1980's Hydro Glass Restoration Project

[kcassells]

Not just your boat Kcon....Nearly every boat on this forum. Mass production, cutting corners in materials and workmanship from the boat mfg. industry. On a great note..that is what allows us to buy someone elses problem and fix it up. I couldn't afford a new boat. {don't think I want one either.}
KC

 

[Woodonglass]

What wood are you using for your stringers??

 

[kcon]

What wood are you using for your stringers??

Kiln dried white oak, I had read several sources online saying it's a decent choice.

 

[Woodonglass]

It is. However, very heavy and kinda PRICEY!!! It will hold up quite well.

 

[kcon]

Okay, I have a transom design question. Regarding the area shown in red here, this is where the transom was, just in this center portion of the rear.

I'd like to have the transom extend the width of the aft of the boat, however I have the issue shown below (overhead view):

The center portion is more or less straight, and the other 2/3rds are at an angle. I was thinking I mount, PB, and tab the center portion, fiberglass it into place, then add wood at the same thickness to the other two portions, and put a ton of epoxy PB at the triangle shaped void between the portions of wood (unless I can get the wood cut at such an angle to fill that little void) then tab and glass those side portions in the best I can, I'm worried that the side 2/3rd portion of the "transom" would be subject to flex, is that unreasonable? Need I even worry?

It is. However, very heavy and kinda PRICEY!!! It will hold up quite well.

You ain't kidding! Not cheap... Good thing I only needed the two boards...

 

[ondarvr]

By using any CSM with epoxy you will increase the cost and weight significantly with little to no benefit, so eliminate it if at all possible. It could easy double the amount of epoxy you're using.

 

[kcon]

By using any CSM with epoxy you will increase the cost and weight significantly with little to no benefit, so eliminate it if at all possible. It could easy double the amount of epoxy you're using.

At this point i'll likely only use my sum of CSM for the cosmetic fixes on the exterior being that the consensus is it's practically useless for me , I do have some polyester resin I may use strictly for the exterior, but even if I use epoxy with the CSM for small patches it's just a bit of filler. I just got a good length of 6oz woven fiberglass for using on the inside.

Most of the exterior hull damage is under an inch, with the lower bow having about 6 inches of damage, the damage is cracked gelcoat and some stripped fiberglass.

 

[ondarvr]

For small cosmetic stuff it's fine.

 

[kcassells]

I concur to the above resposes from Ondarvr.

 

[Woodonglass]

IMHO there's no Need for a full extension on your transom. Put it back the way it was and call it good

 

[kcon]

Thanks for the tips guys, much appreciated. Had one of those frustrating "why am I doing this ****" days last night when I was fighting endlessly on getting the stringers to the right even height for hours. BUT I trudge on. I'll be more motivated in general when I get to the portions of work where I'm actually making visual progress, not just grinding and glassing

 

[Woodonglass]

It's always good to ask questions on techniques. If you'd made some stringer jigs like this your job would have been much easier.

 

[kcon]

It's always good to ask questions on techniques. If you'd made some stringer jigs like this your job would have been much easier.

That's sort of what I've been doing to get it where it needs to be, my issues have been in having a nice evenly spaced cut beneath it. The 2 hour long cut, test, cut, test, cut, test. lol

 

[Woodonglass]

Cardboard roughly cut to the hull shape and a Pencil Compass will allow you to scribe a line from the hull to the cardboard and then cut it out to use for a template on the wood. As long as you're within about 1/4" the PB bedding will take care of the rest.

 

[kcon]

Now there's an idea! Thanks!

 

[kcon]

Howdy! I have the stringers cut to size for the most part but didn't get them in yet cause I really wanted to expose some more glass before I put the structure in, grinding ain't fun but it had to be done! Took it back home from the shop due to some rare 75 degree weekend February days in New York. Put the top back on and got some grinding done for some holes and spider cracks I intend to fill in.

Question for ya'll on some parts I need, where abouts could I find a grommet for the motor hole in the hull shown here? I peeked around and didn't seem to find any.

Another question, maybe a little harder to answer (hopefully not). The plastic covers (shown below) for the window screw channels are all cracked up, I'd like to replace them when I paint the window frames. Any clue where I can find these covers?

 

[jbcurt00]

Motor well boot
Motorwell boot

Available right here at iboats
http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Parts-Acc...ell%20bo&s=sol

No idea about the plastic window frame covers, cant really see a removeable/snap-in cover in the pix, but viewing @my cell

 

[kcon]

Motor well boot
Motorwell boot

Available right here at iboats
http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Parts-Acc...ell%20bo&s=sol

No idea about the plastic window frame covers, cant really see a removeable/snap-in cover in the pix, but viewing @my cell

Thanks! as for the plastic cover, it's just a real thin, long, black piece of plastic the seats in the long rectangular channel where the frame is screwed into the hull, surely at the very least I could improvise something.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I used a roof vent boot on my Bayliner. It might not sound like a great choice but it worked really well, and you can pick it up at any home improvement store. It still looks like new to this day.....

 

[kcon]

Got pretty lucky, wanted a new ski locker hatch with hinges, didn't want another wood one but the prices of the plastic options online were kind of nuts all things considered. Found one listed on eBay for like $80, offered $40, got it! Bleached the crap out of it and now it looks good as new!