1965 Starcraft Nassau Refurb / Restore

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
I think your tintuition probably spot on, CC. It's about the only thing that makes sense. Something to look at anyway.
 

gberl001

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
41
You're making great progress!!

Regarding the rib cracks...my tintuition is telling me it was from a bad trailer setup (ie keel rollers not carrying the load).. Do those cracks line-up with the bunks?
They do, in fact I was thinking the same thing. Possibly that they hit a big pot hole (it is NY after all) and the weight of the motor coupled with bad bunk support caused the cracked ribs and the stress on the starboard side of the transom.
 

g0nef1sshn

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
1,291
Your getting it done Gberl. That trailer theory makes sense to me too. If this was on the starcraft side of the house I wouldnt have missed a beat.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Add in no stern eye tie downs just to give the hull a little extra hop and drop. :eek:
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,405
They do, in fact I was thinking the same thing. Possibly that they hit a big pot hole (it is NY after all) and the weight of the motor coupled with bad bunk support caused the cracked ribs and the stress on the starboard side of the transom.

Bad trailer designs & setups do more tinnies in than folks realize.

When you get around to spiffing-up that trailer, pay special attention to the bunks/placement as well as the keel roller adjustment. I'd also consider Watermann's suggestion of reinforcing those busted ribs with some aluminum angle...as well as adding some stern tie-downs.

No worries, she'll be bombproof again! :thumb:
 

gberl001

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
41
Your getting it done Gberl. That trailer theory makes sense to me too. If this was on the starcraft side of the house I wouldnt have missed a beat.
Thanks, sorry about the Starcraft thing, I was told there was a Starcraft section but I couldn't find it... still don't see it. Since I couldn't find it I put this in the Refurb section, figured it was the next best place.

I didn't get as much done today as I had hoped and I goofed on one of the cuts so I have to go get more plywood tomorrow.

Today's progress report
  • Got the first 8 feet of decking cut and ready to seal (paint)
  • Sealed the edges of the transom wood with two layers of resin
  • Got the first coat of spar on the transom wood and dashboard, next two coats will go on tomorrow
Cutting the deck under the bow took about 4 times as long as I had expected, because of all of the ribs and the drastic angles I spent most of the time shaving it down with a planer, I cut it large on purpose but heaved it into the boat and made adjustments about five times ha ha.

Also had a setback because I found out my resin hardener went bad so the first coat of epoxy took a long time to cure but it did eventually. I got new hardener and it cured in about two hours.

I'm really cutting it close to vacation time (one week today), I am going to bust my but even harder these next few days so I have at least a day or two to take her out and test, I don't know though, she's still naked.

I have photos but I'll have to post them later, I'm too beat to move and get my card and reader.
 

gberl001

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
41
Bad trailer designs & setups do more tinnies in than folks realize.

When you get around to spiffing-up that trailer, pay special attention to the bunks/placement as well as the keel roller adjustment. I'd also consider Watermann's suggestion of reinforcing those busted ribs with some aluminum angle...as well as adding some stern tie-downs.

No worries, she'll be bombproof again! :thumb:
I am adding some stern tie downs and I'll be looking at the trailer when I'm done with the boat. I'll have to do some research because I didn't know there was much specific about bunk placement other than just making sure they are capable of supporting the boat. I never really thought to look into it though so I'll get on that before I go tugging my now expensive lady on a 3.5 hour NY trip.

Come to think of it, we use the boat (used our old boat) to haul some of our camping stuff, I will have to make sure the bunks will distribute that weight properly. I did get some new tires because the old ones were load range B, the new ones are load range C. But, again, I never thought of the bunks when adding that weight so thanks.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,873
The Starcraft forum is linked in GA Boaters signature line above.

Here or there is up to you. Both have tin SC boat rebuilds.

If you'd like to have this moved over there, a Mod can move it. Just gotta ask.

Sounds like good progress, but man, a week, from where it is now, seems a push. A really big push. Good luck.

Unless you've got questions, you might wait to post progress and use update time for boat work....
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
You could get by with a double bunk set up for your boat but I would use 2x6's rather than 4's. Here's what my trailer bunks look like, minus the cross member I installed up front with a keel roller. They're 8' long quad 2x6 bunks.

The bunk boards (no PT) I measured and drilled the holes for the bolts, counter sunk for the heads, bevel cut the loading end of the boards, sealed with 3 coats of spar, put PL premium in the holes, put in the bolts with nut and washer on other side to hold while glue set. Carpeted the bunks leaving an open strip of about 2" on the underside. Used the PL to glue the carpet too and SS staples. Once dry you only have to drop the bunks on and tighten them up.

IMAG1395.jpg
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
I would look at doing something like WM did with wide bunks. Anything to spread the weight and reduce the concentrated force on your newly repaired ribs can only help.

If you want this thread moved to the Starcraft section, let us know in the thread or PM JB or me. It only takes a minute and we don't mind doing the move, gber.
 

gberl001

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
41
If you want this thread moved to the Starcraft section, let us know in the thread or PM JB or me. It only takes a minute and we don't mind doing the move, gber.
If you think it would be better suited in the SC section then you can move it, I don't know personally so I'm okay with a PM's judgement on placement.
 

g0nef1sshn

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
1,291
You can find the Starcraft group by scrolling down the main forum page. near the bottom you will see "owner groups by manufacturer". Click that and scroll down to starcraft.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,873
If you think it would be better suited in the SC section then you can move it, I don't know personally so I'm okay with a PM's judgement on placement.

Its where ever YOU want it.

The SC guys will find it here, where a bunch of other members will too. Perhaps more SC guys will find it over in the SC forum, but fewer other members will.

Unless you decide you want it moved, here is just fine w/ the iboats forum team, it is a rebuild.

Carry on, lots to see and do ;)
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Hey welcome to chanel tin where it's all the time!

The other resto guys who were subscribed to your tread will still find it when they get updates.
 

gberl001

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
41
Sorry for the short post (lacking response to some other users' posts) but I'm on my phone.

Just wanted to ask about Gluvit, how important is the second coat? I dabbed a glob on every rib and keel rivet. I wasn't sure how far it would go so I didn't want to brush the entire seam everywhere. I did only use half but there is no way to do a second coat brushing the seams. I did get some real nice coverage around those repaired ribs though.
 

gberl001

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
41
Since I've had some time to review online, I see that it doesn't appear many people concern themselves with the second coat.

Anyway, as far as the thread, I guess I'll keep it here. It's been here and it's been fine, I mostly wanted to post info to get helpful tips and provide information for others if they ask the same questions I ask.

I'm using MS Project to help identify deadlines given some stuff takes time to cure and because I'm going to have to work nonstop to get this thing done in time. So far project says I'll be done by Friday so I should have a day or two to test everything.... although, I'm behind already but it's a lot of busy work I'm behind on so I'm optimistic that I can finish them faster than my estimates.

For the splashwell, I would like to hear thoughts on using pop rivets with 5200 or possibly even just plain old machine screws. The pop rivets would be easiest as they take less time and they're cheaper.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,873
Just be careful getting in and out of the boat now that you've got GluvIt down. Don't walk around inside on the hull, lay some temp plywood scabs down to bridge the ribs.

Your weight on the hull itself between the ribs can pop the gluvit's bond to the aluminum.

Splashwell to transom, I'd use small screws w/ 4200 or 5200. Splashwell corners, gunwale connections, trim and etc, rivets.
 

dozerII

Admiral
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
6,527
Your making nice progress, I too think welding over the rivets may be a problem. I would have liked to have seen the welder remove the rivets at the crack, put a fish plate over the ribs that were completely broke and weld up, then you could have re-drilled and installed new rivets.
 

gberl001

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
41
I too think welding over the rivets may be a problem. I would have liked to have seen the welder remove the rivets at the crack, put a fish plate over the ribs that were completely broke and weld up, then you could have re-drilled and installed new rivets.
Agreed, I think this is something I might revisit down the road, I could still grind the welds down flat on the flange, lay some newly shaped aluminum over a three rivet span and reinforce this way. I asked him if he could replace them for me and he said "tighten but not replace", I don't know if he had someone else do the work but he said "you just need a hammer and a block of metal to tighten them up."

I have more questions ha ha. I'm thinking about attaching the deck and carpet and here are my plans, but I have some concerns or just questions I guess.

Deck Attachment
I am using the idea of scabs, I'm cutting 1.5" alum. stock to about two inches in length, I'll rivet them to the rib (on the end closest to the center of the boat), lay the deck on top and fasten it. I was thinking, rather than riveting the deck to the scab, using self tapping SS sheet metal screws (countersunk).

Adding Carpet
For the carpet I planned on using Roberts 6700 but from my research, when wet this glue can become pliable. Now, I said can, some disagree but that's a different discussion. Anyway, someone suggested solvent based such as DAP Contact Cement. My only issue is time, the DAP says it takes up to 72 hours to fully cure whereas the Roberts is only 24. I'd like to use the DAP as it seems more reliable but anyone know if it "sets" in X time but fully cures in Y time? Meaning I can walk on it after 24 but no major traffic/use until 72.

To staple or not to staple? I was planning on wrapping the carpet around the deck and stapling to the underside but seeing as I plan to mount the deck first so it doesn't move and what not, this contradicts my original plans. Do people typically staple when it's a whole deck at once? I see a lot of times they will if it's a bass boat style where there are many removeable smaller pieces but it seems I can't find any info on stapling for larger, single layer, single piece decks.

Transom Skin
I would like to put a new transom skin on but I don't want to put a 3/4 which is what I have in marine grade plywood. I have 1/2 inch exterior which I am currently coating in three thick coats of Helmsman Spar but I'm concerned it's going to rot. I was thinking of coating it in fiberglass resin in addition to the spar or possibly even using something like buying a large cutting board made of some type of specific material (not sure right now what it would need to be). Anyone have any thoughts on this?

General Comments
I really appreciate the feedback people are providing, I apologize for writing so much in each post. I always tend to write way too much but I tried identifying the sections using titles so people can skip what they're not interested in. I also appreciate the feedback from users for which I have had the pleasure of admiring their remodels and trying to use their ideas and their threads to get the idea that they were going through some of the same things and I found some good solutions or at least ideas for the future.

I'll keep you posted on progress when time permits.
 
Last edited:
Top