1973 Evinrude 85hp 85393M No Cranking

[jmink]

Needing some wisdom from the iBoats gurus. Per my title of this thread I have a 1973 Evinrude 85hp model number 85393M and I have replaced the key switch, solenoid, and battery. With all of these changes, I still cannot get the motor to even attempt to crank. If I take a jumper and bypass the starting system by going from positive battery connection straight to starter positive terminal it will spin and try to crank.

I have also pulled the remote control apart to check on the neutral switch only to find the same results whey bypassing the switch.

One note is that when turning the key to the on position you can see the choke engage which tells me I am getting power to the motor.

I am a bit lost at this point and any guidance or ideas out there will be greatly appreciated.

 

[jimmbo]

Well, it points to the Cables(Positive and Negative) from the Battery and/or the cable between the Solenoid and the Starter motor, or the wire from the switch that energizes the Solenoid. Getting power to the Choke Solenoid is not getting power to the Starter Solenoid. I think that engine still had the thermal electric choke
Does the solenoid click when the key is turned?
There are a few switches that can open the circuit.
Those battery cables can look fine, show zero resistance on an multimeter, but be all corroded internally and unable to carry the current needed to crank the engine. Try hooking up the booster cable to where the battery cable goes to the solenoid.

just some basic troubleshooting can often solve electrical problems. Just watch out for shorts

 

[jmink]

Thanks jimmbo. There’s not any clicking sound when turning the key. I forgot to mention that the cables between battery terminals and engine are also brand new. I checked for continuity on the solenoid with voltmeter and it appears to be ok (regardless of being new). New solenoid is connected the same way the old one was.

 

[F_R]

Use that voltmeter and check the voltages throughout the circuit. That solenoid you put in---where did you get it? Hopefully, it is not a car solenoid.

 

[jmink]

I can’t remember which one, but I ordered it off a marine website.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Also, pull the starter and clean the mounting pad.

Does your replacement solenoid have one or two small terminals studs?

 

[racerone]

Replace the wee ground wire on the solenoid.

 

[oldboat1]

With all of these changes, I still cannot get the motor to even attempt to crank. If I take a jumper and bypass the starting system by going from positive battery connection straight to starter positive terminal it will spin and try to crank.

I'm not sure what this means. Cranking means the starter is turning over the motor (whether or not it starts). When you say "it will spin and try to crank," do you mean the motor is turning over but won't start?

 

[F_R]

A 1973 85hp has a safety switch on the shift lever on the motor. Sounds like it may be shot. Pull the wire off of it and ground the wire. If it cranks now, that is the problem. Replace the switch and go boating.

Actually, I would never tell anybody to remove any safety devices, but if you have the original control, it also has a safety switch in the control. It really doesn't NEED a second one on the motor. Just sayin'----

 

[JohnnyReckless]

If you want to test the solenoid you can bypass the ignition switch by turning key completely off so engine won't start and then jumping from the big terminal on the solenoid that goes directly to the battery and the small "SW" or switch terminal which goes up to the key switch. Again...key should be off so engine will not start or startle you. It will just make engine turn over. If it doesn't click or engage the starter then the solenoid may have a bad ground to the base of it. The metal solenoid mounting base needs to be grounded. Also, as Scott stated, some solenoids have two small terminals, don't use the "R" terminal. It's an output for 12V when cranking only used on older cars. If it does work fine when jumped, then either a faulty neutral safety switch, it's stuck in gear, or a bad ignition switch, or broken wire inside the control box. I believe some have a diode inline as well which may cause an open circuit.

 

[JohnnyReckless]

When bypassing the solenoid and when you said the starter "spins and tries to crank"...Is there enough voltage/amps to engage the pinion gear with the flywheel and actually crank the motor or does it just spin a little?