CoachHolland
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Messages
- 165
Hey all. First time boat owner here and I've been nothing but impressed by the knowledge I've seen on these forums after reading up over the last few days. I wanted to make sure I at least had some knowledge of boats and what certain parts are called before I came on here an made myself look like a complete dolt. This will be a long post, so thanks for taking the time to go through the whole thing and addressing any questions. 
<br /><br />First off, the problem that I'm having. I recently purchased a 1988 Bayliner Capri 1700 with a 88 Force 85 HP outboard. Standard equipment on it. It had been sitting for at least one season because the tags on it hadn't been renewed since 2002. The engine itself is immaculate. It is clean as can be, no corrosion on any wires or parts. I simply cannot get the thing started. All it will do is somewhat act like it wants to start by using the primer bulb while someone else turns it over, but it soon floods out after a bit. Occassionally, I will get a bit of a backfire as well.<br /><br />The story of what I've done so far. Went out and bought a new battery. The tank had been sitting on empty, so I added 6 1/4 gallons of gas and one pint of outboard oil for the specified 50:1 ratio. Newbie mistake (I'm assuming here) because I added the gas first, then the oil, so I'm sure it didn't mix. The Bayliner does not have a portable tank, it is at the transom. I have since drove the boat on the trailer a bit, so I'm sure it's probably mixed itself by now.<br /><br />The primer bulb gets hard after several squeezes, but isn't quite filled after trying to start the engine. The primer bulb is in new condition. All the gas lines look good as well. Checked the plugs and they were black and a bit wet after flooding the engine out. Changed those out to new Champion center fire plugs. The plugs do seem to be getting good fire.<br /><br />Pulled the gas filter and gas is coming through fine with no sediment. Pulled the fuel pump (I think) and the diaphram is a bit warped, so I'm going to need a rebuild kit for it. Not so much so though that it would keep the engine from starting completely though, right? I don't know.<br /><br />Pulled the carbs and they and bulbs underneath got a good going over with some carb cleaner. Float needles don't appear to be sticking. Choke is closing completely as well. Blew everything out with an air hose as well to make sure there were no clogs.<br /><br />Checked all wiring on the engine itself and I *think* everything is good on it. Like I said, the Force looks brand new inside and out. No corrosion what-so-ever, but I did put a little dialectic grease on the contact points I pulled as well as the plugs. There is one thing that is questionable though. There is an extra red wire with a black casing around it (with a female connector from what I remember off the top of my head) that is not plugged into anything. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, whether it be a test line for a diagnostics machine or whatever. Whatever it is, there isn't anything to attach it to that is left undone.<br /><br />Anyway, I've been reading all the way back to page 30 on this board regarding these engines and from what I've seen, the only things I can think of that would be a problem on the engine would be one of a few things.<br /><br />1. The slightly warped diapram on the fuel pump.<br /><br />2. Timing could possible be off? From what I've read here it should be between 28-32 degrees. I have no idea if this is the case because I don't have a timing light and honestly, I'm nor certain how to check or set the timing on these motors.<br /><br />3. Low compression dure to a badly carbed engine. I've read on here how to do the decarb process, but if the engine isn't starting, I don't know I would decarb it since it is supposed to run for "x" amount of time to flush it out.<br /><br />Anyway, I'm going to buy the fuel pump rebuild kit and a new impeller as well just to be safe. I've been trying to get ahold of a local boat shop to get them to check the timing and compression.<br /><br />Is there anything else I'm missing here or do I pretty much have everything covered as far as what could be wrong with it not starting.
<br /><br />First off, the problem that I'm having. I recently purchased a 1988 Bayliner Capri 1700 with a 88 Force 85 HP outboard. Standard equipment on it. It had been sitting for at least one season because the tags on it hadn't been renewed since 2002. The engine itself is immaculate. It is clean as can be, no corrosion on any wires or parts. I simply cannot get the thing started. All it will do is somewhat act like it wants to start by using the primer bulb while someone else turns it over, but it soon floods out after a bit. Occassionally, I will get a bit of a backfire as well.<br /><br />The story of what I've done so far. Went out and bought a new battery. The tank had been sitting on empty, so I added 6 1/4 gallons of gas and one pint of outboard oil for the specified 50:1 ratio. Newbie mistake (I'm assuming here) because I added the gas first, then the oil, so I'm sure it didn't mix. The Bayliner does not have a portable tank, it is at the transom. I have since drove the boat on the trailer a bit, so I'm sure it's probably mixed itself by now.<br /><br />The primer bulb gets hard after several squeezes, but isn't quite filled after trying to start the engine. The primer bulb is in new condition. All the gas lines look good as well. Checked the plugs and they were black and a bit wet after flooding the engine out. Changed those out to new Champion center fire plugs. The plugs do seem to be getting good fire.<br /><br />Pulled the gas filter and gas is coming through fine with no sediment. Pulled the fuel pump (I think) and the diaphram is a bit warped, so I'm going to need a rebuild kit for it. Not so much so though that it would keep the engine from starting completely though, right? I don't know.<br /><br />Pulled the carbs and they and bulbs underneath got a good going over with some carb cleaner. Float needles don't appear to be sticking. Choke is closing completely as well. Blew everything out with an air hose as well to make sure there were no clogs.<br /><br />Checked all wiring on the engine itself and I *think* everything is good on it. Like I said, the Force looks brand new inside and out. No corrosion what-so-ever, but I did put a little dialectic grease on the contact points I pulled as well as the plugs. There is one thing that is questionable though. There is an extra red wire with a black casing around it (with a female connector from what I remember off the top of my head) that is not plugged into anything. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, whether it be a test line for a diagnostics machine or whatever. Whatever it is, there isn't anything to attach it to that is left undone.<br /><br />Anyway, I've been reading all the way back to page 30 on this board regarding these engines and from what I've seen, the only things I can think of that would be a problem on the engine would be one of a few things.<br /><br />1. The slightly warped diapram on the fuel pump.<br /><br />2. Timing could possible be off? From what I've read here it should be between 28-32 degrees. I have no idea if this is the case because I don't have a timing light and honestly, I'm nor certain how to check or set the timing on these motors.<br /><br />3. Low compression dure to a badly carbed engine. I've read on here how to do the decarb process, but if the engine isn't starting, I don't know I would decarb it since it is supposed to run for "x" amount of time to flush it out.<br /><br />Anyway, I'm going to buy the fuel pump rebuild kit and a new impeller as well just to be safe. I've been trying to get ahold of a local boat shop to get them to check the timing and compression.<br /><br />Is there anything else I'm missing here or do I pretty much have everything covered as far as what could be wrong with it not starting.
