1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

Ralphw62

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

just a thought but, what if one side of the carb was set to lean?
 

seedpws

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

Would/could that cause one side to overheat? I noticed when I was adding the seafoam to the carb that when putting it in one side of the carb it bulged the motor down alot and the other side I could add it in really fast and it didn't bulg it down too much.
 

Ralphw62

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

do you know how to set the low speed adjustments?

I think it could absolutly cause one side to run hot

Just my 2 cents, I have the same motor only a 1960

let some others chime in before you change the settings.

did you say you have a manual for that?
 

seedpws

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

So I better rebuild the carb as gas is linking all down the front of the motor now when you pump the ball. You can hear it spraying somewhere. The low speed adjustment I don't think has been changed unless I hit it taking off or on the cover. I don't know what they do or now to set them besides moving them from side to side. Never really messed with them since I had the fuel pump and carb rebuilt two years ago because the boat was setting for 15 years in the guy storage that I bought it from. The guy working on the carb set them.
 

Ralphw62

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

its not that hard...I found a manual on ebay for 8 bucks I would get one if i were you first
 

seedpws

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

Ok I pulled the exhaust cover off. Wasn't as easy as I thought. Ended up busting off one of the bolts. Hope I can figure out how to get it out ect.

I found the gasket to be bad. In the center where it looks like the water goes on the side that was getting hot it was broken a little bit but prob was linking water/exhaust. I am getting the part tomorrow. Wish I knew the part number so I could shop around. The dealers around here know they charge top dollar so they don't/won't give you a part number. Think this is what was causing it? It was broke when I took it off.

Should I use gasket sealer when putting the two new ones on? Also there is a metal plate in between the two gaskets. Does the plate need to be replaced?

DSCN1808.JPG

DSCN1809.JPG

DSCN1810.JPG
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

The thing to do would be to start over so as not to overlook anything. I've looked at this thread and my advice is as follows. However, first a note about the pixel size of your pictures which makes scrolling back and forth a must. It is best not to exceed a pixel size of 400 when inserting a graphic to avoid that problem.

The overheating problem was due to the blown head gasket. That allowed the combustion mixture to enter the water passageways. That in turn caused a stalemate, that is the combustion mixture (exhaust gases) were forced into the water passages and they were forced up against the water flow pressure. This caused the water flow to be at a standstill, and of course with the water flow standing still, the engine overheated.

My suggestions:

Remove both cylinder heads again, then raise the pistons on one bank at the same height so as to have the intake and exhaust ports covered, you might want to shove a rag in the cylinder sleeves also. Get a piece of wood, say 1"x 2" x 4", somewhere in that area and attach (wrap) a fitting piece of #80 wet or dry (black) sandpaper to it with thumb tacks. Keeping that sandpaper block somewhat wet with mineral spirits, go over the block cylinder surface area with it in a figure 8 motion. Check the surface with a metal straight edge to see if there are any un-level surfaces. When you're satisfied that the surfaces are level, repeat this procedure on the other bank and on the surfaces of the cylinder heads themselves.

Clean all of the accumulated grit and dirt out of the cylinder sleeves. heads, etc.

If there are un-level areas in either cylinder head that cannot be corrected, install a new or good used cylinder head.

Follow up by finishing up with the same procedure but with #220 wet or dry (black) sandpaper, making sure that all surfaces are level and smooth.

Install new head gaskets and torque the head bolts to 18 to 20 foot pounds in the following sequence.

9...10

5....6

1....2

4....3

8....7

Remove the lower unit. Yes, I know this is double work but you do not want to overlook anything. Dismantle the water pump. If there's any scoring of the water pump plate and/or the interior of the impeller housing, replace them.

It's best to install a complete new water pump, part number 379776 which is still available via your local Evinrude or Johnson dealership. Yes, I know it's expensive. The water pump plate is part number 305434, and the impeller is part number 377992, both of which are also available at the dealership. The impeller is also available at Sierra, part number 18-3005.

There is a gasket under the plate, use gasket sealer on both sides of that gasket, this sealer comes in a can that has a small brush attached to its screw off cap. Use Boat Armor Sealer 1000 (comes in a tube) on the impeller housing sealing surface so that the housing seals properly on the plate. This is to eliminate any air being drawn into the water pump impeller area. Both of these sealers can be purchased at any automotive parts type store.

Check around for a lower price on the thermostat as the engine must be equipped with one.
 

xtraham

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

any holes in the plate? post some pic's, if there is any of the rung-off bolt left sticking out enough to get vise grips on some heat from a propane torch will get that, if it is flush center punch it (dead center) drill it out and put a helix coil in. as far as the carb running over tap the bowl with the handle of a screw driver the float may just be stuck, it will still need attention later, good luck
 

Ralphw62

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

When I set the low speed I do this... this was posted by Joe Reeves on http://www.outboardmotor.biz/
same procedure as the shop manual

great site if you haven't seen it yet
have a look around there... lots of good info

anyway
2323.jpg


slighty loosen the brass nut under the black knob so it will turn freely

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

lightly snug up the brass nut

take your time doing this and concentrate
when I was done mine ran like new and I never have to move the choke from automatic

hope this helps
 

seedpws

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

I am one step ahead Joe Reeves.I already put the heads on glass and sanded them until they was 100% level. It was pretty level as it was. I only torque the head bolts to 15 so I will tighten them up to 18-20. The water pump I am going to replace now that the compression is up in all the cyl. I don't want to waste money on something that is going to be sold for parts if its not worth fixxing.

There is no holes in the metal plate in the exhaust but there was a crack in the internal exhaust gasket. Is there any reason to replace the medal plate or is just the two gaskets needed? I think it was allowing either exhaust or water into the exhaust holes and maybe causing the motor to over heat on the one side? I am hoping. I am getting the two gaskets tomorrow and will see how it works. The head gasket seems to have stopped 90% of the exhaust coming out of that side of the cly hole where the water exits but when at a high rpm it seemed to still be some. Hoping it is just this exhaust gasket. What do you guys think?
Thanks for all the help so far guys.
 

xtraham

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

I think you are on the right track, and hope I have been of assistance, listen to joe and you are on your way to a fine running engine, keep us posted. good luck
 

seedpws

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

Still trying to get the broke off bolt out. Drill went dead so have to wait for it to charge. Got the gaskets for $0.35 each.

While I was waiting I pulled the carb. Found out why it was linking all over. The float was rotten. I hope I can find one tomorrow so I can test to see if the engine is still over heating. I have a manual but it doesn't say. On the float how does the little clip connect to the float so I know once I get it tomorrow. (i hope) Anyone know a part number for it?
 

Evinrude Boater

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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

Steve,
I understand that you have checked the plane of the heads but Joe Reeves is recommending the same process on the engine block. Both surfaces need to be flat and parallel to ensure a proper fit.
I was surprised you didn't replace the water pump earlier. I wouldn't trust any rubber part sitting for 15 years in storage. I can imagine some of the pump blades not even straightening out when it turns.
When setting the low speed needle you will have to take the black knobs off and turn them over if the the nub on the end of the knob is pointing down. In the photo above it appears the nubs are already pointing up. The manual indicates to have the nubs pointing down when you get the needles set, this way the nubs prevent the knob from being turned more than a half turn since they contact the carburetor casting. To remove the knobs you loosen the small screw in the center of the needle and pull the knob up.
 

ezeke

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Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

The float part # is 377164 Complete carb kit is # 382058.

Except for the jets, your carburetor group is the same as for the 1968 85hp motors.

You can get that online by copying this url to your browser without the quotation marks and navigating to the 1968 Johnson or Evinrude 85hp:

"http://epc.brp.com/login.aspx?ReturnUrl=%2fdefault.aspx%3fbrands%3dej%26lang%3dE&brands=ej&lang=E"
 

seedpws

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Messages
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Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

I did replace the water pump, rebuild the carb(costed me $220 at a rip off marina), replaced all points, wires, cap, coil, ect. I did alot to this motor two years ago when I first bought it. Now I am doing alot again. I wish I could just get a newer boat.
 

clemsonfor

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1,011
Re: 1964 Evinrude 75HP overheating help please

just because you sanded the head there may still be an imperfection in the block surface itself which is what Joe R. started out with a description of. On how to level this. But if you feel your compression is adequate for your motor condition and 100 is an acceptable compression don't worry about it. Tighting bolts may gain a few lbs also if it is not totally sealing.

good luck

-nate
 
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