1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

Ticket2Ride1

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Jun 9, 2012
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Hi everyone, I have the above engine (looks like new) but I don't want to tamper with it and am looking for someone near New Jersey who can help me test it. I had it run about 30 seconds in a drum, and it was shaking (left and right) so all I did so far was soak the carb in Berrymans Carb Cleaner for a few days and put it back together, without luck. The compression is about 135PSI per cylinder also.
It's very difficult to pull the rope on this antique. It has nice spark, all I did was clean the points and gap them to I think .030 on flywheel stamping. I have a feeling it's not getting gas, and it has no fuel pump, it's a pressure system, and the tank was cleaned with Evapo-Rust, and scrubbed out with 3M ScotchBrite pads.
I'm willing to drive 200 miles from the Lake Hopatcong, NJ area if I can find someone who has experience with these vintage engines.
All the decals and badges are there, all the paint is still on all the screws, the lower unit, and even the prop looks like new, there's only a few minor scrapes on the skeg. I'll try to upload a photo of this if I can figure out how.
EDIT
Thanks in advance for any help I can get here to find someone to employ with this engine, or I'll have to scrap it.
Regards,
Casey
 

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boobie

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20,826
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

DON"T SCRAP IT !! I'm sure there's some one in your area that will give you a hand. To bad you don't live in south west FL.
 

Ticket2Ride1

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Messages
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Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

DON"T SCRAP IT !! I'm sure there's some one in your area that will give you a hand. To bad you don't live in south west FL.

Thanks for the reply...hopefully I'll find a local old-timer on here that would be willing to look at it. I've been reading many good things about this type of engine, and was hoping I could use it as a kicker on my bass boat. The only problem I have is the lack of knowledge from the local marinas as the engine is more than twice the age of most of their mechanics. Moreover, most of them wont even touch an engine if it's more than 10 years old.
I did read somewhere that there's a person named GPALL52 on YouTube who's a collector and rebuilds these and has parts. I hope I can find him or someone else, somehow.

Cheers,
Casey
 

dkonrai

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 9, 2009
Messages
719
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

get a gear puller, a light meter, and im guessing you have some basic tools? and a digital camera? take pictures, and work slow. i would pull the carb and give it a good cleaning.
order a omc rebuild kit with the float.
read, read, read go to leeroysramplings for some tips and pointers.
another site
3 HP Evinrude Lightwin Ignition System Tune-Up 1952-1967
i would search for how to install a new single line fuel pump. thats a really nice motor. give it a shot. a manual is nice to have as well.
dino
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

Looks great!

Ok, the points get set at 020 not 030. Had the coils already been replaced?

What do you have the needles set at for the high and low speed? Should be 1.5 turns out from lightly seated for the low, and 3/4 for the high.

If you were able to pull the flywheel and adjust the points, Im sure you are more than capable to finish this! We will help.

Also, after you reinstalled the flywheel what did you torque the nut to? If not the proper 40 ft/lbs you may have sheared a key.
 

dockrat100

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 22, 2011
Messages
144
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

I have the same motor, but not in nearly as nice condition. You have access to some great mechanical advice here, I was an outboard novice before finding this site, and I have worked through several motors like yours and put them back to work.
What I always do:
Check/rebuild magneto
replace impeller
Service lower unit-new oil, (check for water in the oil)
carb kit

total cost, if you rebuild the entire magneto, is $100 If your coils are good, that will save you a bunch.
 

kfa4303

Banned
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
6,094
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

Hi ticket. Here's a great link that can walk you through a total tune up. The compression sounds great, which is the main issue. Everything else is easy to fix. However, the Points should be set at .020" with the plugs gapped at .030".

Maintaining Johnson E & FD Serie

Vintage Evinrude Johnson Outboard Parts & Diagrams - Catalog ITEM_2922

3 HP Evinrude Lightwin Ignition System Tune-Up 1952-1967

5.5 HP Evinrude Johnson 1954-1954 Carburetor Tune-Up Procedure
 

geoffwga1

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 8, 2010
Messages
394
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

Do definitely not scrap this motor,it sounds to me as if there's nothing wrong with it that a routine tune up won't fix.With the help you will get on this forum you can easily do it yourself and at the end of it all you will own the best little motor you are ever likely to own.Good Luck.
geoffwga1
 

Ticket2Ride1

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Joined
Jun 9, 2012
Messages
13
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

Looks great!

Ok, the points get set at 020 not 030. Had the coils already been replaced?

What do you have the needles set at for the high and low speed? Should be 1.5 turns out from lightly seated for the low, and 3/4 for the high.

If you were able to pull the flywheel and adjust the points, Im sure you are more than capable to finish this! We will help.

Also, after you reinstalled the flywheel what did you torque the nut to? If not the proper 40 ft/lbs you may have sheared a key.

Yes, it was .020, I was only guessing in my post, but it was stamped on flywheel .020 gap if I recall, but I think it's a timing issue and also, maybe it's not pressurizing the fuel tank. The gasket on thank looked ok, I'll try to see if it holds air but don't know how many PSI the engine delivers to the tank. I'm also wondering if the intake reeds could be gummed up or corroded, or "stuck" and I really wish I could find someone who could work on this antique for me so I don't do any damage to it. I'm a novice to these outboards. If it was a GM V-8 I'd be able to do just about anything except use a milling machine on it. These 2-stroke outboards kinda scare me, especially after reading somewhere that the bolts can break while disassembly and I already know how difficult it could be to drill thru stainless steels dead center with hand drills and chip out the old threads. I encountered that problem while changing a broken exhaust snout on a 1986 Force 50, and it took hours as it was above the prop shaft, on the inner side, and I had to use a dremel with numerous 1/8 Cobalt bits with a right-angle adapter to gain access without having to encounter the burden of dropping the lower unit and ripping out the prop shaft since I only had about 4inches of room there, so I think I was a bit "creative" and resourceful by not having to remove more old bolts. So as fas as checking the reed plates, I'm not sure if I can see much in there when I remove the carb (again). I still can't do much with it in my outdoor garage this winter as I have arthritis and bad lower spine problems and the cold is not a good time for me so I'm not in a hurry to work on it and hopefully can find a someone willing to do the work on it, and I was thinking of selling it anyway at a fair price since I don't have antique boats for it either. I just sold my 1990 Lowe 1700V with a 60HP Johnson at a cheap price since it's not easy for me to launch a boat that big myself, so I finally got a tiny 14' Grumman Jonboat with some old evinrude 9.9 on it the other day. I hope I'll be strong enough to pull the rope on it, not too strong anymore, but love fishing in the creeks. Lake Hopatcong NJ has some nice selections for the angler!!! Hopefully this thread will stay alive for some time, and find out what will happen to this poor thing in my garage. LOL
 

HighTrim

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Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

I highly doubt there is anything wrong with the reeds, I have hundreds of 50s OMCS, and have yet to have an issue with reeds.

If I were closer I could help you out. I would start with the advice given and see where you are at.
 

1946Zephyr

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Oct 21, 2008
Messages
5,556
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

Scrapping a motor of this type, should be considered "ILLEGAL" It looks like it's very low hours and will probably give you many more good years of service. Tune it up and it'll be an excellent machine.
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

Perhaps try for a trade for an electric starter to make it easier on you.

I installed a nice '57 Fastwin Electric Start on a little tin can boat for an older fellow this summer. Hid a little START button under his bench seat so he didnt have to pull start it. He was like a kid in a candy store sitting out there in his boat tied to the dock, starting and stopping it for half an hour. He was ecstatic to not have to rope start anymore.
 

nwcove

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May 16, 2011
Messages
6,293
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

Scrapping a motor of this type, should be considered "ILLEGAL" It looks like it's very low hours and will probably give you many more good years of service. Tune it up and it'll be an excellent machine.

^^^+1! that motor is in wonderful cosmetic condition, which usually means its in just as good mechanical condition. if you're not comfortable working on it yourself, id be calling every omc dealer within 100 miles, asking about contact info for any of the guys that may have worked there for 30 years and retired. i also wish i was close by, i'd work on it for free. ( maybe a few beers!)
 

merkdawg

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 26, 2011
Messages
121
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

The only thing wrong is that you're thinking of scrapping that motor. Yikes!!! If you can work on a GM V-8 then you can work on these. From the looks of that motor it hasn't been ran much. I wouldn't think the timing is off. If you got it running already, which you said it was shaking. Then I would say the coils and points might be fine? Definitely would take the carb apart and clean it and blow it out with compressed air. Then learn how to set the high and low speed needles on the carb. Also on you're pressurized tank, just pump the knob on the tank about six to eight times. Then take the cap off the tank and if it's holding pressure you will hear the pressure release. There are still mechanical parts for these motors. I'm just a novice, these other guys on here are great. Good luck!!!!!
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

When you set the points, did you pull the flywheel or do it through the inspection window? If you pulled the flywheel, did you retorque the flywheel nut to the proper 40ft/lbs? Was the taper clean and dry? If all of this didnt happen you could have sheared the key knocking out the timing. While doing the points did you notice if the coils and condensors had been changed>?

Then after the carb clean did you dial in the carbs as mentioned>

I know I mentioned all this already but thought I would again as you didnt comment on it and it is all pertinent to the issues you are having.
 

tomhath

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 5, 2007
Messages
814
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

I had it run about 30 seconds in a drum, and it was shaking (left and right) so all I did so far was soak the carb in Berrymans Carb Cleaner for a few days and put it back together, without luck.

Shaking sure sounds to me that it's off balance because it's only firing on one cylinder. Pull the plugs and check for a spark. Sometimes you'll get a spark with the plug out but not under compression so even if they're both firing get a timing light (they're cheap at any auto parts store) and check that it flashes on both. Check the timing while you're at it. Not firing on one is easy to diagnose, clean the points and check again - still not firing swap the coils and see if the spark moves to the other cylinder.
 

64osby

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6,799
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

They are a very simple motor to work on. With the help of the fine members here, I was able to revive a 1957 18hp last year. It purrs like a kitten at idle and screams at WOT.

As others have eluded too, if you were to scrap that motor you might be banned from this forum. That is a gem of a motor and I for one am jealous, wish mine looked that good.

Best of luck getting it running and Happy New Year.
 

Ticket2Ride1

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Jun 9, 2012
Messages
13
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

When you set the points, did you pull the flywheel or do it through the inspection window? If you pulled the flywheel, did you retorque the flywheel nut to the proper 40ft/lbs? Was the taper clean and dry? If all of this didnt happen you could have sheared the key knocking out the timing. While doing the points did you notice if the coils and condensors had been changed>?

Then after the carb clean did you dial in the carbs as mentioned>

I know I mentioned all this already but thought I would again as you didnt comment on it and it is all pertinent to the issues you are having.

Hi Chris,
Originally it had no spark, so I popped off the flywheel, used 400 grit paper on points, and spark came back....coils and condensors looked new. I did not know there was an inspection window so I did it manually by setting cam lobe to the arrow onto the points, but I did see an issue that one of the coils was rubbing the magnet on the flywheel, so I backed it up a few thousanths from the magnet, still has good spark on both cylinders last I checked in June, and I set the low/high mixing needles as you mentioned...The gap on the magneto to flywheel is probably about .015 now....when I did lawnmowers magnetos, I generally used clear microfische thin plastic between the coil and magnets to get them as close as possible without having too much gap. (a trick I learned long ago as feeler guages don't usually fit under there)
It was running very rough for the 45 seconds I had it running, and it was backfiring (popping) while in the 55gal drum. The flywheel key looked good, and the taper was clean. I'm pretty sure I retorqued to the 40# range, but when I get some time, I'll check for spark again first. Maybe while I was test-starting it, the mechanical timing advancer made an old wire snap off which connects to the points. I've seen that happen on my 1986 Force 50, I had spark across both, but after testing the boat in the water, the engine started to surge and finally the boat wouldn't go past 5 MPH, so I neglected to recheck for spark thinking it was fuel pump and reed plate related, and replaced all those parts in the Force, only to find nothing fixed my problem, so I back-tracked and checked for spark and seen it was only firing one one plug because of a corroded wire which I had to fix, soldered on a new round-lug connector. similar to the type they use on condensors. The one big mistake I did make on the 58 FastWin was use some starting fluid into the carbs (after I cleaned/soaked it 2 times for days in Berrymans)...but don't think I hurt the engine as it didn't run for more than a minute. Next time, I'll use some premix (24:1 I think) in WINDEX bottle instead of using starting fluid.
I've only had to tinker with a Force 50 this summer, and never had a boat......before this. I'm glad some people are already willing to look at this thing if it was closer to all you fellows.
BTW, it took me over 2 years to restore a 1970 Kawasaki 500 Mach III H-1 "CDI and Carb issues" wound up getting 7,500.00 for the bike a few months ago. My Dad was the original owner, so I wanted to fix it, and then it was dangerously fast in the powerband popping wheelies, and dangerous driving it, so that's why I sold it. Was a beautiful vintage bike and I miss it already.

Anyway, I'm reading all the other replies also, but I don't want to over-post to each and every one I view.

TomHath, yes, I should indeed re-check for spark. Sometimes I overlook the simple stuff, I can say it did pump a little water from exhaust hole, but once I get it running, then I'll probably replace the impeller, I'm sure it's all original just by noticing all the paint is still on 99% of all the screws on this controversial oldie, but goodie! (Hopefully wont break any bolts when I get that far into the project)

MercDawg, now I recall I did press the black priming plunger on the tank "while connected to engine" and then I started to feel resistance, now making me think it does hold pressure, but I will release the tank cap and listen for air, for all I know, the internal primer pump within the tank might have a "check-valve" in it to prevent the gas from draining in reverse direction when the needle seat closes to prevent flooding issues. Being we still have and ice here, not sure when I can mount it into a drum of water again.

64osby, thanks for the reply also!! Happy New Year, and to all others!! Maybe you'll wind up with this engine if your really jealous of it :)
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: 1958 Evinrude FastWin 18 15024 HELP NEEDED

Just so you know, pressing the primer button does not pressurize the tank, it simply sends fuel to the carb bowl. Then when the bowl is full, and the needle seats, you feel resistance in the button. The motor pressurizes the tank while running, so you would not know if the tank is holding pressure without running the motor. Just something to know.

When you set the coil air gap, set the edge of the laminations flush with the mounting boss. If you run your nail up the mounting boss, and catch it on the coil lamination, it is out too far. If it is too far in, spark will be limited. You want it just right.

Sounds like you just have a lean sneeze. Start it up again, and turn the needle to the left, or CCW, in small increments, giving the motor time to respond, until it stops sneezing. Should smooth it out. If you need the low speed needle turned out over 2 turns from seated, there is likely an air leak somewhere, which you are compensating for my richening the air/fuel mix. Ensure all fuel lines do not leak (I would change them all regardless) and the connections are tight.

The throttle shafts sometimes leak on these, hard to troubleshoot though. Lets start at the easier things first.
 
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