1980's Hydro Glass Restoration Project

kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 10, 2016
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303
Still cracking! Planning for a June splash. (Only a year late, woot!)


Stern loops. tabbed in 17oz and the 6oz over it - beefed it up for towing sports!
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Foam!
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kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 10, 2016
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303
Starting to get the deck sealed in.

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Had done some fairing and sanding before laying that second layer of 60oz fiberglass, made it far easier and ended up with zero trapped air spots, used too much epoxy here - but oh well, I'll sand it a bit anyway.
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Fairing the transom and bilge for paint.
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kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 10, 2016
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303
Still at it!

Popped the top cap on to align it so I could rebuild the motorwell, previously I had mistakenly made the transom a half inch too thick, no big deal all in all just needed to cut out the motorwell on the top cap to get a proper fit that accounts for this new thickness so the cap could fit.
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Off the bat not looking too good, but the conclusion I came to is that the cap comes to a much greater fit when I through bolt the two caps at the rear and get the aft of the top cap pushed forward, and the sides toward the front of the top cap pushed up and the weight sitting on bolts, this allows the bow of the cap to flex and easily bend into place, so no cutting will be needed, hopefully!


Here is where I mounted the cut motorwell transom piece flush to the transom and in alignment with the motorwell, and laid out some glass!
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Then I removed the cap once everything is in perfect alignment, so I could have some greater access to put proper reinforcement material.
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Got to glassing out the deck as well, I did some epoxy fairing over the 17oz tabbing to both smooth over the threads of the 17oz glass to make it easier to lay 6oz over it, and to fill in low spots and have a smoother transition between hull and deck.
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and here we are all glassed (two layers of 6oz drown in epoxy, too much epoxy if you ask me) and surface sanded all over in prep for finishing.
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Next is to grind off that old carpet adhesive on the sides of the hull, then flip it and paint it!
 
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kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
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8,605
On the thumbs up is that your fingernail polish? :watermelon:
Only kidding nothing like support from the Admiral!!
 

kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 10, 2016
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303
On the thumbs up is that your fingernail polish? :watermelon:
Only kidding nothing like support from the Admiral!!

Haha, every now and then I convince or otherwise trick her into helping me :p

Odds are she'll benefit more from me owning a boat anyway, as it is better to have a friend with a boat!
 

kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 10, 2016
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303
Got some repairs and fairing done on the top cap to prep it for paint
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Questions for anybody who may have experience, with @Woodonglass tractor paint method: what I didn't see specified in the post was what's a good grit to sand to for primer (entire hull is sanded to 80grit) then what's a good grit to sand cured primer (should I need to knock it down a but or fill pitting or anything), and what's the deal on clear coat? I did buy the rustoleum clear coat with the tractor paint but I'm unaware of IF I need it or what the thinning is for HVLP application.

Thanks much folks!
 

kcon

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Dec 10, 2016
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Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures of the *attempt* to flip the hull, turns out ~10 gallons of epoxy, plus the weight of a bunch of fiberglass and dense wood, is too much to safely flip lol.

Here was the plan: (excuse the crude graphic lol)
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Hang the hull from two points, the bow eye, and the two stern eyes centered to one rope. Pulley the boat to suspend it in the air, which was successful, then rotate the hull around the two points and lower it - once the hull was suspended between two trees with rope, it didn't appear as if flipping it would be easy or safe, and even more challenging would be flipping it back over after paint.


SO, I instead opted for a wood cradle about 4 feet off the ground to do hull repairs/fairing and paint it.
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kcon

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Dec 10, 2016
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303
Gelcoat!

So despite the lack of necessity for the application of gelcoat on my deck, and the varying information on the capabilities and properties of gelcoat when applied over West System epoxy, I had a quart of gelcoat and wanted to test it out for myself.


So the goals here were as follows, my hull is outside in the sun while I work on it - exposed to UV, now UV exposure isn't going to hurt west system epoxy short term (couple weeks?), but I figured it can't hurt to cover it up - plus it looks nice all fresh and white and that has some motivation value lol. Also, worth considering gelcoat in some way or another will add a small extra layer of water protection, do I need it? No.



So I prepped the deck surface as per the instructions and recommendation of Andy from BoatWorksToday, and it seems to have come out really good, either which way it's going under carpet...


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kcon

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Dec 10, 2016
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Enjoying the Hudson River from the dock, really itching to get this boat out!

Sanding and fairing this weekend, paint next, then assembly.
 

kcon

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Dec 10, 2016
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Some hull fairing with total boat total fair. Some sanded, some fresh.

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Sanded the entire hull down with 80 to break into the surface, going to hit it with 120 then 220 before primer.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Got any friends? Bribe em with Beer and have em help you flip her over. MUCHO easier to paint when she's bottoms up!!:)
 

kcon

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Dec 10, 2016
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303
Got any friends? Bribe em with Beer and have em help you flip her over. MUCHO easier to paint when she's bottoms up!!:)

Tried it! It's at around 400-600lbs, and the issue is the gunwales of the hull don't have the thickness or rigidity to maintain any of that weight, in trying to flip it at some point it would be supported by them until I got the deck propped on saw horses, I'm worried it would damage it, then flipping it back over with fresh paint on it...



I have it high enough off the ground that I'm not TOO worried about painting it like so. It'll just be annoying to move the supports after the paint has cured and blend in the unpainted spots.
 

Timr71

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Jul 19, 2012
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326
Nice work! Just read your entire thread...I'm along for the ride the rest of the way. Hopefully it's only a short time from here to the water for you.
 

Woodonglass

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Joined
Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Questions for anybody who may have experience, with @Woodonglass tractor paint method: what I didn't see specified in the post was what's a good grit to sand to for primer (entire hull is sanded to 80grit) then what's a good grit to sand cured primer (should I need to knock it down a but or fill pitting or anything), and what's the deal on clear coat? I did buy the rustoleum clear coat with the tractor paint but I'm unaware of IF I need it or what the thinning is for HVLP application.

Thanks much folks!

Sorry bout dat!!! Final sand hull to 180 then shoot 2 coats of primer. After 1st coat use Green 3M scotch brite pad to knock down any nubs etc. Knock down and 2nd coat can happen within 90 mins. Maybe less if temps are 80 degrees plus. Do the same thing after 2nd coat. Always wipe down with acetone/mineral spirit 50/50 mis between coats. if you see any imperfections sand em and fix em now before the color coats. Color coats should be sanded with a Wet Water(water with some dish soap in it.) and 320 grit paper.Again wipe dry and then wipe with the 50/50 mix. This occurs after about 2 hrs dry time. Remember it's only good for 8 hrs soooo I'd recommend mixing no more than 500ml of paint at a time using 60ml of hardener. Mix and cook for 30mins then shoot.

I don't use clear coat because it makes touch ups much harder. The SHINE you'll get from the two part mix is astounding. if you maintain it it'll last a long time. Make sure to write down your mix ratio if you use one for color and then keep 8 oz with NO hardener mixed in it and seal well for future use. Then if you get a chip/scratch just use and artists brush to dab some in and overfill the area. come back the next day and wet sand it down to blend it it. You'll never know it happened.
 

kcon

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Dec 10, 2016
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303
Awesome! Exactly what I needed to know, thank you so much. I'm a few weeks behind schedule but I'll have er in the water in July.


Got some gelcoat down in the hull and bilge coat down in the ski locker(s)
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Hopefully it's only a short time from here to the water for you.
You're tellin me!
 

kcon

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Dec 10, 2016
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303
Finally getting to the painting part, well for the bottom hull at least...

Cheap-o makeshift booth frame, did filling and fairing with TotalBoat Total Fair, sanded/shaped with 80 grit, then 120 grit.
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The redneck booth! Fan w/ HEPA filter coming in, as well as an AC. Positive pressure, no fan going out, though I will be adding one before the color coats.
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Primer round one!
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There are a few "problem" areas where my fairing/sanding failed, the expected pitting, pinholes, and divots from repairs. Honest I might just leave them, continue the paint job, and come back to the few areas in the fall to fix up / touch up.

Tomorrow, another primer coat, followed by some color!!
 
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