1964 Starcraft Jet - First Boat Restoration Project

[FIGMO]

Mod EDIT: Content removed, solicitations and offers arent permitted

 

[jbcurt00]

Send WPJ a PM Figmo

 

[FIGMO]

Roger!

 

[WinnipegJet91]

So during my restoration I must've placed a very important trim piece outside and I'm under the assumption that the metal scrapers snagged it from the side of the garage. it's the inner rubrail trim channel that wraps around the helm transitioning the dash to the bow cover.

Does anyone know where I might be able to find such trim for a 1964 Starcraft Jet

If you need a picture for reference let me know.

 

[Watermann]

At Ebay maybe, right next to the HensTeeth would be my guess... sorry. :grumpy:

 

[WinnipegJet91]

I'm really glad i installed a 500gph bilge pump in the boat.. every time i drive it, unless it's calm as a sheet of glass I always have to run the bilge for roughly 10-12 seconds.. which is roughly 1.6g every time i boat on the lake.. Does anyone know why i might be taking on water. I used Gluvet on the entire inside of the boat, but it's still taking on water. I wonder if the backspray from the motor is causing the pileup of water...

any ideas?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

watch how the water hits the transom when coming off plane. Even though i have my splash well in... leaky carbs when old motor tilted up dripped gas in the well... which disolved the 5200..... which let water in bilge area when slowin down instead of runnin out the splash well holes...

just a thought.

or leaky rivets still? did you put empty hull in the water or fill the empty hull with water?

 

[Watermann]

Gluvit won't seal the 100's of rivets through the ribs, only inspection and replacement will. Also the keel valley takes some special attention. Then of course the leak test after you think you have everything sealed up. Transom attachments, sealed up with 5200 should never be an issue. If you have back wash coming into the SW then it should just return to the lake through the drain tubes if everything is sealed correctly.

My SS did not leak a drop on the leak test yet due to the water pressure fully loaded and under way I ended up with a cup or 2 of water at the end of a 8 - 10 hour day never enough to kick on the bilge with the float and not enough for the pump to pick up..

The big issues with large leaks is rib end crack and the spray rail splitting.

 

[WinnipegJet91]

Gluvit won't seal the 100's of rivets through the ribs, only inspection and replacement will. Also the keel valley takes some special attention. Then of course the leak test after you think you have everything sealed up. Transom attachments, sealed up with 5200 should never be an issue. If you have back wash coming into the SW then it should just return to the lake through the drain tubes if everything is sealed correctly.

My SS did not leak a drop on the leak test yet due to the water pressure fully loaded and under way I ended up with a cup or 2 of water at the end of a 8 - 10 hour day never enough to kick on the bilge with the float and not enough for the pump to pick up..

The big issues with large leaks is rib end crack and the spray rail splitting.

Great ideas, yeah when I had the boat gutted I filled it the boat with water and replaced with solid rivets any leaves also there were some cracks at the rear of the boat just in front of the transom that I had to get welded.

I have a feeling that it's coming from the bow cap as that's the only place I wasn't able to do much with. It's never enough for the float to come on as the boat would need to be sinking before the float would engage. As well the splashing as I think I have a long shaft on the boat.. I'll take a video this weekend for everyone's opinion.