1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

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Apr 27, 2010
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OK, I got the boat fixed. it runs like it used to even tho I need to put the whale tail back on.

I took it out for a short run and the boat is leaning bad to the left. My dad was next to me (I was driveing) and the boat is rolled to the left. He is heavyer then me and the old lower unit was on his side, But we swaped spots and it still had alot of roll left. I have looked around for a way to adjust the tab or trim tab. I cant find a stright ancer. somone help me please i dont want to get into this blind














sorry about the email issue


I HAD NO ALARM SOUND WHEN I BUMPED THE STARTER BEFORE.

I pulled up the carpet to replace the floor, i did that put the car pet back in. changed the spark plugs, changed the gear oil, slid the battery alittle.

Now that I have my boat ready for 2010. I went to show my buddy it turns over and now the alarm is screaming at me. I havent started it just turned it over. but as soon as the key is moved to the on spot it starts. I have no clue if or what it is...its a 78 or 79 yarcraft with a 140 (been in storage for the last 5 years, ran perfect when winterized) I was hopeing for some ideas of what it is. the alarm is in the OMC hand throttle. starter works fine its just screaming and annoying. Any help is welcome. I was reading about a brown wire off the head I schould dissconnect and if it still alarms then its bad. donno what wire this is i see 3 ( one goes to the bottom right next to a sparkplug) another kinnda comes off a coilpack looking thing to a blue box) and the other looks random) help me out if you can.

thanks
 
Last edited:

tashasdaddy

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51,019
Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

either ignition wired wrong, or bad ignition switch. here is the schematic for ignition wiring.
 

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Joined
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Messages
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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

Hey there is a fuel alarm correct? I have the wrong fuel line 3/8 barb and I need the next size up. so would turning it over and it getting a low fuel alarm cuase it to sound off none stop once the key is turned? (could this be low oil as well due to no fuel oil mix?) I am buying the correct fuel line in the morning. anyone have anymore thoughts? the wireing diagam is nice I could easly disconnect it. but I know it is working cuase it is sounding off so i'd like to keep it so I know if she gets hot or not.
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

On that old engine, the only warning alarm is for an overheat. Two temp switches/sensors (one in each head) will short to ground when the engine overheats-triggering the constant horn. One of these switches may be bad. You can temporarily disconnect the knife connectors by both switches and see if the horn quits sounding. The knife connector is under a round rubber (like a hose) cover by the switch.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Messages
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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

On that old engine, the only warning alarm is for an overheat. Two temp switches/sensors (one in each head) will short to ground when the engine overheats-triggering the constant horn. One of these switches may be bad. You can temporarily disconnect the knife connectors by both switches and see if the horn quits sounding. The knife connector is under a round rubber (like a hose) cover by the switch.


This guy is a real pro...thanks man. it was the driver side sensor. Could you tell me how it comes out? pull? wrench? special tool? I havent tryed yet but when i disconnected the knife connecter and tryed it it shut right up...hopefully hoppys boat center has one. and the correct barbed fuel end for me. might be a hot run comeing sooner than i thought.
 
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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

I might as well put this fourm to the test huh? I was trying to move my 12gal tank around to get my fuel line on( I have no idea how we got that thing under the back seats) and the throttle cable's is lockinging up now to. I dont want to push or pull on it to hard. I just know its not engageing wherei it did bofore i started this restore.


thank you

??lost??
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

To replace the head switch, you only have to remove the head COVER. No need to take the whole head off. You will need a new head cover gasket. Actually an easy and pretty cheap repair. I'd disconnect the throttle/shift cable at the engine. If it still is binding when you shift, you could have a problem inside the control box. I have seen some of the gears inside these older control boxes fail, causing binding.
 
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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

Are you calling the temp sensors on the head the head switches? I am a automotive tech. I know my way around a little. So what I am asking is do I just pull on these switches to get them out? or are they bolted in behind the rubber sleave in there covering them?

The throttle cables I am going to try moveing them around and see if i can get them at the rite angle. kinda like a rollercoaster back there right now.

Thank you for your time and help

Anyone know a good summer spot in florida besides the butler chain or banna river? im looking for place's where people like hanging out and just haveing a good time. with lots of boats. any info is great!!
 

ezeke

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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

When you have the water cover off of the cylinder head, you will need to pry the temperature switch out of the cylinder head. If you pull the wire you will probably break it off. The switch is sealed in place with gasket sealer similar to 3M 847.
 
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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

Ok thank you...Im haveing an issue with my starter engageing. I read a whole buch of stuff, First charge your battery ( I have my deep cycle on that now) I cleaned the starter shaft with some wd-40 and put a little dab of gear oil on it. I cleand the starter post on the starter and followed my pos wire to the battery and made sure it was on the pos. I tightend down the termanls on both sides. I did turn it over a few times to make sure that was all good so I think that killed the batt enough to cuase it todo this...and my lowrance fish finder was on...I guess the screen stoped working (got it in 94) so I unpluged it from the back of the screen. I replaced the fuel line. I took out the quick release on the motor and ran my 3/8th line straight to the fuel screen-filter. I still have to find out why my throttle cabels are binding. jus trying to get it right, If I would have known replaceing the floor was going to cuase all this, I would have left it alone and just fixed the fuel line and went out.

Thanks guys and gals
 

ezeke

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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

You don't want any kind of grease on your starter. It should be spotlessly clean and only a drop of very light machine oil - like sewing machine oil. The OE oil is mostly mineral oil.
 
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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

Check me out

I pulled the starter and coil pack, Took em down to advanced auto parts. they could test the starter for free. So I did and it spun like a mofo. soooo...i watched him do it and even tho it was kickin *** it didnt push the gear to the top of the shaft even though it was spinnning way faster then my boat spins it. think its a bad spring? or shaft the gear spins on? I can move it by hand all the way to the top. but wont go up even at like 4,000rpms or whatever they spun it at at advanced.

help a noob out!!
 
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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

turns out the starter magnets were cracked from hiting it and makeing it work. I had a place rebuild it for 90bucks. works great, boat runs good too. Is there like a cold start on it like after it reaches running temp it idels down? I let it run for like 2 or 3 mins and I was reaching over the side to turn the key off and I heard the motor calming down from a faster idel. but i shut the key off before I heard it even out the idel. Im just wondering if something started messing up. thanks to everyone.
 

Solittle

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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

Don't run that engine without the boat being in the water or muffs on a hose. You will fry the impeller in the water pump if you run it dry.
 
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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

I know that much..lol thanks though. So I still have it stuck in nutral. I heard when it get stuck with it off. I need to start it up and try and put it in gear by hand at the back. but first I am going to try it with it running from the side control. I will try that in the AM tomarrow, I have been reading about the shift rods. I cant find a diagram for MY motor only others. Sould I try some WD40 uptop at the levers? i greased the heck out of the cables already and made sure its not them. I had the forward and reverse working. but i moved it forward and back a few times without it running and now its hung up. Should I try it with it running? or should I be looking for a rebuilt-newer lower unit? Does anyone have any ideas?
 

ezeke

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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

It's very hard to shift gears on that motor without moving the gears - they won't line up with the clutch dog. Take the plugs out and turn the flywheel or turn the propeller.
 
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Re: 1978?yarcraft with john 140v (need help)

Im sorry I posted ontop, What my new problem is.

OK, I got the boat fixed. it runs like it used to even tho I need to put the whale tail back on.

I took it out for a short run and the boat is leaning bad to the left. My dad was next to me (I was driveing) and the boat is rolled to the left. He is heavyer then me and the old lower unit was on his side, But we swaped spots and it still had alot of roll left. I have looked around for a way to adjust the tab or trim tab. I cant find a stright ancer. somone help me please i dont want to get into this blind
 
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