18hp Johnson fuel issue? (video inside)

[tondss]

remove the powerhead to replace the gaskets?...options.1.you have an offset screwdriver and the screws come out easily, that's as good as it gets 2. the head of screw just above your screwdriver in the pic has broken off ,but the outer cover will slide over it when the other screws are removed and that screw leaves a nub that a pair of vice grips will remove easily..3. other screw heads break off and drilling them out is the only option.. at this point removing the powerhead becomes the best option. Fortunately, it's not that difficult IF this isn't or has been a salt water motor and every screw/bolt has become corroded in place.

I will go buy an offset screw driver. And a screw removal kit and keep you posted. So I'll just need to remove the exhaust side and not the front power head where the plugs go correct?

 

[AlTn]

that depends if the inner exhaust baffle/gasket is the only source of the leak....pulling the head is no big deal < same qualifiers about salt water >...when you get the exhaust covers off you'll be able to see a limited amount of the exhaust sides of the pistons...look for any gouges, scuffing, etc. on them as well as broken rings or chips from the piston crowns. Use something to push in on the rings to check their movement. You should be able to see them move inward and spring back when you stop pushing. If you see physical damage to the pistons, pull the head and inspect the cylinder walls for scratches, rust, etc. At this point, you'll be in for just your own labor and you can decide if you want to spend money on parts,etc. to keep'er going or hunt for another motor.

 

[tondss]

that depends if the inner exhaust baffle/gasket is the only source of the leak....pulling the head is no big deal < same qualifiers about salt water >...when you get the exhaust covers off you'll be able to see a limited amount of the exhaust sides of the pistons...look for any gouges, scuffing, etc. on them as well as broken rings or chips from the piston crowns. Use something to push in on the rings to check their movement. You should be able to see them move inward and spring back when you stop pushing. If you see physical damage to the pistons, pull the head and inspect the cylinder walls for scratches, rust, etc. At this point, you'll be in for just your own labor and you can decide if you want to spend money on parts,etc. to keep'er going or hunt for another motor.

Update: purchased a punch kit and probing kit. Got the brass washer out of the gas tank. Also pulled the two orings.time to rebuild it. . Second I started on the exhaust side bolts. Most were easy but there is 1 deep down in the corner I have no clue how a right angle screw driver will get to this but I'm going to pick one up at harbor frieght tomorrow morning.. You can never have enough tools. After I pull the exhaust side. I will pull the flywheel and carb. Clean the low idle circuit on the carb where the Welsh plug is. Then I'll check the points under the flywheel. I will keep you all updated. Thanks again I'm learning alot!

 

[tondss]

Update: got all the bolts out. 1 was stuck. Had to use an impact gun with a flathead on it lol. Anyhow I pushed on the rings they did bounce back. Little bit of scoring on the pistons. Also it looks like the top piston hit the top of the spark plug :/. There is a small size chuck taken out of the piston. Looks like an eraser size from a pencil. Anyhow here's the video. And what am I looking at now?https://youtu.be/-uGWvr_rDdY

 

[racerone]

Simple.---The motor needs to come apart for repairs.----Lots of good used powerheads available for these !----That motor will never run correctly with that amount of damage !!--Also check the lower unit by taking it apart.--Be a shame to spend money on this motor only to find that the lower unit is worn out too.

 

[tondss]

I have never rebuilt a motor in my life but I'm sure with all your help I can make it happen . I guess I will start to tear her down. But before that I'm going to take a look at the lower unit.

 

[racerone]

Depending on your location a good used powerhead is likely the cheapest option here.------Lots of them available in some areas.

 

[AlTn]

+1 with racer...use that engine as a learning tool

 

[racerone]

Just another " classic example " of needing to do a complete evaluation on a 50 year old motor before spending any money on it.Post # 1 starts off with cleaning the carburetor--- etc , etc.and why folks start off with the fuel system is hard to understand for me.

 

[tondss]

Just another " classic example " of needing to do a complete evaluation on a 50 year old motor before spending any money on it.Post # 1 starts off with cleaning the carburetor--- etc , etc.and why folks start off with the fuel system is hard to understand for me.

OK so i thought the piston had a chunk taken out. However it's in the center of the piston.I noticed all the other Pistons look like that. However there is a little scuffing on the side of the piston but the motor is still holding compression at 100 for each cylinder. For a while i was running 40 to 1 gas mix because i didn't know. I changed it to 24 to 1. I probably shouldn't use the Walmart tcw3 anymore? I fixed the gas tank issue with new parts so we can eliminate that aspect. Today I'm going to pull the lower unit off. If all is well I will order new exhaust gaskits and a new empeller. I'm curious though could water have
Been coming up from the lower unit? I spent $90 on this motor plus a carb kit. I'm in it for 110 plus my time which is fun to me and I'm learning. Anyhow i will also pull the flywheel stuff off as well hopefully it's not to bad to put back together

 

[tondss]

Sorry for the blurry picture. The oil was not blue. It looks like water is mixing with the lower unit oil. See below picture. I believe the shafts might be missing and Oring as well. The top does have an oring the bottom does not. Is the shim below the employer supposed to be slightly warped?. tondss/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150501_193647.jpg.html]

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[tondss]

Missing oring on bottom? A bunch of oil always spews into my water tank when testing. And leaks from the lower unit somewhere. But is not leaking from any of the screws. I believe it comes from one of the pee holes.

 

[tondss]

Empeller looks good to me however is there supposed to be another oring or something between impeller housing and impeller where it seats in housing to block water from coming out?

 

[tondss]

On the housing there are only 3 screw holes. On the actual lower unit there are 4 and it seems one is being blocked see my finger pointing to it for reference.

 

[tondss]

Bump for help

 

[tondss]

OK so I have everything zipped back together. New impeller new impeller plate. New exhaust gaskits. I did a quick compression test and I was pretty impressed to find both cylinders holding at 110 each! Also I repaired the leaky gas tank as well. I am eating some lunch now but it's time to start it and see how she runs!

 

[tondss]

Verdict: Im selling this Piece of junk. I replaced the exhaust gaskets so it wouldn't leak water in the cylinders.I replaced the lower unit impeller and changed the oil. I started it and same problem it ddnt was idle but runs great at higher rpms. I checked the spark with a spark tester and watched the spark. It was perfect. jumping the gap at 1/4th. so then I was like maybe i need to pull the carb again which i did. This time I removed the welsh plug and cleaned it out and installed a new one.
cleaned the carb again slapped it all back together and still the same problem. I'm tired of working on this thing and am going to sell it to someone who has the time to fix it or deal with not being able to let go of the handle. You just wont be able to troll for anything. thanks for all the help yall!