1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

T

The Starcraft Enterprise

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Engine does not want to start when it's a little hot. I put new gas in it, new fuel pump and there are farely new spark plugs. I also cleaned the carberator. When it was cold it ran fine and ran it for about 5 minutes and cut the engine. 10 minutes later it ran fine again. On the third start up I couldnt start it. When finally got back to shore, I noticed that the carberator pin was really loose and it fell out. Could this be the problem? Electrical problem? The water pump does work but its more of heavy mist and not steady stream. Water pump?
 
T

The Starcraft Enterprise

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

I dont know it's a cylindrical pin that screws into the carb. Are ignition coils intermettent? Can they work sometimes and not other times?
 
T

tx1961whaler

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

I think you are talking about the low speed needle valve? Yes, if the needle valve is loose then it won't run.
#43 ???
39919.gif
 
kfa4303

kfa4303

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

Hi Enterprise. The symptoms you're describing make me think ignition. The original coils will fail in time. Thankfully, replacement coils are only about $20 and about 50000 times more reliable. If/when you replace the coils you'll never need to replace them again. To test your spark, try to get it to run until it fails, then check the spark on each cylinder using a little $5 gap tester from the auto store. You should get a nice bright blue spark that can jump a 1/4" gap. Here's a link that can walk you through the whole job is pretty easy. You may as well replace the points and condensers and spark plug wires while you're at it too. Make sure your get 7mm copper core spark plug wires rather than automotive style wires. NAPA, small engine shops and other auto stores would carry the wire and sell in for a $1 a foot, or so. All told, you can get new coils, points & condensers, and spark plug wires for about $75. You can get all the bits right here at iboats too. Once you've got consistent spark, and compression all that's left is fuel. Your primer bulb should be soft prior to cold start, get firm when you squeeze it, then go slack once the motor is running. If it never gets firm, you probably have a bad fuel pump. Give these a try and holler back.

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Evinrude 3 HP Lightwin Outboard Boat Motor
/Evinrude%20Johnson%203%20HP%201952-1967%20Ignition%20System%20Tune-up.htm

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/index6.htm
 
nwcove

nwcove

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

if thats the case your motor was sucking air past part 43. if you just "cleaned the carb", thats not enough, you need to get the kit, and clean it right, replace the packings for #43, and snug down the packing nut.
 
T

The Starcraft Enterprise

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

Thanks for the help! I think I am just going to replace everything you mentioned and even get the carb kit. I picked up this boat motor and trailer for 200 bucks and I dont know when anything was replaced. If I replace the entire ignition system than that is one less thing to worry about. There's nothing worse than getting stuck out on the water. I know this engine has great compression becuase it runs great on the cold start, I just have to deal with the spark. The boating season in Vermont is too short and I didnt buy this thing to look at or to plant flowers in. I'll keep you posted.
 
T

The Starcraft Enterprise

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

Hey,

I am trying to take off the wheel (1-1/16" Bolt) and I can't but enough torqure on it becuase the wheel keeps spinning. Any suggestions?
 
T

tx1961whaler

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

They make a flywheel holder. I have used an old timing belt, a nylon strap, and even a regular (pants) belt to wrap around the flywheel and hold it. I use this chain thing from Harbor Freight now: http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps/locking-chain-clamp-36813.html
It is VERY IMPORTANT that you torque that back on to 100-105 ft-lbs, or you'll shear the flywheel key. If it shears off more than a few times then the crankshaft is toast.
 
kfa4303

kfa4303

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

You mean the flywheel? IF so, you'll need to find a way to hold it still while you loosen the flyhweel nut and later use the flywheel puller. I used to use a large nylon strap from a ratchet set on my old '66 33 hp. I attached the S-hook in the strap to the lifting eye on the motor and then wrapped the strap around the perimeter of the flywheel such that it tightened when I loosened the bolt. It also help to use an extender arm on your socket wrench. I just used a galvanized pipe and slipped it onto the handle of the ratchet to gain leverage/torque. Be sure you have a proper flywheel puller and use (1/4" x 20 x 3") GRADE 8 bolts. The ones that come with the pullers aren't strong enough. The link below has some good pics that can show you how to use the puller as well as rebuild the carb.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/24/index.cfm

flywheel puller.jpg

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...hnson 5.5 HP 1954-1964 Carburetor Tune-UP.htm
 
T

The Starcraft Enterprise

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

Thanks guys. I actually got that 1-1/16" bolt off by using an oil filter wrench on the top part of the flywheel. Now the flywheel seems to be stock on that crank shaft. Is there an easy way to remove this? Rubber mallet? Special tool? Lube?

Now on the carb: Part 43 was loose and I cant thread it back on by hand becuase the threads on the pin look smaller than the threads that are visible. I think I am missing part #50.
 
lindy46

lindy46

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

As KFA mentioned, you need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off once the nut is off. You need a harmonic balance puller with 3 grade #8 bolts that thread into the holes on the top of the flywheel. Even with the puller, that flywheel can be a bear to get off. Leave the flywheel nut on loosely and begin tightening the center bolt on the puller. It may take some time to get it to "pop", and it'll scare the crap out of you the first time it lets loose. The loose flywheel nut assures that the flywheel doesn't get launched across the room. I have good luck using an impact wrench on the puller - usually pops the flywheel right off.

The needle threads into a barrel-type bushing in the carb, and if the packing nut is missing, the bushing may also be missing as the packing nut holds it in. That would explain why the needle is not screwing into the carb body. The bushing must be there to adjust the needle and the packing nut must be there to hold everything together.
 
T

The Starcraft Enterprise

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

I am ordering everything shortly. What do you mean by points? I am little new to small engines and I just want to make sure I order everything once.
 
nwcove

nwcove

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

go to marineengine .com, plug in your model # and get framiliar with your engine.
 
T

tx1961whaler

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Re: 1969 40HP Johnson Outboard

No, they do not come with the packing nut. Yours is sitting in the bottom of the engine pan.
 
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