1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

[smevil]

Quick question we are going after my water impeller after work, I currently have no manual but have found it fun finding all the info here to get this engine back online after 15 years, My question is after removing the cover plate on right side of the engine to get to the next plate where the 2 wires go into gearcase, what are my steps or sequences right here? To ensure the the motor is in fwd and i get good seperation of the shifting linkage. the rest I hope is pretty straight fwd. Thanks in advance. SME

 

[F_R]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

First, there is no mechanical "linkage". It is shifted electrically. But you certainly do have to disconnect that wire. Before that, you have to remove the rear cover from the midsection (whole bunch of screws). With the cover off, disconnect the knife terminals at the top end of that cable. Then fish the cable out through the hole where you took the little plate off. Now, remove the two bolts holding the inner plate, and pull it off the cable (a bit of oil helps).

NOW you are ready to drop the lower unit to access the pump. But before you do, tie a string to the top end of the electric cable. You will need the string to pull the cable back up when you reassemble everything. Needless to say, don't pull the string all the way out with the cable (!!)

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Disconnect the shift wires at the knife connectors at the powerhead. After they are disconnected, tie a heavy string to them. Take the bolts out that hold the lower unit in place and remove the gearcase, CAREFULLY pulling the shift wires (and string) through the midsection. After getting the gearcase off of the motor, untie the string. Use it to pull the shift wires back up when re-assembling.
An electric shift 40 does not have a shift linkage.

 

[smevil]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Disconnect the shift wires at the knife connectors at the powerhead. After they are disconnected, tie a heavy string to them. Take the bolts out that hold the lower unit in place and remove the gearcase, CAREFULLY pulling the shift wires (and string) through the midsection. After getting the gearcase off of the motor, untie the string. Use it to pull the shift wires back up when re-assembling.
An electric shift 40 does not have a shift linkage.

Thanks mates, exactly what I needed, had the jist just looking for conformation, get this done and I am ready for some lake side test runs. not bad after 15 years inop. She just needed some loving.

 

[smevil]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Ok all that went well, glad I got the rebuild kit and not just the impeller, feather seal and the big o-ring needed changed aswell.

Am going for test runs tomm. quick question, I understand 50.1 ratio is this correct we are getting un-burnt 2 cycle oil in the drum?

Second is fuel today has ethenol whats your suggestion, there is a link on internet where to get no ethenol fuel, or just go with regular unleaded, also what octane rating 87,89 or 92?

Third would be I trouble-shot my temp light by grounding the wire out to the engine, light works after cleaning the terminals under dash, we heated the area around the thermal-couple with a heat gun (160') but could not get the light to illuminate, what temperture is the bi-mettalic disk set for? Also what will be the standard temp if you shoot the cylinder heads with a infra-red laser gun? just dont want to overheat my motor first day while testing. Feel real good about the impellar change just not sure about water passages internally.

Fourth we went through generator last night brushes, armature ETC. what voltage should I get from the two wire off the bottom of the gen or should I test the votage reg. batt and gen. posts for votage i read the other forms and they just check batt. for votage but am looking more precise, I was able to ring out the. gen for direct shorts to case etc.?

Thanks SME

 

[F_R]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

1. 50:1 is correct, 1 pint of TC-W3 outboard oil to 6 gallons of regular unleaded. Forget you ever saw that oil on the water. That's normal, just the way it was back in those days.

2. Trying to start a war?? Everybody has an opinion on Ethanol and nobody wants to budge. My opinion? Don't worry about it. But it probably is a good idea to run the carburetor dry before putting it up for awhile, to prevent damage to the float. 40 year old fuel hoses need replacing anyway.

3. I doubt you can get it hot enough with a heat gun to set off the temp light. They light up just before the motor burns up. Then it burns up the sender switch too. Most useless thing they ever put on a motor.

4. The generator doesn't start working till about 2000 rpm. It is regulated at about 14.5 volts on a charged battery, so that is what you should see at the battery posts. If it does that, it is fine. If not, there is an orderly procedure for checking it out. Self-invented tests should be avoided. BTW, the motor is supposed to have an ammeter. That tells you if it is putting out at any time. All you have to do is look.

 

[smevil]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Thank you sir. I am good for today, will see how high speed taxing goes tomm. might have some questions after that. Want to get motor rigged right before I even start on the boat side maintenance. Will stick out tomm. with an ugly boat and a good sounding old engine. SME

 

[smevil]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Alright We were able to go for quick test run on the motor, after getting this old boat it was down spark on one cylinder we got to the points and filed and regapped and cleaned the carb, rebuilt water pump, been doing test runs in a large bucket and its been idling really good, and starting perfect every time, so we get the lake starts perfect, the electric shift working perfect, idled out then added fuel to half throttle ran perfect half mile plus went 3/4 throttle and started a turn, then as best described seems like it came out of gear and over accelerated and died, ok so we removed the cowling and took a 150 avg. reading on cylinder heads so dont believe it overheated, turned over fine just wouldn't pop off, got it home and found no spark on both cylinders, my question is, what would take out both ignition systems or do they share a common link?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Well, according to the law of averages, you probably didn't install the flywheel correctly and it sheared the key. "Correctly" means the flywheel and crankshaft tapers must be shiny clean and dry. Then you MUST use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 100-105 foot pounds.

Again according to the law of averages, if I am correct and that is what happened, it may have damaged the shaft and/or flywheel keyways or tapers when it sheared and spun. Do that enough and you wind up with a junk motor.

So, bottom line is pull the flywheel and tell us if I guessed correctly.

 

[smevil]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Im on it, snowing now, went out and looked at it and think i will wait a day or two, but will get back with you I'm curious now. thanks.

 

[smevil]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Yes Sir, You are correct, the NTSB report is in. It is a sheared flywheel key that put a stop to the ignition system. Question now is there is some scaring to both flywheel and drive shaft, looks more like a metal transfer not bad am polishing with crookas cloth, but got the key out of the flywheel and I am working to get the other part out of the shaft, seemingly more difficult curious if you had any tricks. But always thanks again and will definetly torque the flywheel this time, not too barnyard here we torque things everyday at work thought I knew what a 100 ft.lbs. of torque felt like. SME

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

It is also strongly advised to use a factory key, not one from Home Depot.

 

[smevil]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Got one today 3.95 also had to get a set of points basically when it overspeed it messed up the runner where it rides on the driveshaft.

 

[smevil]

Re: 1970 40hp evinrude electric shift, impeller change quick question.

Well, according to the law of averages, you probably didn't install the flywheel correctly and it sheared the key. "Correctly" means the flywheel and crankshaft tapers must be shiny clean and dry. Then you MUST use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 100-105 foot pounds.


So, bottom line is pull the flywheel and tell us if I guessed correctly.

Again according to the law of averages, if I am correct and that is what happened, it may have damaged the shaft and/or flywheel keyways or tapers when it sheared and spun. Do that enough and you wind up with a junk motor.

Ok was able to go out again, The way I seen it go down from the week before was the prop rubber bushing broke first that then oversped the motor shearing the key, so got it back out got into 20% throttle before the prop began to spin. was able to putt around.
which brings up just a couple a questions,
1. Is there an adjustment for idle? It idles good until you put it in gear, then the idle drops down and idles best way to explain "shakey".
2. What is the adjustment top of the carb fwd looking aft top left that screws in and out then moves the plastic porkchop looking piece slightly under the flywheel?