1977 16ft SC Holiday re-do

No-AH

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 20, 2016
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234
Sounds like you've been busy. Have you checked the card reader in the computer for the SD? :lol:

What/how did you replace the rivets with on the bottom?
I used an assortment of diameter alum/ss rivets depending on the dia. of the drilled out rivet hole...
all gobbed with a healthy dollop of 5200 of course.
I did check my lapys ports/docs with no luck so far....I'm really bummed about the whole misplacing it with these being the only pics I have so far of the redo!
 
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No-AH

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Oct 20, 2016
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Next phase will concentrate on the bow casting decks' structural and decking components. Stay tuned....
Thanks for the visits!
Onward we go...
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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The reason I asked about the rivets is that all the solid rivets in the bottom of the boat are structural being attached to ribs and even stringers on some models. I replaced at least 300 solid rivets on just the bottom of my current build so I have a bit of experience with solids and their strength. Blind rivets are not as strong as solids and are used in a different way on gunnels and other interior structure. My SS uses blinds to hold the 2 piece gunnels together and I added twice as many as SC did from the factory, that's how much I trust their ability to hold things together. :lol:

So you know where I'm coming from I just want guys to do things right and have as safe a boat as possible. :) Also to know why different rivets were used in the construction of these boats. One of the biggest issues with blinds being used on the bottom is an impact. The head of a blind will not take any kind of beating compared to a solid and even the make up of a blind is a problem being soft pure aluminum where the solids used on the structure is harder 2117T4 alloy.

Worst case for blinds on the bottom is from flexing of the hull and ribs can pop the head off a blind even without impact and now you have a 3/16" hole and loss of the rivet. I know lots of guys will repair one or 2 rivets on the bottom with blinds and be fine but if there's a run of them it will be a problem down the road. Just wanted you to know this info before you proceed.

Sorry to be so long winded here. ;)
 

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Nov 29, 2015
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Looking good. You may pass my restoration soon and I have 10 months on you. Have fun riveting.
 

No-AH

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 20, 2016
Messages
234
The reason I asked about the rivets is that all the solid rivets in the bottom of the boat are structural being attached to ribs and even stringers on some models. I replaced at least 300 solid rivets on just the bottom of my current build so I have a bit of experience with solids and their strength. Blind rivets are not as strong as solids and are used in a different way on gunnels and other interior structure. My SS uses blinds to hold the 2 piece gunnels together and I added twice as many as SC did from the factory, that's how much I trust their ability to hold things together. :lol:

So you know where I'm coming from I just want guys to do things right and have as safe a boat as possible. :) Also to know why different rivets were used in the construction of these boats. One of the biggest issues with blinds being used on the bottom is an impact. The head of a blind will not take any kind of beating compared to a solid and even the make up of a blind is a problem being soft pure aluminum where the solids used on the structure is harder 2117T4 alloy.

Worst case for blinds on the bottom is from flexing of the hull and ribs can pop the head off a blind even without impact and now you have a 3/16" hole and loss of the rivet. I know lots of guys will repair one or 2 rivets on the bottom with blinds and be fine but if there's a run of them it will be a problem down the road. Just wanted you to know this info before you proceed.

Sorry to be so long winded here. ;)


It's all good mate. Great info. The rivets that I sheared and drilled out [that were loose or missing] that were structural [clamping ribs or chines to the hull] were replaced with ss 1/4"dia. 0.080 -.375" grip range magnaloks [buttered with 5200] with my air riveter making sure to get maximum clamping strength. I didn't want to go down the solid rivet road.
 

No-AH

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Oct 20, 2016
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Looking good. You may pass my restoration soon and I have 10 months on you. Have fun riveting.


Thanks Irv.
I needed to "give'r" this week being home and all. Acting like a child opening presies on Christmas morning anxiously awaiting "what am I going to find under here....."
Next phase I won't have that luxury nor help as my helpers are back to work.
 

No-AH

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Oct 20, 2016
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Cutting the 2" foam board for in-hull floatation, stacking them 2" at a time bow to stern....


100 or so later.....
 

No-AH

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Oct 20, 2016
Messages
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I managed to salvage these from the bow-ectomy, btw thanks for that terminology Waterman ;]
Any guesses as to what they are/do in a boat will be welcomed.
Clue...there are 4 of them......
 

No-AH

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 20, 2016
Messages
234
May be a retractable dock line?
Winner winner chicken dinner!
Good job BWR1953
I have re-fed with 3/8" marine rope and plan to re-use these in the future. Not sure if these were an option or stock from Starcraft?
I haven't seen these on other boats before...sure are unique though.
Here is another pic re-wound. All were riveted under the gunwales. 2 were located next to the aft cleats, port and starboard sides and the other 2 were at the stern.
 
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jbcurt00

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24,871
Probably not SC factory original, or even an option, but could have been an original addon from the dealer.....

Best guess, would be added by a previous owner, at simetime...
 

BWR1953

Vice Admiral
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Jan 23, 2009
Messages
5,866
Make my chicken dinner Popeye's spicy dark with red beans and rice! :lol:

I like those gadgets. Will check into putting some on my boat(s).
 

No-AH

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 20, 2016
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234
Could be remnants of a bow anchor system. :noidea:
HMMMM good guess, you may be onto something there....great emoticon btw!

Probably not SC factory original, or even an option, but could have been an original addon from the dealer.....

Best guess, would be added by a previous owner, at simetime...
Agreed, both pos' live locally. I'll ask them for sure.

Make my chicken dinner Popeye's spicy dark with red beans and rice! :lol:

I like those gadgets. Will check into putting some on my boat(s).
OOHH Popeye's, one of my favs when I'm visiting the U.S [btw, Bugaboo Creek Steak House is another]
I like gadgets too. All my fishing/boating chums have commented on these at some point or another, and have never seen such a creature before either. I really like the fact that they're spring loaded and keep just enough tension on the dock line to stay taunt when moored.
 
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No-AH

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Oct 20, 2016
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234
Not yet they aren't says they sold out the inventory and are working on a new design.


Gang here probably bought them all....:D

Hey all,
Been busy this week with my boats? bow casting deck. After a lengthy planning/ hand sketching stage of my structural components to tie in the deck itself and incorporate supports needed for the 2 consoles [that are just hanging there] was a bit tasking to say the least. Remember that I severed the dash board creating 2 separate consoles to allow a walkthrough the width of my existing windshield. My chum is a retired civil/structural engineer, so he advised me with pointers/criterias before I came up with the last and final draft along with a few pop ;]]
Soooo , I cut and fitted some 2?x1/4" AL angle and channel and ripped some 2? x 4? kiln dried p-t from a local specialty lumber supplier. Same place I ordered the marine and exterior ply for my transom and decking. Here is the link to the KDAT lumber I used.
http://www.prowoodlumber.com/~/media...ATBrochure.pdf The beauty of kdat lumber is that you can primer and seal right away.
Pre-fitted all below deck support trusses [lost count of how many ins/outs of the bow that this took] before fastening them to the outer/upper inside support bow ribs. Thank you dual bevel 10? compound miter saw for some pretty interesting cuts to both the wood and AL. I swapped out to an old carbide blade for the AL cuts, worked great?who knew! For the fear of having ?squeaks? I lined all contact points between lumber and AL with healthy pcs. of outdoor grade, dense foam. Fabricated and pre-drilled all L shaped 1? wide fastening brkts from 3"x 3" x ?" S/S angle I purchased from www.metalsupermarkets.com Fasteners used were 2?x #10 S/S hex head screws [used for brkts to lumber] and ?" S/S Huck Magna-lok structural rivets from http://acerivet.com/magna-lok®-rivet/ [used for AL brkts to AL ribs] all with a healthy dollop of lock-tite. I have to say that, the IF-1 is a sweet, must tool to have and worth every penny..?clamped those ?? S/S behemoths thoroughly and without fail. http://acerivet.com/if-1-rivet-tool/
I purchased an assortment of S/S fasteners and the riveter here http://acerivet.com/ Great friendly, knowledgeable folks and best of all, avlbl in Canada! Reasonable prices with fast shipping right to your door!
Got the underside of the bow gunnels below the rail and the anchor winch re-in forced with 3/4? ply, glued, screwed then carpeted.
Next will be the decking layout/fitting of ?? exterior ply, spar x2 ?.primer/sealer x2 coats then wrapped in Nautolex vinyl http://www.outdoorfabricscanada.com/...ing-_c_26.html with 2 below deck compartment lids for storage below, possibly future double battery location ;]]
Thanks for the visits?.input/feedback are always welcomed?.
Pics to follow.
Onward we go!
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
Sounds like some heavy duty rebuilding going on with the little Holly, looking forward to seeing some pics!
 
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