1976 Grady White Transom Rebuild

[demarko210]

Essentially, a common theme here on Iboats is that you can go back the way the manufacturer did it if you want. Most people look at what the manufacturer did and decide to improve it. Plywood is much more suitable to forming a stringer, but if you want to replace it as you found it, you can. Dimensional lumber has a tendency to swell and warp with changes in humidity and temperature, plywood is much more stable. When the wood swells, it can slowly break the laminated fiberglass away from the wood. Also plywood gives you more strength.

Understood. I am going with plywood the rest of the way. Just the cabin back will be plywood stringers. The cabin on to the front are ok except for the center dagger stringer under the cabin. i will have to cut the cabin floor to access it. I could not pull my cap the way you did but thats ok. Thanks for the help

 

[Slager]

For the chopped glass, you'll probably need 1-2 lbs.

 

[demarko210]

For the chopped glass, you'll probably need 1-2 lbs.

Ok will make a note of that.

 

[demarko210]

Got the transom fitted today.


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B95_CdtAK79BSjhxUXBoUWRKdnM

 

[kcassells]

Very nice! Did you take time to read the Wog?

 

[kcassells]

I got the 1 side storage hold fitted today. Was going to do more. Still had some family stuff to do. Also I'm making a bunch of lasagna for my neighbors son pre-wedding bbq party. **** me off though...took a nick out of my finger so going a leetle slower today. Can't pick my nose for a few days. Does smell good in the house with all the cooking going on.
Nice progress demark.

 

[demarko210]

Very nice! Did you take time to read the Wog?

Yes I read it decided not to use the PL and will go with the Titebond III. I will be sandwiching them today.

 

[demarko210]

This website is a pain in the rear trying to get pictures up here even the way I am doing it. They need to make it so you can upload from you phone. Posting links is difficult and time consuming. To post pictures I have to upload to drive->download to PC-> resize each image-> then upload one by one. OR upload to drive-> and copy links one by one-> then go back to this site-> and paste one by one-> then add the link-> then paste again WTF. I would rather have the images on the website encase I take the pictures down in the future so others can still view. I will try once the project is done to post all photos to the website so the will be here as long as the website is up and running

Here is the link to the photo folder again. All new photos are at the bottom.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...GtiUzI1VWJwN00

 

[demarko210]

I got the 1 side storage hold fitted today. Was going to do more. Still had some family stuff to do. Also I'm making a bunch of lasagna for my neighbors son pre-wedding bbq party. **** me off though...took a nick out of my finger so going a leetle slower today. Can't pick my nose for a few days. Does smell good in the house with all the cooking going on.
Nice progress demark.

You got more lasagna? That must be your specialty have to try one day. Do worry about picking that nose leave them there, they will help with the chemical smells lol.

 

[kcassells]

Looking darn good! Not sure.. does titbond need to gas off before you glass?

 

[Slager]

I don't think titebond needs to off gass, it starts out as a water based glue. If I remember right it cures within 24 hrs and should be good to go after that.

 

[demarko210]

Looking darn good! Not sure.. does titbond need to gas off before you glass?

I got the titebond from the WOG reading you sent KC. Then I looked on amazon at the reviews for it and it said to be some awesome stuff. Ii saw friscoboater youtube videos a few times over and over and here where he said something about the bubbles in the PL and the cure time but it works. So I thought I try this stuff TB3. It says 30 mintues but do not clamp for 24 hours.

 

[kcassells]

Cool beans! looks like you're doing all the right moves.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm hopefully you meant apply clamps within 30 mins and stay clamped for 24 hrs.

 

[demarko210]

Uhmm hopefully you meant apply clamps within 30 mins and stay clamped for 24 hrs.

It says clamp for minimium of 30 minutes longer the better and dont not keep pressure on joints longer than 24 hours. I have a picture of the instructions in the next post.

 

[demarko210]

Got the stringers cut and dry fitted them yesterday. I cut them about .5 inch taller encase I did something wrong lol. i went with the 23/32 that i had already purchase and bought some 1/4 A/C. I will do the sisters with (2) 12 inch sisters 23/32 on each side for all 4 stringers.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B95_CdtAK79BVGtiUzI1VWJwN00?usp=sharing

 

[Slager]

Great. The closer the stringers match the hull the better and easier, at least you'll use less peanut butter that way. I had some larger gaps to fill up near the front of mine, getting larger areas filled and smooth is much harder than the smaller.

Built that way, your stringer joints should be very strong, probably quite a bit stronger than the rest of the stringer.

 

[demarko210]

Great. The closer the stringers match the hull the better and easier, at least you'll use less peanut butter that way. I had some larger gaps to fill up near the front of mine, getting larger areas filled and smooth is much harder than the smaller.

So when I lay the PB down, i would then place the stringer into the bedding. My questions is,
when the stringer contacts the bedding, do i set (push down) the stringer until it stops falling (which should mean it hit the hull I think)
OR
should I seat it in a way that i know that the stringer is suspended in PB from front to back off the hull completely with not gaps between PB and stringer?

 

[demarko210]

Built that way, your stringer joints should be very strong, probably quite a bit stronger than the rest of the stringer.

Would the added strength of the stringer from the joint to stern effect the front stringers or hull because i determine that they were good (joint to bow)?

 

[demarko210]

I glued the transom pieces together. I wasn't happy with the with how it began after i clamped the 2 together, but after about 20 min of moving clamps I left it alone in the sun for the day clamped. I came back the next morning and it seemed to come together better than I thought. i lightly sanded with 80, then clean with tone, and applied glue to one side and used a bondo spreader to spread it out as well as I could before it started to stiffen a little. then I added the 2nd piece on top and started clamping.

My next question is, why do we use PB when we place the transom in and stick it to the inside of the outer skin? When I did the dry fit of mines as you can see in the pictures. My transom is secured in with the sides of the hull before i even tab it in. The only way I can get the wood in the space is to slide it down like connect 4 game. The fit is tight that I see all the resin being pushed down to the bilge area. let me know.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...zluSTBHMjhPQU0

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B95_CdtAK79Bd0VDdkh6SHdvVms