1982 Evinrude XP 150 Missing and running bad

[Bosunsmate]

Gees thats a long long question to answer, best you look up videos on the internet about it. All you a doing is that each cylinder is firing near abouts on TDC but with wot being ok at timing and no major deviations on your drop test then its not probably going to show anything like a cylinder firing out of time.
So that indicates back to it being a fuel problem.
You might need to take a video to show your motor at idle and whats happening, with the cowling off of course.
Ive forgotten if you have tried manually priming the fuel bulb to act as a fuel pump

 

[Jackfrost913]

Copy that about the timing. It's just a weird thing that's going on. Adding fuel to the carbs makes it ideal down. Tells me that I have an air leak of some sort. Kinda been thinking about the rebuilds I did on the pumps. What would happen is one of the diaphragm has torn or punctured a hole? Can't see how that would increase rpms. Just brain storming I guess.

 

[racerone]

Checked for a sheared flywheel key ?

 

[Bosunsmate]

Copy that about the timing. It's just a weird thing that's going on. Adding fuel to the carbs makes it ideal down. Tells me that I have an air leak of some sort. Kinda been thinking about the rebuilds I did on the pumps. What would happen is one of the diaphragm has torn or punctured a hole? Can't see how that would increase rpms. Just brain storming I guess.

i suppose that would leak air and or fuel into the crankcase and make rpms increase.
Has this motor ever run right while you have had it?

 

[Jackfrost913]

Yes. Before I replaced one power pack greased the timer base seat ring thing. It was running rough and intermittent and only at 3000 rpms. But when I pushed in the key (primer) it would come alive and run great. 5000+ rpms and around 50mph. Very smooth. Let off primer and back running rough. Greased timer base and replaced power pack on starboard due to no fire above 2200rpm and now this. Always runs at 3000 rpm on muffs. So guessing it'll run somewhere between 2500 and 2800 in the water. Haven't tested that yet.

 

[racerone]

Did you torque the flywheel nut ??---Have you checked for a sheared key?

 

[Jackfrost913]

I haven't had the opportunity yet. Still at work. Will check first thing when I get home in a couple hours. Kinda off subject from the fly wheel but was doing some research and found some stuff on the idle air bleeds in the carbs. I've never removed those and inspected them during cleaning. Would those for some reason be bad or can they go bad and cause high rpms?

 

[racerone]

Did you say that your idle speed suddenly went to 3000 rpm ?-------------Idle air bleeds usually do not change all of a sudden.

 

[Jackfrost913]

Freaking cool. Racerone you're awesome. Came home and removed the flywheel. Sure enough. Key sheared right off and flywheel was rotated on the shaft some. I'm guessing that why I'm having these high idle problems. Would have never guessed that. Racerone thank you so much. Will fix probably Sunday afternoon and post the outcome.

 

[Jackfrost913]

Ok I have looked high and low for the torque specs for the flywheel.
1982 Evinrude xp150
E150TRLCNM.
If anyone has or knows it it would be wonderful.

 

[Faztbullet]

Lap the flywheel before replacing key and then install and tighten to 125ft lbs.NEVER use a air impact as the jarring can knock magnets loose.....

 

[Bosunsmate]

Thats good news, one thing though you need to relearn how to check timing as theres no way timing is right with a sheared key and rotated

 

[racerone]

Timing light will show timing as " perfect " with a sheared key !!

 

[Jackfrost913]

Copy that. Planning on rechecking the timing going any further. I'm sure its not 100% with that sheared key. Faztbullet Yes I did read not to use air to tighten up that nut but my service manual calls for 140ft Lbs. Would 140 be to much?

 

[racerone]

Timing light will show that timing is " perfect " on the timing marks with a sheared key.----Pistons will not be in the right place, but timing light will show perfect on the flywheel timing marks.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Timing light will show that timing is " perfect " on the timing marks with a sheared key.----Pistons will not be in the right place, but timing light will show perfect on the flywheel timing marks.

Oh yes i suppose it would, just shows that you must check piston number 1 is at TDC when flywheel is, as part of the timing procedure then too

 

[racerone]

Yes, physically checking the timing mark for piston # 1 at TDC is step # 1 on any of the electronic ignition motors.

 

[Jackfrost913]

Well guys I installed the new flywheel key and torqued the flywheel down to specs. Haven't timed it yet (got to get that light back again) but I did start it on muffs and let it run for a few. Ran great. Rpms are back down to 1100. Ran really smooth. Soon as I get that light back I'll do a lake test and let y'all know how it turns out. Thanks for everyone's help on this short bumpy road.

 

[racerone]

Hopefully you installed a new factory key.

 

[Jackfrost913]

Update. Last night got inpatient and took the boat out for a quick lake test without checking the timing. Yes I know. Dumb. But it ran great. Better then it ever has. Very smooth and great throttle response. Idled up and down very good. Had a little hesitation at WOT. Only had it on the water for about 15 minutes. This morning checked the timing advance at WOT with a light. Started out doing fine but then light quit. Check spark. No spark. Messed with it and noticed at low idle the starboard side had spark but at wot that side stops. I've replaced the starboard powerpack with a brand new one. Could this be a timer base problem or a stator problem? That the only thing left I haven't tested or replaced.