1960 Sovereign 60

[FFScott6]

Hello,
I've been here before but I now have a slight problem... I'm getting water in the L/U about 8oz after running 12 gallons of gas. I get a total volume of water and oil out approximately equal to a fresh refill of oil L/U oil. (talk about a thirsty motor!) Anyway, I purchased a L/U seal kit and have cleaned everything and prepared for reassembly

The manual (a Gale original) says to utilize a puller to remove the Head & bearing Assy, I want to replace the oil retainer and head oring. What is the best kind of puller and what sis the safest way to reinstall without breaking the tabs protecting the 4 screws.

I'm guessing it has not been serviced in MANY years. roller bearings and other visible gears seem to be in nice shape little or no wear, scoring, end play etc. Don't let me kid you I do not own a dial caliper, so it's feel and machining experience.

As side note if you search my original posts, I had no knowledge of this motor, but with some points, plugs, fresh fuel, primary wire repair (new plug ends) I can get 25-28MPH on a 17' Aristo craft w/4adults and gear. The Gale planes this boat nicely and holds it up at a bit over 50% throttle. Just a bit of backround info.

By the way I've had to make a gasket or two... will it hurt to use a bit of silicone gasket maker to ensure a below the water line seal?

Thanks to iBoats mods and the rest of you as well!!!

Happy Boating - Scott & Dot

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 Sovereign 60

Are you speaking of the prop shaft head and bearing? As I remember it, you can use a harmonic balancer puller with some long bolts (all-thread rod). Actually, it doesnt come out all that hard.

You may be surprised that you can't get the seal out without removing the needle bearing. And you can't remove the needle bearing without a special tool, and even then you aren't supposed to re-use it because it gets ruined in the removal process. I do a bit of elective surgery on the head, but that is probably something you are not able to do unless you have a lathe.

 

[FFScott6]

Re: 1960 Sovereign 60

Thanks F_R.

Yes, I am talking about the Prop shaft. I had a similar thought about the puller but I want to elicit some "professional advice."

Weather here, southeast Pa, this weekend is going to be good for boating and camping so maybe I'll order the bearing and take the camper out. Once the bearing arrives then maybe I'll have the required patience to concentrate on the task of the oil retainer and bearing. I'm ready with the water pump parts to complete the task.

I'm still looking for others thoughts so I can apply as much info as possible to this water intusion problem. I should say thast most of the mating surfaces, between sections and some parts, have some pitting but nothing that sticks out as a problem that a fresh gasket can't compensate for. Heck this thing is as old as me and probably runs better!

Thanks again!

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 Sovereign 60

Probably runs a whole lot better than me. I was a Gale dealer mechanic when it was made.

 

[FFScott6]

Re: 1960 Sovereign 60

Then i'm guessing i got about the best info i can get!

Thanks F_R

 

[FFScott6]

Re: 1960 Sovereign 60

Sorry, I was hoping to get a pic or two on here but I just kept working on it after dinners till it was on the boat

Couple more questions if you don't mind...

1. I was running in a drum of water, trying to set low speed jets, and smooth out the idle. It seems to need a ton of fuel just to idle and it's rough. As I turn the needles in it coughs really big then won't idle (less than 1/8th turns at a time. I'm wondering if the magneto needs to be advanced a bit. (linc & sync went well but parts are old and "loose"??? I really need to find a tach also.

2. After the tank test, the next evening actually) I found bluish oil and water draining from the "weep" holes on the port side of the L/U... I'm guessing this is from the "left over" fuel oil in the exhaust tube... I can see now that all the drain passages are opened???

I also loosened the L/U drain screw and the oil sample I let out is the same color, golden, as the new oil but it seems to be "whipped". nice golden color, I did not see any obvious evidence of water. Or is this "whipped" effect an emulsion of marine L/U oil and water???

Thanks again....
Scott & Dot

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 Sovereign 60

1. That's normal. Turn them to the right till it coughs, the turn it back to the left till it runs smoothly.

2. Dang right. It will dump lots of oil in the water. That's just the way it was back in those days. You won't notice it so much if you put it on a boat in the lake, where it was meant to be ran.

3. Whipped, as air? Think whipped cream.

 

[FFScott6]

Re: 1960 Sovereign 60

Sounds as though I'm on the right track. We are heading out to Turkey Point this morning for a run around the Elk and Northeast river, as long as the 12 gallons of fuel hold out anyway.

I'm thinking I'll leave well enough alone at least for now and simply enjoy a nice picnic lunch anchored off shore.

2. Dang right. It will dump lots of oil in the water. That's just the way it was back in those days. You won't notice it so much if you put it on a boat in the lake, where it was meant to be ran.

Maybe next week I'll take a driver and fine tune all the adjustments "on the water"

I needed a vote of confidence I was taking this in the right direction.

Thanks Again....

 

[FFScott6]

Re: 1960 Sovereign 60

Well, it's been a tough few weeks around here trying to get into the water. So much stuff going on.

FR.. The LU reseal went fine, more nerves since I never had a LU apart before. I had books and that was great help, just as Iboats guru advice...

Pictures below depict plugs and readings following several outing and about 50 gallons of fuel. a good mix of no wake cruising, a couple of full tanks run flat out till it was gone (12 gallons or so) and the rest nice criusing speed on plane (fast enough for a smooth ride) and a bunch of hole shots playing round.

Boat= 1963 AristoCraft Funliner 17 (all F/G)

**No tach on it yet
**air tube speedo - I get 22 - 25 on smooth water
**prop = 10 x 11 worn (no p.o. history)
**compression as shown without plugs 68 - 72, all 4 cyl increased by about 5psi with plugs in
**Plugs (J4C) look good and gap is .030 just as installed
**loading and stalling at low idle (mostly when docking) even for just a couple of minutes, any longer and I need to go back out and burn some off.
**feels like it isn't making top end RPM. no tach so it's not confirmed. (I may have asked around but where do I find a tach for a 4 cyl 2stroke)
**cooling water is flowing from a large (1/2") "bypass" hole on the port side above the LU and it is intermittent out the relief.

I'm looking for some opinons. Compression? variance? plug condition? Oh yea I get this (last pic) draining from the weep holes for a day, smells like 2cycle mix and water and NOT gear oil.

Thanks for checking it out! and offering opinons!