1962 - 1970 Repair Tips Regarding Lower Unit Electric Type Shifting That Jumps/Slips Out Of Forward Gear On Select 40, V4 75, 80, 85, 90, 100 HP.

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jimmbo

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I recall the hubs having different part numbers in the parts books we had for our 63 40hp and 65 90hp. But since I no longer have the Book for the 40.... Maybe it was a superseded number. I will concede you worked on a lot more of them than I did, so you would know what swaps
 

Joe Reeves

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I recall the hubs having different part numbers in the parts books we had for our 63 40hp and 65 90hp. But since I no longer have the Book for the 40.... Maybe it was a superseded number. I will concede you worked on a lot more of them than I did, so you would know what swaps


I checked the book first also rather than to rely on memory.
 
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The parts I saw on Ebay the correct part numbers were used. I know the numbers. Besides they are right here on IBOATS just look up type/yr /model ect and find diagrams, part list ect. Great source of info

Years ago in the auto salvage business they had a book called the Hollander Interchange. It listed different cars, parts ect.. that used the same part and the part numbers . It was great as you could find the same part from different sources.

Does OMC have such a book? Would be real helpful finding rare parts& save money The 2 lines did share some parts through the years.
 
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Hope all had a good 4th

Well I?ll get straight to the SOLUTION of the electric shift jumping out of gear.

I took apart the LU as specified in the manual ?easy-

I then determined that medium grit Emory cloth provided the correct amount of texture to the inside of the spring. I first lightly hand sanded in a cross hatched pattern, both directions. Then I sanded in a circular pattern with the Emory cloth. I then sanded lightly in a circular pattern with 800 grit wet/dry paper to knock down any burrs so the spring would retract properly and not hang up on the hub. Since I was there I also sanded the reverse spring and hub assembly. A thorough cleaning of the spring/hub assemblies is required after sanding.

Inspection of the front spring showed signs of glazing -worn smooth- in different areas of the inside of the spring. This showed where the spring gripped the hub and had worn down.

This repair can be easily done by anyone with moderate mechanical experience. Sandpaper is cheap!

1[SUP]st [/SUP] photo shows a spring NOS for sale on Ebay showing the texture inside of the spring

Was not able to upload my pics as the files were to large

The test ride could not have gone any better as the motor shifted in and out of forward and reverse gears immediately when the button was pushed. The spring no longer slipped while accelerating or any other times. A performance improvement was noticed at speed as well as when docking.
 

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Willyclay

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The test ride could not have gone any better as the motor shifted in and out of forward and reverse gears immediately when the button was pushed. The spring no longer slipped while accelerating or any other times. A performance improvement was noticed at speed as well as when docking.

Great news!!!! Thanks for the update.
 
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Well thanks for the response Willyclay. I waited for and expected more responses from those who initially responded and offered advise. Since no one knew how to fix this problem and I just provided the solution -special tool- and tested it. As stated above in post 33. Very surprising.
 

jbuote

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Well dang!! That's some good info Driftwood Jim !!
​I have Hydro-Electric.. Not sure if it's the same.. Haven't had to dig into the LU at all yet (Aside from water impellor)..
Will DEFINATELY keep this in mind..

​Thank you for your efforts and sharing! :thumb:
 

jimmbo

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I guess nobody else cares.
Yes we do as I'm glad you got it fixed. When the old man had a coupe of those units, we just replaced the hub and spring. We never spent the time to resurface the spring. I guess nowadays the parts are less plentiful and more costly, though you seemed to have some luck and found some cheap on E-bay. I'm sure you learned a lot more than you intended to.
 
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racerone

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I developed a simple tool and repair technique back in 1976.-----Not many of those motors around in my area anymore.----Most folks are of the mentality that ONLY NEW PARTS will work I find.---JBUOTE the Hydro- Electric lower units are totally different !!
 

jimmbo

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In 76 was when the 90hp shredded its lower unit. But the spring broke so, no tool would have reconditioned it. But the knowledge that that they can be 'deglazed' will be helpful to many others. It may have been useful for my uncles 90. I know the spring on his wasn't broke, just slipping.
 
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Fun Times

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Driftwood Jim, Thank you for taking the extra time at thoroughly examining the components only to then share your detailed description of how to go about repairing these types of electric shifts that tend to eventually start to jump/slip out of forward gear....Please know that while you may have been a bit surprised that you didn't receive much acknowledgement after posting your new found solution, you can be rest assured it was read by all that post or lurk here and thought of as being super cool on you for sharing/posting your end findings/results for the rest of us to know... There are many members here that post extremely often that do tend to enjoy sharing what "they" happen to know of the subject at hand while in turn not looking for gratification thereafter which usually means the topic will fade away as posts such as you're welcome are sort of rare to see....Maybe you'll see one or two max but not much by the heavy hitter posters on the forums....It's just the way they roll.:cool::thumb:


With that mentioned, Since there doesn't seem to be any backlash from the community thus far, we (i) can only presume at this time the description of repair would be a/or the correct procedure to follow for repairs without buying new parts.

^ Now with that mentioned, I plan on cleaning up some of ruckus above then putting this topic in to tashasdaddy's Top Secret File (UPDATED 8/1/2012).

But before I do, I have a quick question for the members here in the know, This title is for a 1968.. '68 Electric shift jumping out of forward ... What were the exact years produced for the electric shifts being mentioned here in-order to input the years into the title correctly?

Thanks all.
 

jimmbo

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But before I do, I have a quick question for the members here in the know, This title is for a 1968.. '68 Electric shift jumping out of forward ... What were the exact years produced for the electric shifts being mentioned here in-order to input the years into the title correctly?

Thanks all.

That design of electric shift(Evinrude Selectric; Johnson Electramatic) was used on select 40hp 1962 - 1970 and on select V4 75, 80, 85 , and 90hp 1962 - 1968.
The 66 - 68 100hp used a different gearcase(almost a swap with the OMC electric shift I/Os), but the principles were the same
 
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Thanks again for the responses from all who contributed.

FunTimes - thanks for the response and please put this post where it can be easily found and seen to do the most good for all.

I came back and posted the solution as this is what this site is all about, and since no one knew how to perform this repair (except for one). I have read posts of this same problem here and at other forums with no solution provided. The post just faded away with no solution or what course of action was taken to repair. This is not helpful to others looking for solutions, so coming back and posting solutions is vitally important to all who read these posts.

I am happy to share and help others. The knowledge must be passed on as the younger generation has to learn from someone. There will always be those who are not mechanically inclined and will need someone to do it for them. Either lacking knowledge or tools, the knowledge of how it works helps all to understand how these things work.

A good mechanic will analyze how the parts work together. So a solution can be obtained which is what I did in this and other cases through the years.

We must think outside of the Box

The Kraken has been released!!!
 
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