1962 75hp Starflite Selectric Shift Evinrude Outboard Not Starting

[oldboat1]

Don't run on muffs (if your are), and never brag about success to your wife!

No needle seat would have meant the float wouldn't work, which would explain overflowing. If you have the needle with the black tip, you usually need a wire clip over the float arm to make sure the needle doesn't stick when the float drops (i.e., to allow fuel in).

I'm not sure what fuel mixed with water means in your case, but may just be unburned fuel from the exhaust. Happens when trying to dial in a motor.

 

[jimmbo]

Those engines wasted just about as much fuel as they burned. They had crankcase drainage valves that allowed puddled fuel in the crankcase to be expelled, into the exhaust. It all floats to the top of a test tank and looks horrible, especially at the recommended 24:1 ratio

 

[F_R]

If you are cranking the engine and it is getting gas, but the gas is not being burned (not running), guess where the gas goes. Yep, right out the exhaust.

 

[Clint Amstrup]

Ok, so now I can reliably get the engine going but it takes some coaxing. After the choke is on for a couple turns I open it up slightly and, while still in neutral, increase the speed to give it more gas. I have found that the engine starts right up when the rich needles are 3/4 turned, the choke is fully open, and the remote control is at medium speed.

Even when the engine starts (very fast), I have trouble getting it to idle slow enough so that I can bring it back to neutral and then push the shift button to forward or reverse. (I assume it needs to be in neutral to shift?)

If I can get it to shift into forward, is it safe on land? I am really worried that I am going to get on the water and the Selectric shift isnt going to work.

As a side note, the remote lever is difficult to move back and forth. What can I do to loosen it up?

Clearly I am still having issues.

 

[F_R]

Maybe I missed, but have you told us yet if the belt is timed correctly? It won't idle right if it is off a tooth. A sheared flywheel key will give the same results.

As for the control, most likely it is a seized cable. Especially if it happens to be one of the old fat ones. Replace the cable if that is the problem. But is the throttle on the motor easy to operate with the cable removed?

 

[Clint Amstrup]

Does anyone know of a good resource on how to time engines like mine? A video maybe?

 

[racerone]

Many years ago a " wanna be a boat shop " called me to ask how to replace a broken belt on one of these.---Called me 3 times to get it right.-----Best to find a manual.---I believe on line at ----boat info---or something like that.

 

[F_R]

No Title

Does anyone know of a good resource on how to time engines like mine? A video maybe?

Just what I figured

 

[oldboat1]

Might be applicable: I believe there's both an idle adjustment knob and a friction adjustment knob on the old push-button shift boxes -- look for the idle knob to be on the front (throttle idle adjustment), friction adj maybe at the bottom.

 

[Clint Amstrup]

The timing lines on the fly wheel and the distributer match. I think I might have spark plug issues again because it back fired a few times. I worked with the rich needles by turning them up. I was then able to pull back the throttle more but not enough to get to neutral and then shift into forward.

 

[oldboat1]

cannot tune a motor running on muffs -- just sayin'.... (need back pressure -- motor on muffs will run lean. l.u. has to be sunk deep, like half way up the shaft.)

[edit. While you're at it, try the automatic choke.]

 

[jimmbo]

I found this link again today, finally

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/images/9/91/Evinrudeservice003.pdf