition switch and electronics I followed the CDI troubleshooting procedures but nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I had the kill switch disconnected, checked for grounding, resistance (stator, timer base, ignition coils) and conducted DVA voltage test.

I was thinking today to check the primary voltage out of the powerpack going to the #1 ignition coil. If nothing there i was going to check the timer base voltage for that cylinder and if voltage there i'm guessing the new powerpack might be bad.

Thoughts?Suggestions? anything else to try?

Thank you

forgot to mention: compression is 135 PSI on all cylinders

 

[jakedaawg]

Call cdi they stand behind their product (a little too often unfortunately) and have good customer service.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Spark plugs should be removed when doing a spark test as the engine must crank over at least 300 rpm for the stator to generate the proper AC voltage to the powerpack capacitor, needed for the pack to be energized.