Re: 1973 65 hp Evinrude: Compression test completed, what does it mean?
I don't disagree with the decarb suggestion, because and as TD said, ten bucks is a pretty inexpensive "fix," if it works. Its also worthwhile, even of you do have to pull the head.
You can also use BRP's "Engine Tuner" in an aerosol can. It does not require mixing with the fuel. My method of using it, is to pull the plugs the night before the main application, so that I can spray some into the cylinders. I then reinstall the plugs and let the motor sit until I am ready to finish the job, the next day. Just spray the product in the carb throats, one at a time until the engine begins to falter. Do that with each carb, one after the other, until you run out of the product. You will then have to run your motor for 30 - 60 minutes, untill all of the liquified carbon is expelled. Your motor will smoke like "a house-a-fire," so be careful where you do this!
The only reason that I went directly to pulling the head, is because 97 psi is a long way off off what this motor should provide. Its also a pretty good jump from the other two cylinders, so the possibility of a leaking head gasket is certainly there.
If I remember correctly, you can pull your head without disturbing the cylinder head cover. I think you will have to pull all of the bolts, because the ones in the cover pass through both it and the head, but as long as you don't disturb the cover and handle it carefully, the gasket/seal will probably remain OK.
The cylinder head bolt torque procedure is simple - just do pattern of circles, moving from the inner circle, to successive outer circles, as you go. I believe this is done in a counter-clockwise direction. Make sure you double check your work on each bolt, then run the engine on the muffs for awhile. Let the motor cool and then recheck the torque values.