1985 140 melted statorl

[Blazinmonkey]

the first sign was the tachometer stopped working a few years ago. used/ran the motor all season - runs great, starts right up, idles nice, no cough or sneeze. just a slight stumble at full throttle. never a problem charging the battery. then after a long day idling the motor started to lose power on the way home. when i looked under the cowl i saw a lot of back dust. pulled the flywheel and one melted contact.

 

[jakedaawg]

I am gonna go out on a limb here but I would bet that you also will find high resistance in you engine side wire harness

 

[emdsapmgr]

Are the large red/black battery cable ends absolutely tight on both ends of the cables? Is the combination rectifier/regulator fried also?

 

[sutor623]

Is the combination rectifier/regulator fried also?

I'm sure it is!! My guess is he has been slowly cooking the stator since his tach stopped working. Better get a new rectifier also OP.

 

[Blazinmonkey]

thanks for the replies. glad I posted.

`I am gonna go out on a limb here but I would bet that you also will find high resistance in you engine side wire harness'
what is the best way to check? All the wires look clean at the connections. Would it be better just to replace the whole thing? I see it listed as unavailable in the parts listings. Where would be the best most economical place to get a new harness?

`Are the large red/black battery cable ends absolutely tight on both ends of the cables?'
yes. Wrenched on tight, clean and in the plastic battery box. Engine side wires are also tight.

`Is the combination rectifier/regulator fried also?'
The battery is charged. The volt meter on the dash reads good but its from 1985. Would the battery still charge with a bad rectifier/regulator?

 

[Chinewalker]

That almost looks like a mechanical failure, with the dust present. Is there ANY side-to-side motion or play in the crankshaft? An upper main bearing failure might allow the crankshaft to move enough where the flywheel contacts the stator. Also possible an errant loose bolt or washer got sucked into the magnet and got caught between the flywheel and stator.

 

[sutor623]

That almost looks like a mechanical failure, with the dust present. Is there ANY side-to-side motion or play in the crankshaft? An upper main bearing failure might allow the crankshaft to move enough where the flywheel contacts the stator. Also possible an errant loose bolt or washer got sucked into the magnet and got caught between the flywheel and stator.

I guess he could tell by looking at the inside of the flywheel and seeing if it has abnormal signs of wear.

 

[Blazinmonkey]

No Title

`ANY side-to-side motion or play in the crankshaft'
No none at all. Feels tight and solid like it should. I attached top down picture to show the melted plastic better and also a pic of the far side where you can see the shinny plastic finding its way out. I think that is what caused the mess.
the under side of the flywheel looks good for the age. I see signs of the pant peeling that is about it.
Thanks.

 

[Blazinmonkey]

No Title

Timer base...
Note: pic 1 is at idel. - pic 2 full timer advance. - pic 3 full throttle.

I am just quetioning if the timer base looks correct. I never paid much attention to it. I have no reason to think its wrong just thought I would ask while I have it apart to get at. Thanks.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Usually, the timer base is one of the more reliable crossflow ignition components. They work forever. Finally may crap out and misfire on one or more plugs. They make an electrical test for that component, just like they do for the stator.

 

[Blazinmonkey]

Thanks for the reply emd...
I was asking more about the mechanical travel of the base.
see how much more the thottle `travels' after the full advance of the timer base.
thanks.