1975 StarCraft Holiday 18 Johnson 85 o/b

CaliCrabber

Cadet
Joined
Jan 7, 2015
Messages
29
Hello Iboats!! Just picked up my first boat, '75 Holiday 18! before I get started, I just want to thank everyone who has made this forum such an amazing resource. Re-building these boats is a huge expenditure of effort and time (not to mention $$), and then you iboats guys go the distence documenting and posting the process so that newbees like me have a chance to learn. Bravo, Gentlemen!
okay, let's get down to it. The Nookie Getter is a great boat with a lot of potential but definitely needs some help. The hull is in good shape, rivets and seams are tight, paint looks good on the bottom. the 85 Johnson and the 15 Johnson kicker both fired right up and sound good. other than that, well, let's just say I won't feel bad putting some scratches on her. this year the facelift, next year total rebuild.
my plan for now is to clean her up as best I can, re-do the wiring, replace the lights and horn, patch or fill all the little holes in the bow and gunwells from old accessories, install a small split bow rail, and maybe toss in a couple of new jump seats in the stern. also thinking about putting in a removable casting seat on the bow, and possibly a hatch up there, too.
next year I will replace the deck and transom, remove my burgundy seventies upholstery and repaint inside and out.
so that is a for sure plan. here is the consideration....
I'm thinking about ditching the old snap on canvas with a lightweight aluminum hardtop modeled after it. I know it might sound like I'm getting ahead of myself but here in Northern California it rains a lot in the winter and the Sun is hot in the summer. Topper is a priority. I would just use the old canvas for now but it has shrunk and many of the snaps will not attach any longer.
I was thinking about modeling the frame after the canvas', and constructing it from angle aluminum stock and then skinning it either in an aluminum sheets riveted and sealed together or possibly with 1/4 inch marine ply.
So I was hoping for opinions. Will it add too much wait, or make the boat too top heavy? As cool as i think it would be, my kids will be on board some of the time, so safety is #1. I have seen some youtubes of people doing similar things. That doesn't mean its a good idea, but the mods I saw were water tested and seemed solid. In my head it, it seems like the boat is big and stable enough to handle it, and I don't mind sacrificing a few mph. What do the experts think? Feasible, safe? It deffiniatly would be sweet!!
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
:welcome: to the iboats forum!

Since you've studied up on us a bit you should know photos are a requirement for admission into the Starmada. :D Don't wait too long or the mob will start forming and you don't want that. :lol:

As far as the hard cover goes, I would steer towards a bimini top rather than trying to refit what's there. It would have to be strong enough to be trailered at highway speeds too. So you know they don't make marine grade ply in 1/4", only 1/2" and 3/4" according to my supplier and they discontinued 5/8".
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
Welcome to iboats

We'd love to see your new rig.

And before you decide to wait on major work, take a very close look at the transom, deck and chine rails.

If you're using it in the ocean, its going to see some rough duty.
 

dozerII

Admiral
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
6,527
:welcome:Cali, We need to see some picture of this Holiday before the mob forms up:D;). Holidays are a great boat you should like it a lot. Maybe look into a Bimini top before you start building they work very well for shade and the sudden down pour, but can be folded down when you don't need or want it.



 

cj8mule

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
660
Welcome to iboats! The mob is forming.... better get some pics.
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,405
image count:
Glen: 2
OP: 0

^^^ what's wrong with that "picture" :photo:
 

CaliCrabber

Cadet
Joined
Jan 7, 2015
Messages
29
OK ok, OK guys!! Youre more efficient at forming mobs than fixing boats!-) I will try to get some picks up tomorrow, it will be too dark by the time I get home from work. Do I need to open a photo bucket acount, or can I just make an attachment from my e-mail?
As far as toppers go, I'm not opposed to canvas, but I don't want an open Bimini. I love the design of the original canvas. Whatever its made of, I definitely want it to attach to the windshield and have removable windows. Doesn't have to be a full camper, but I do want a place that's pretty well enclosed to keep the kids.out of the elements if the weather goes bad, and to stop the wind chill when motoring around. I have scoured the web and, as you know, a new condition original is pretty much impossible to find. Any one have a guess on the price of a costum copy of the original?
Gorgeous boat, by the way, dozerll. And your right, jb...I'm definitely going to go over her with a fine tooth comb before I get her wet and make sure she's up for it.
She was fishing the Columbia untill I got her and out in the salt too, saw a lot of big water. Never gave the PO any trouble. Ive been trying my best to assess the condition of the transom and it seems solid, but can you really know without taking it apart? Its not the original, so its not as aged as the deck. The deck needs to be redone, and I can not wait to get rid of the ratty marine carpet, but I'm pretty sure it can hold till the summer and better weather for sealing wood. And, like I said, I'm pretty green...what are the chine rails?
Thanx a bunch for the warm welcome and rapid response!
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
On the outside of the hull, where the bottom joins the sides of the boat is the chine.

Look thru ClassicCat and Watermanns rebuilds, they both strengthened that area after finding stress cracks. The damage was very hard to find in some cases.

Look at the 2nd pix Dozer posted, theres an aluminum angle running just above the chine. Thats the chine rail, and just below it and on the hull bottom is where the damage is often found.
 
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64osby

Admiral
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
6,799
I love the design of the original canvas. Whatever its made of, I definitely want it to attach to the windshield and have removable windows.

Pretty sure this would be called a convertible top.

...But if there were pictures... :D
 

CaliCrabber

Cadet
Joined
Jan 7, 2015
Messages
29
You guys are very inspiering. First you inspired me to fix the boat, and now I'm feeling VERY inspired to post pix:). I'll take a swing at it tomorrow, I promise. 64, your absolutely right, a convertible top is exactly what I'm looking for. Any one got a clue at what it would cost to have one made? And thanx again everybody.
 

CaliCrabber

Cadet
Joined
Jan 7, 2015
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29
And I appreciate the info and tips, JB. I'll definitely do my best to be thorough, cautious and safe. Good looking out
 

dozerII

Admiral
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Oct 25, 2009
Messages
6,527
Last time I checked up here in the Great White North, depending on the design of the top and material you choose, they can run $1200 to $1600.
 

CaliCrabber

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Joined
Jan 7, 2015
Messages
29
Got the trailer inspected by the Highway Patrol today and a new VIN plate for it. Now im just waiting for some paperwork from the Oregon DMV and then Ill be legal. One step closer to getting her wet!!
Ive been trying to upload pix but apparently they are too big?? any tips?
While i was waiting on the inspection I visited my candy store...AKA the local marine supply shop. Got the number for a local canvas guy so i can continue my convertible topper inquiries. Aslso got a chance to check out some Bluesea and some seadog switch panels first hand. Obviosly the Bluesea is a superior product. Heres the question...
Is the the Bluesea worth the extra $100? If i use some dielectric grease and heat shrink, would the seadog be comparable, or at least good enough? trying to save $ for deck and transom.
What does the mob have to say about this?
 

CaliCrabber

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Jan 7, 2015
Messages
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Oh ya, and what do y'all think about flush mount horns...seems like a big hole to cut in the bow, but I like less stuff sticking out up there...
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,405
Hey CC.

Most of us use photobucket. (There's a how-to page somewhere around here).

It's pretty straightforward.

Open-up an account.

Create a Library to dump your Resto pics

when you want to share, simply copy the text in the IMG field (in gallery, you have to copy & paste, if you're looking at a single image, you just click the field and it copies it for you).

Paste it into this field...voila! Mob is happy :D





regarding the horn, I'm never a big fan of hacking away aluminum. My personal preference are the horns that you can place under the bow cover...outta-sight / outta-mind.
 
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CaliCrabber

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Joined
Jan 7, 2015
Messages
29
Thanx for the tips, CC. Never thought of sticking the horn under the bow, but thats definitely were its going now.
Well, after much anticipation, her she is...the Nookie Getter!!
IMG_20150108_131106334_zpsbc63a38c.jpg
Trying out the new bow rails
IMG_20150108_131408340_HDR_zpsc0f689c2.jpg
IMG_20150108_1325141711_zps1551bf88.jpg
View from my kitchen window, doing dishes is so much better now:laugh:
 

CaliCrabber

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Joined
Jan 7, 2015
Messages
29
Aslso got a chance to check out some Bluesea and some seadog switch panels first hand. Obviosly the Bluesea is a superior product. Heres the question...
Is the the Bluesea worth the extra $100? If i use some dielectric grease and heat shrink, would the seadog be comparable, or at least good enough? trying to save $ for deck and transom.
What does the mob have to say about this?

any opinions?
 

CaliCrabber

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Joined
Jan 7, 2015
Messages
29
Also, ive got this hole in the bow were i removed the base of some long lost accessory. I made an aluminum patch with i had planned on sealing with marine silicone and riveting it on from the underside. then i was going to fill the hole with marine epoxy from the top and sand it down flush.

I was wondering if i used 5200 instead, or perhaps a marine grade liquid epoxy, I could temporarily clamp the patch with bolts while it set, then remove them and fill all holes with marine epoxy, and sand down. Then after i paint, there wouldnt any rivets sticking out for no reason. Will 5200, or any other product, hold the patch good enough to make it a permanent?
IMG_20150110_115743903_zps66cde9a6.jpg
 

dozerII

Admiral
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
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Also, ive got this hole in the bow were i removed the base of some long lost accessory. I made an aluminum patch with i had planned on sealing with marine silicone and riveting it on from the underside. then i was going to fill the hole with marine epoxy from the top and sand it down flush.

I was wondering if i used 5200 instead, or perhaps a marine grade liquid epoxy, I could temporarily clamp the patch with bolts while it set, then remove them and fill all holes with marine epoxy, and sand down. Then after i paint, there wouldnt any rivets sticking out for no reason. Will 5200, or any other product, hold the patch good enough to make it a permanent?

Clean it up real good above and below, scuff the underside with coarse sand paper, then put your patch on from below with JB weld. Let is set up then skim the top with Jb to level up the holes.
 

CaliCrabber

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Jan 7, 2015
Messages
29
Thanx Glen. You like jb weld better than the marine epoxy putty for skiming the holes from the top?
 
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