1968-71 Naden N-16 Big Fisherman Restoration

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Watermann

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I've used the rusto se primer in rattle cans and had really good luck. How many depends on if your doing the boat inside and out. For your whole Naden 4 cans would be plenty as you don't paint it on, rather you cover the surface with it so no bare metal shows.
 

pckeen

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I've used the rusto se primer in rattle cans and had really good luck. How many depends on if your doing the boat inside and out. For your whole Naden 4 cans would be plenty as you don't paint it on, rather you cover the surface with it so no bare metal shows.

Thanks - I've got six on order (just in case), but it'll be a couple of weeks before they get here.

Boat has been sanded, washed with a mild acid/water 50/50 solution, and sealed with Gluvit. 53 hours and $530. I figure I'll get the transom put in, and bolted into place, before I prime.
 
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Woodonglass

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I use this stuff...
SEM-39683.jpg
 

pckeen

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I used the Rustoleum self etching primer today....after some other work.

So today - bolted in the transom, fabricated a transom cap, and installed the drain tubes. I couldn't find a video on how to use the Moeller Flanging tube, but it turned out to be very simple - made a video for anyone like me who was unsure how difficult it would be.


Once that was done, I sanded the now solid Gluvit, cleaned with a degreaser and wiped, then on with the self-etching primer. I also filled some pits in the exterior of the transom with some JB Weld. I'm racing the weather now, so tomorrow (weather permitting) I'll prime the outside of the boat. The inside took just over 3 cans of primer, but there is more metal there (seat sides etc).

It's been a busy day.

 

Woodonglass

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The SE Primer only requires a LIGHT coat. Barely covering the metal. You should be able to see the aluminum thru the paint. You then follow up with normal Primer. 2 coats..
 

pckeen

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Is the purpose for the primer to make the top coat stick, or simply for coverage? The TDS sheet on this primer indicates to apply a top coat after applying the primer.
 

64osby

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Etch Primers. Etch Primer is a paint that is designed to physically bond itself to the substrate to which it is applied. This is achieved by combining an acid with the paint so that the acid microscopically etches the surface of the substrate, thus forming a physical and chemical bond between the two.

Primer is then applied to provide a good base coat for the finish coat of paint.
 

pckeen

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Outside is etch primed - and primer is bought....thanks to grandma, who is visiting. :) I'll be using Tremclad grey primer.

Just having a lunch break, then time to try out the new HVLP gun....

 

pckeen

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So here's the exterior with two coats of Tremclad grey primer on it.

The first part of the first coat took a long while, as after the first couple of minutes, there was virtually no paint coming out of the gun. I tried everything, re-read the manual, adjusted every dial I could find....nothing worked. Finally, I took the gun apart to clean it, and found that there is a filter where the paint comes from the paint hopper into the gun. It was clogged. I cleaned it, and the gun worked fine, for about five minutes, after which it clogged again. Eventually, I just sprayed for a few minutes, then cleaned the filter, then sprayed, then cleaned. To get the two coats on, I must have cleaned the filter about twenty times.

Other than that, the gun worked well.

So is this a sign of poor quality paint, or should I be straining the paint before putting it into the gun's hopper?

Here's the finished and primed boat. Tomorrow, if the weather holds, and do a light sand, wipe it down, and I'll paint with a top coat of grey Rustoleum if I can find it. $650 and 65 hours.

 
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Woodonglass

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Throw the Filter AWAY!!!! I never use it. Make sure and Strain the paint with a paint strainer when pouring it out of the can into the paint cup and you're good to go. Those cup filters are a PITA!!!:facepalm: What size tip are you using for the primer?? What gun?
 

Watermann

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Looking good on the progress, like WoG says use the paint strainers, get a pack of them.

216339d1353254845t-paint-strainers-paper_cone_paint_strainers__29757.jpg
 

pckeen

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Throw the Filter AWAY!!!! I never use it. Make sure and Strain the paint with a paint strainer when pouring it out of the can into the paint cup and you're good to go. Those cup filters are a PITA!!!:facepalm: What size tip are you using for the primer?? What gun?

I will - I'm using a Powermate gun, with a 1.4mm tip. Looks something like this - I was using the larger gun with the larger tip.

0e92f7ec-f3fb-4d84-b1c5-8beaef6d2d75_400.jpg


Looking good on the progress, like WoG says use the paint strainers, get a pack of them.

Thanks - I'll be doing that.

Picked up both Grey and 'Fire Red' Tremclad topcoats today. Turns out that Tremclad is rebadged Rustoleum. which is good, because I couldn't find Rustoleum locally. Couldn't spray today, as there was too much wind, and the drying time for this paint is measured in hours, not minutes (and I don't think I can buy hardeners locally). I'm hoping to be able to spray the first topcoat tonight.

Do you thin Rustoleum when spraying, or just use it straight out of the can. The directions on the can indicate that thinning isn't recommended.
 

Watermann

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I've used the rusto topside and tractor paint both were reduced per directions for applying by spray gun.. The rusto called for xylene while the tractor paint called for naphtha. I've not used the exact paint you have but I would reduce it even if the can doesn't call for it.
 

Woodonglass

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Yup, reduce it to get the best results. I'd recommend reading and studying this...Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!
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If you can't find the hardener then just use the same mix ratio for the thinner and you'll get good results. A 50/50 mix of Xylene and MS will give a GOOD mix that will allow the paint to lay down and smooth out really well. You'll have less orange peel that way. Set the regulator at about 38psi and adjust the fan so just starts to flare a bit wide. If you're not getting a good volume of paint flow, add 50ml more thinner per 500ml of paint. I only mix 500ml of paint at a time and add 125 ml of thinner initially.
 
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pckeen

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Naturally, I read this advice.....after I sprayed on the paint at full strength. Oh well.

I threw out the internal mini-filter for the spray gun, as advised, and strained the paint through a nylon mesh bag before painting. It went on much more easily and much faster. No need to clean the filter at all. I sprayed one thin coat, then another once the first had tacked up - the weather is around 75 degrees outside, and temperature dropping, so I don't believe I'll have a problem.

It isn't perfect, but I'm happy with it. If the paint has covered properly, then I don't plan to put on a third coat.

How long should I let the grey dry before taping it to spray the red? You can see where the red will be going on in this photograph. I don't want to rip off partly cured paint.

 
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Woodonglass

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Since you didn't use hardener, you're gunna need to wait at least a week for the paint to cure and allow you to tape it off with out lifting the paint when you take the tape off. If you can put some heat lamps on it that will speed things up a bit.
 

pckeen

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Thanks - I guess that's what I'll have to do. I'll make another attempt to find hardener, and I'll pick up the ingredients for the Xylene/Paint thinner mix you reccomended. The paint was dry to the touch, but soft this morning. Is it OK to spray a second coat on after the first coat has tacked up, or am I better off waiting 24 hours between coats?
 

pckeen

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Which would explain why the paint (though dry), is still a little soft at the moment. Oh well, I'll wait to the weekend and see where things are. I did pickup some hardener tonight ($47 for a tiny jar of enamel hardener. Ouch!) $700 and 68 hours.
 
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