1977 Johnson 115 HP 115EL77S Outboard Tilt Trim.. Need a Guru!

[wadegcs]

Canuckmark...I have a kit for the Calico pump I purchased by mistake...I'd sell it for what it cost me which is $23.00

 

[canuckmark]

Actually I have the kit already, just deciding when to install as the boat goes "offline" until it is done. The only issue is the main gasket is damaged in the package so i gotta get some gasket material and make a new one. Kinda funny when the "new" part was made in 1975 and is older than the parts it is replacing!

As for the forum, i've learned to use CTRL a and CTRL c to highlight all and copy while I'm typing. You may loose the page but not what you typed.

 

[bonz_d]

Sorry I just came across this topic or I'd have joined sooner. The 1987 50hp 2 cylinder uses pretty much the same unit. 2 cylinders outside the trasom mounts and in this case the Prestolite pump.

From the trouble shooting section of the manual it consistantly lists 3 things for a complete leak down. The manual release valve, pump check valve and oil leaks. Hope this helps some.

 

[Sifter]

I have the prestolite pump on my unit. I have read the calco motors were more problematic. How did you conclude the pump is bad?

Thanks for the detail on the t-ring P/N. My main concern is the trim cylinder. I removed the cylinder cap ok, but the internal assembly was difficult to get apart due to rust/corrosion. After a couple days of soaking it with PB Blaster, I got the top or bearing piston off the internal carrier piston so I could get at the inside of it - lots of grit and grime, nearly dry and difficult to slide. Should there be fluid inside the carrier piston to keep it lubricated?

 

[Sifter]

Clarification to last question: when I reassemble the trim cylinder, should I put hydraulic fluid inside the carrier piston to keep it lubed, or will that interfere with the operation of the tilt cycle? I think something needs to go in there to keep it from drying out.

 

[canuckmark]

Sifter: are you referring to the lower part of the piston where the wire bobbin is? Mine had water and junk inside. I pulled the bobbin, cleaned it all out and used a bit of ATF to lube it for reassembly. Then sealed off the sender contact port.

As for concluding the pump is bad, it is more a matter of elimination. Also the motor drifts down through the entire path (from full up to full down), which to me suggests it isn't just one piston that has failed.

Thanks for chiming in bonz, that's where i'm at now. Manual bypass is replaced, the check valves are next. Unfortunately there isn't much info out there on the calcos so it'll be a learning experience.

 

[Sifter]

Canuckmark: yes, the inside of that inner cylinder with the bobbin was really gritty and grimey. The stop on the end of the piston rod would bind against the inside walls and limit the piston rod's movement. After I cleaned it out there is still some residual rust on the inside walls so I was thinking of adding hydraulic fluid to keep it lubed but realized the fluid will also cause resistance and slow the rod's movement. Would like to know how much fluid to put in there, if any.

There was a guy on here that went by Rritt who was really familiar with these type of PTT units. He's since passed, but I found his posts helpful.

 

[canuckmark]

Passed as in passed away? wow, I didn't know that.

 

[Sifter]

Yup, as in rowed the boat right over the edge.

 

[Figment51]

No Title

The Calco valve body"s are known for internal leaking a new valve body usually work if piston seals are good
I have refitted these old units with new pumps and motor rebuilt cylinder and new bushings and lift pins almost all is modified to obtain available parts
You can contact me

 

[Highlife]

Did you all remove the entire TNT bracket ? or just the cylinders and pump? I have a 1977 115hp Johnson with the same issues and just trying to figure out what way to start. Any additional help would be great. Thanks, Highlife

 

[canuckmark]

I did the piston rebuilds still in the bracket on the boat, although it was a bit extra work getting all the shmutz out of the bottom of the cylinders. It is doable.

However that said, removing the entire assembly is pretty easy. Support the motor at the trailering bracket (or trim all the way down), remove top pivot bolts on piston rams, remove two bottom motor mount thru-transom nuts/bolts (since they pass through the TnT bracket, leave the top two in). Then the last 4 bolts holding the TnT bracket to the motor bracket and it's off. You'll have to disconnect the TnT motor and trim meter wires to completely remove.

If you want to remove the TnT motor assembly from the bracket, you will need to mostly remove the tilt piston to get at the bottom of the three TnT motor bolts. I say mostly because if you remove the bottom pivot pin and carefully push the piston in and down, you can just get at that bolt. But you'll need the TnT bracket off or very loose so the piston has some room to move.

BTW an update to my situation: A year and a half of daily searches on Kijiji finally yielded a complete TnT system (with a Prestolite pump no less) for 40 bucks. Swapped the pump to the present system and it works great. The "new" pump was known to drift down as per the previous owner, but it takes more than a day to drift from full up to bottom so I'll take that! Plus I got spare parts...keep searching fellas, there's one out there for you somewhere.