15a micro fuse on 5.0 tks alpha

RussGT209

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Hello all

I am getting intermittent blowing of the little 15a fuse tucked in behind the distributor, near as I can tell the wires to the fuse are RED-PUR. The fuse has gone about 3 or 4 times, after an hour or so of running, and then it won't turn over until replaced. From what I can figure on the wiring diagram this fuse may be to do with the Starter, Alternator, Temp switch, Circuit breaker and TKS module. I haven't found any obvious chafing or shorts, I'm wondering if there is any common issue that might cause this.

5.0 TKS ALPHA 1A341817

Thanks very much for any advice!

Russ
 

Bt Doctur

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Aug 29, 2004
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Do you have anything wired to the ign circuit under the dash. electronics, stereo, stereo amp, etc?
blue is 15A,
14 - Fuse (15 Amp) Fuel Pump
15 - Fuse (15 Amp) ECM/DLC/Battery
16 - Fuse (10 Amp) ECM/Injector/Ignition/Knock
 

RussGT209

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The fuse is blue. I think the only thing wired to the ignition switch is the stereo, the sounder and 12v outlet both remain powered with the ignition off.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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The fuse is blue. I think the only thing wired to the ignition switch is the stereo....
That will do it. There should be nothing powered from the engine that is not part of the engine. Move the stereo to its own fused supply directly from the battery.

Chris.....
 
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Fun Times

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What year is the boat? Being a newer engine model with a starting of 1A*** serial number, some Mercruiser engine models have started using a separate 15 AMP accessory fuse sometimes located on/near the main wiring harness cannon plug connector that may have an adaptor type plug harness connected inline to the engine as well. Being the 15 Amp fuse is connected to the red wire which is one of the main power wires heading to the ignition key, when the 15A blows, it interrupts the power to start the engine like you've experienced.

Being an accessory power supply fuse of only 15 AMP, you have to be careful with what device you connect up at the helm to power up other accessories such as an air pump to inflate inner tubes, rafts, etc. for towing, or hand held lights for night use, etc. etc. as those items can be a big draw on the power circuitry.

Before the newer 15 Amp circuit came out, the main power supply for the engine relied on the 20 Amp fuse which should still be located up either up under the dash next to the key switch area....< Should your boat model not have a push button type circuit breaker next to the ignition key.

Some theories could be possibly an extra load of an heavy accessory item could weaken the 15A fuse while heat, vibration and time of the engine running is blowing the fuse later on....If not right away due to possibly you used an accessory with the engine on, blew the fuse, shut down engine, and get no restart. Something of that nature.

The engine never died out on you, just wouldn't restart correct?

How did or how long did it take you to find that hidden fuse? Took us 61 posts to find this hidden fuse :), http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...01#post5866601

If none of the above theories of why the fuse seems to be blowing on you seem to fit, then just recently there was another topic on another forum where the member was questioning why his engine would crank over on it's own without the ignition key turned... It was on a repowered 2008 Mercruiser engine model. Turned out the cannon plug adaptor wires internally became corroded away making contact with both 12v power and Yellow/Red starter wires due to these adaptors aren't as sealed up watertight as you'd think they should be.

So you may have a loose connection someplace along those two wire circuits of the hidden fuse causing excessive heat blowing the fuse or corroded wiring within the cannon plug connector causing issues intermittently due to design.

All that mentioned, you're roughly the 4th known forum member to me questioning this fuse one-way or another. It could be just user error as described above or my personal thought is it should of been a 20 Amp fuse from the factory to match the 20 Amp fuse up at the helm. It's rare to see, read or hear of the 20 AMP fuse blowing for little reason...Anything smaller installed seems to blow for little reason...Just saying not advising.
Somewhere I believe to have recalled seeing Mercruiser offers a bigger Accessory fuse adaptor kit at I believe was 40 Amps.: Small update Search online 84-889611K01 - Power Harness Kit which is the 40 amp fuse and uses 2 bigger red wires,http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l800/pict/112196703746_1.jpg

Below is one image of the possible adapter designed used with the hidden fuse + the adaptor showing the wire corrosion,
$_3.JPG
2016-09-23%2019.26.11.jpg
20160923_185515.jpg
 
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RussGT209

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The boat is a 2009. Yes, that is the offending fuse... the engine dies when it blows, necessitating a tow to the marina the first time. It took a few days of poking around to find that little sucker, I got some spares which was good as it has gone a few more times. I've not been using any accessories other than the stereo which I will rewire off of that circuit. I'll check the big screw on connector for corrosion as well. Hopefully that does the trick. She is out of the water for the winter now, but I will give the engine a good run and see...
 

achris

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Stereos tend to draw massive amounts of current. For each 12 watts of power, 1 amp. So if you have a 200W stereo, it can draw up to 16A (plus what ever the head unit wants.).....

Chris......
 

RussGT209

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I don't have one of those stereos that freaks out the orcas, just the radio that came with the boat. I'll definitely rewire it though and then shake my fist in the general direction of the Glastron factory for wiring it that way to begin with.
 

achris

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I don't have one of those stereos that freaks out the orcas, just the radio that came with the boat. I'll definitely rewire it though and then shake my fist in the general direction of the Glastron factory for wiring it that way to begin with.

:) Yes, we find the guys fitting out boats tend to be a bit on the lazy side. "Why do it right when you can do it quick" tends to be the attitude. Lest the poor SOB down the track who must sort out their rubbish..... I always run a dedicated 6mm pair (black and red in a protective sheath) from the battery switch to a fuse panel and run anything not related to the engine from that. Nav lights, radios, sounders, GPS, bilge pumps and blowers, internal lighting, etc. That way, nothing 'non-engine' can shut the engine down. And if you do get an engine electrical problem, the isolation from the radio means you still have the ability to call for help (cell phones tend not to work 30 or 40 miles out to sea, but a VHF is always heard :D)..... The only things I run from the ignition switch circuit (not part of the 'engine') are a fuel gauge and an hour meter. I even have the trim pump connected direct to the battery (means I can use the transom mounted trim switch to raise and lower the drive even when the battery switch is OFF ;)).

Chris.......
 

RussGT209

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So after removing all the accessories from the engine circuit over the winter, the problem persists. If I stay at low speed it seems to be OK, when I open it up the fuse will go after 20-30 minutes at 3-4000 rpm. I replace it and it will last another 20-30 minutes at planing speed. Any suggestions for troubleshooting are greatly appreciated.
 

achris

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To troubleshoot this I would pull the fuse and put a multimeter on the amps range in place. About the only thing that draws more current as the engine speed increases is the ignition module.

Once you verify that I would move the meter to the ignition module input and check that.

Also verify the voltage is staying steady across the speed range too. A dodgy alternator putting out too high voltage could also cause it.

Chris.
 

RussGT209

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I have more info, my brother in law went out today. He put a 20amp fuse in, three times when he was at 3200-3500 rpm, it would "backfire", he throttled back to idle and it settled, and he carried on. I will try wiring in the ammeter, but if this is the event that is causing the problem, I don't know if I'll be able to capture it. I will look again for chafing or shorts.
 

achris

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How's the system voltage? Backfiring could be the voltage has gone way high and the advance curve reference parameters are off and causing the timing to be way out.

Chris.....
 

RussGT209

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Thanks Chris
that sounds promising as the timing has been going out of whack. Where should I be checking the voltage?
 

RussGT209

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Would it be safe to assume that a failed rectifier on the alternator would be the cause of all my problems? I measured fluctuating AC voltage 8-13 volts. And it failed the diode test. I have pulled it off to see if I can get it fixed.
 

achris

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Would it be safe to assume that a failed rectifier on the alternator would be the cause of all my problems? I measured fluctuating AC voltage 8-13 volts. And it failed the diode test. I have pulled it off to see if I can get it fixed.

Yep, that'll do it.
 

RussGT209

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Is there anything I should check that may have caused it to fail, or do they just crap out occasionally? Are the Delco alternators servicable? (pn 863077-1)


Thanks very much for all the wisdom..

Russ
 

achris

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Diodes do fail. It's rare but it happens. Once the alternator is fixed, just check the battery cable connections are all clean and tight. That includes all the negative cables too. And check the connections on the back of the battery switch.

Chris. ...
 
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