1970 Starchief conversion to center console

[Decker83]

Looks great.. That should hold the rib in place.. You have a great plan..

 

[BajaRon]

forgot a few shots....and some new goodies . First, my good friend and fabricator made the two pieces inside and out side the transom...the inside one was warped. The replacement was twice a thick. They are next to the original pieces...with ten thousand holes!!!

Next is the picture I forgot to send last night. It is the stack of 1/4 inch flat bar for my broken rib repair. Three pieces...that I pre bend on a rounded corner...then bend or unbend until it matched the outside of the hull where the rib was broken. Notice the slight angle of the flat bar. I shot the picture on top of my table saw. The idea is a combination of ideas from the brain trust on this site. THANKS GUYS!!! I need some dry weather to install. It's late...bedtime! WAIT...transom project soon!!!

 

[oldhaven]

BRon,

Do you think those two transom pieces were original? They don't look like anything I had on my '67 Starchief. It had a differently shaped plywood piece on the outside and only the transom wood inside. I will be doing something similar on the outside to cover holes on my transom skin, and just ordered a 60" by 18" piece of 1/8th 5052 that I will cut to a similar shape as yours to cover the damage. The inside piece to protect the transom from motor clamp or bolt damage looks like a good idea.

OHRon

 

[Watermann]

more work today...still wet and raining. Finished the temporary installation of the second broken rib, Only one rivet hole was out of line. When I get some dry weather I will clean up the rib area, 3m-5200, and invert the 10/32 bolts on the ribs....epoxy between each piece of 1/4 inch flat bar.

Placed a patch over the corroded drain hole. I need dry weather to make the corroded area smaller with JB Weld, then sand, then 3m 5200 again. I plan on flat washer, lock tight on a nut, then a fiber nut on the 10/32's.


Cannot see it but the knee braces needs angle support...both sides are gone. I can use an extra piece of the Z bracket...cut in half. Should have both inside and outside of the aluminum transom pieces soon.
The epoxy for the transom needs dry weather....right? I plan on using Watermans glue for the two pieces of 3/4 for the transom...I found the glue!!! $9.00 a tube...two tubes should do it.

the more I read other resto's, the more I feel this hull is in GREAT SHAPE!. Just luck...as I have not flipped it yet, but the bottom and transom looks good...a lot of extra holes from previous owners, but that can be fixed. Over the last 4 weeks I have read the equivalent of War and Peace about 5 times on Restoration threads...so much good information and good reading. Thanks to all!!! Ron

You're knocking out a good chunk of hull repairs, everything's looking good and well thought out :thumb:

On track for a summer splash, keep plugging away!

 

[Decker83]

Your friend did a great job on the fabrication..

 

[BajaRon]

You're knocking out a good chunk of hull repairs, everything's looking good and well thought out :thumb:

On track for a summer splash, keep plugging away!

EVERYTHING IS WELL THOUGHT OUT!!! Just not by me....all the thinking has been done before me! Thanks!!!

Scored the glue today...may tackle the transom glue project tomorrow or Saturday. Two bottles should do it, but three on hand will let me sleep at night.

How do I double quote again? Thanks, Ron

 

[BajaRon]

BRon,

Do you think those two transom pieces were original? They don't look like anything I had on my '67 Starchief. It had a differently shaped plywood piece on the outside and only the transom wood inside. I will be doing something similar on the outside to cover holes on my transom skin, and just ordered a 60" by 18" piece of 1/8th 5052 that I will cut to a similar shape as yours to cover the damage. The inside piece to protect the transom from motor clamp or bolt damage looks like a good idea.

OHRon

Oldhaven, I am sure the parts are original. I can only guess that the inside piece came a few years after your boat. And...what size plywood was between the motor and transom? I want to put a piece on my boat...I think it will quite down the vibration.

Hope your project is going well. I saw your kayak...yikes!!! What a beauty! I have a Hobie Outback...great for fishing. And, are you an electrician? I am...IBEW 302. Thanks for the support, Ron

 

[jbcurt00]

Double quote:
Hit quote under 1st post you want to quote, a new post window opens w that post quoted.

Scroll up from the reply window amd click Quote under any other posts you want to quote. No new reply window opens as you click additional quotes.

Once you've hit quote under all the posts you want to quote, scroll up to the top of the forum page. Below the topic title, and just above the 1st post on that page, and theres a Post Reply button, it has a number next to it. That number is the total number of posts you plan to quote, including the 1st.

Click that Post Reply button and a mew reply window opens w all the quotes.

I suspect that a previous owner added those aluminum panels. Not even much newer SCs had them, and I've never seen an SC posted w them. May have been a long time ago so as to look original. Its been 45yrs since new.

If I was to put on a motor pad, I'd probably consider UDPE or HDPE in a 1/2in

Ebay has several sellers offering king or star board cutoffs, reasonable depends on how you define it.

It'd never rot or need maintenance once mounted.

Some use aluminum just to protect the hull, but that doesnt dampen vibration.

I dont recall what ChemicalWire used on his OB.. But you can look thru his topic

 

[oldhaven]

Thanks Ron, my wife has enjoyed the kayak for many years and we still have it. The ply motor board on my Chief was 3/8 thick. It looks like a replacement and may have been pressure treated, which was probably the reason the worst corrosion I have found in the boat so far was under it. The Star board or HDPE JB recommends seems like a good alternative, though I have no experience with it and don't know whether it will resist compression as well as good plywood. I would think the ideal requirements would be a hard surface and a sound and vibration deadening core.

You probably asked about me being an electrician for a reason. I am not, but my Dad and brother are lifelong IBEW electricians, both retired now and enjoying the benefits of being in a union after hard but rewarding careers in Michigan.

Ron

 

[Grandad]

Thanks Ron,
You probably asked about me being an electrician for a reason. I am not, but my Dad and brother are lifelong IBEW electricians, both retired now and enjoying the benefits of being in a union after hard but rewarding careers in Michigan.Ron

I guess there's a lot of us around. Ive Been Every Where, too. Local 105, Hamilton, Ontario. - Grandad

 

[BajaRon]

Still moving forward. Had the wife help today with the transom. Used a light mat between the two pieces of 3/4 marine grade wood. Went smooth. Advice from this site led me to use about 175 pounds of even pressure on the glue job. Used Watermann's glue, will check in the morning. May need a little cut/trim for a final fit. Will need warmer/dryer weather for the transom epoxy.
Picked up the three sheets of 5/8 marine grade wood for the deck....$240.00 with tax!!! Double ouch!
On a quest for a 2014 Yamaha 60 4 stroke...found a new one with controls, prop, cables, tax, $6600.00. Not a speed boat, 25 mph tops in the Norther California ocean and Baja. Will post pictures tomorrow. Been following old haven and Decker83 with great interest. GREAT SITE!!! Thanks!!! Ron

 

[laurentide]

Still moving forward. Had the wife help today with the transom. Used a light mat between the two pieces of 3/4 marine grade wood. Went smooth. Advice from this site led me to use about 175 pounds of even pressure on the glue job. Used Watermann's glue, will check in the morning. May need a little cut/trim for a final fit. Will need warmer/dryer weather for the transom epoxy.
Picked up the three sheets of 5/8 marine grade wood for the deck....$240.00 with tax!!! Double ouch!
On a quest for a 2014 Yamaha 60 4 stroke...found a new one with controls, prop, cables, tax, $6600.00. Not a speed boat, 25 mph tops in the Norther California ocean and Baja. Will post pictures tomorrow. Been following old haven and Decker83 with great interest. GREAT SITE!!! Thanks!!! Ron

That engine will be fine on a light CC. You'll see 25 no problem, WOT should be around 30ish. A 70 2 stroke on mine with cabin and full enclosure cruises at about 20 at 3800 RPM's. And yours will be super quiet, clean, reliable, and fuel efficient :thumb:.

 

[Decker83]

You are going the right way with all the marine plywood..:encouragement:
Can't go wrong with the Yamaha either..:whoo:

Have a great week..

 

[BajaRon]

More work today, Sunday, 1/31. Removed the excessive cloth from the two pieces of my 3/4 inch transom. Now the two pieces are just a tick tight when I set it into place. I ran out of sandpaper to make it fit the way it should.

Question time....what epoxy would folks suggest? I will go back and check several threads. How much epoxy? It is wet outside and around or below 50 degrees, so I may pursue other projects. Flip the boat, remove paint, work on trailer....we will see.

Also, in the background is my $240.00 worth of 5/8 marine ply for the deck...three pieces. May need more for the front area. Thanks to everyone who has helped, Ron

 

[Foxcat]

I have a Yamaha 50 on my 18' Mariner, tops out around 32mph. I think you'll be just fine.

 

[Decker83]

Check out US Composites for your epoxy.. They have the best price around..
Not sure how much you will need..

 

[BajaRon]

Hi folks, I asked the wrong question. I need to know what type of varnish and how much...for my transom. There are about a million options for varnish. Weather is warming up and I may have a shot at the transom this weekend, thanks!

 

[GA_Boater]

Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. It has UV blockers and plenty of us swear by it. Lowes/Home Depot and other places carry it.

Nice work going on in this thread!

 

[laurentide]

E-bond epoxy has 3 gallon kits of their 1285/1289 epoxy for ~$125 with shipping. It's a good deal and product. Just another alternative to USC. They're an industrial supplier so you have to call them and they don't sell pumps.

http://ebondepoxies.com/products-services/marine-epoxies/

One thing I wish I had known when I was doing my epoxy work is that warm wood will much more readily absorb epoxy than cool or cold wood. A halogen bulb or heat gun will do the trick.

 

[Decker83]

I used the helmsman spar on my bunks.. 3 coats did a great job..