GM ball joints anyone?

mommicked · Dec 16, 2011

I'm planning to change my worn out lower ball joints on a 98 Chevy S10 V6 LS 2wd pickup. I believe the uppers are in fair cond, may change them later. I can get a loaner tool for pressing them in from AAP and MOOG joints for $70 but i'm wondering if there are any tricks or problems for doing it myself? ANY advice is appreciated, thanks.

rockyrude · Dec 16, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

Don't forget to strap the spring down, it's held in place by the lower control arm and the shock absorber. It also is under compression.

mommicked · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

From what i've gathered online and from a Haynes manual, I need to support the lifted front chassis on stands and then apply lift w a jack to the lower arm to remove some of the force on the upper a arm. Then I can unbolt it, and pull it off the spindle, and hang it up, out of the way,w the shock removed of course. Then unbolt the lower BJ and hang the spindle out of the way, and knock out the old bjoint w a hammer, I have a 4 lb, then press the new ones in w a tool loaned from AAP. Am I missing something? Are'nt there some C clips to hold the ball joint in place? It sounds too easy...........I'm guessing i'll have problems Knocking the original ones out or something else will need replaceing also. I have already replaced all the steering linkage parts last year. I plan to do the uppers later, unless they seem too worn when disconnected from the spindle. I'm not looking forward to the removeing uppers factory Reevits

!

chriscraft254 · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

I would replace the uppers while your in there. No sense just doing the lowers. These do not cost all that much to have someone do them for you.

mommicked · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

Thanks chriscraft, I've heard the lowers wear faster than the uppers? and mine appear to be in better shape from the checking I've done. I got 2 quotes for all 4 and it was expensive. Only $130 less w/o the uppers. I may have to change them though, if I find to mutch slop when they are unbolted. I know the lowers are shot, and should have been replaced a while ago. I do not want to drive the truck right now because of them. I understand your advice, as an alignment wont do much good if they are too loose also.

GA_Boater · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

Careful about just wiggling the uppers when it's all part. Many ball joints are compression joints and will feel bad without weight on them. Unscrupulous repair places sold a lot by jacking up the car and showing unknowing customers how dangerous their car/truck is because the tire assembly moved. Check before you tear it apart. Jack up the truck til the tire just clears the ground and pry up on the tire with a bar. If the ball joints are bad you will get movement. Movement means it's probably worn. For the amount of work the job takes I would do both sides, uppers and lowers at the same time if I found any of them bad.

dlngr · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

mommicked said:
From what i've gathered online and from a Haynes manual, I need to support the lifted front chassis on stands and then apply lift w a jack to the lower arm to remove some of the force on the upper a arm. Then I can unbolt it, and pull it off the spindle, and hang it up, out of the way,w the shock removed of course. Then unbolt the lower BJ and hang the spindle out of the way, and knock out the old bjoint w a hammer, I have a 4 lb, then press the new ones in w a tool loaned from AAP. Am I missing something? Are'nt there some C clips to hold the ball joint in place? It sounds too easy...........I'm guessing i'll have problems Knocking the original ones out or something else will need replaceing also. I have already replaced all the steering linkage parts last year. I plan to do the uppers later, unless they seem too worn when disconnected from the spindle. I'm not looking forward to the removeing uppers factory Reevits!

I leave the shocks on for safety. the uppers [riveted on] are the easy ones. Cut the rivets off and bolt on the new balljoint. The pressed in ones are usually not too hrd to deal with-especially if you have the rented tool.

mommicked · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

Thanks again, the Haynes manual says the grease nipples are wear indicators and the uppers appear to be OK from checking them. The lowers however are sunk into the cover, out of spech. I can feel a thunk when braking while reversing sometimes, and it's wandering and turning funny at low speeds. The tire wear is fine, which is suprising to me w all the slop I'm feeling lately. I believe I can see the wheels look cambered in at the top from looking at it out front.

Gun Dog · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

Feel lucky you're not doing them on a F250 4X4. $400 and the hole front end has to be dissembled. I feel I've been more intimate with my front axle than the last woman I was with.

coolbri70 · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

also check control arm bushings as they can cause similar symptoms compounding with the ball joint

mommicked · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

Ahhh yes, control arm bushings, I'm afraid of that and what I'll find when I pull it apart. I really cannot afford to rebuild the entire front end right now, and the truck is a beater w 150k. I spent $600 on a tranny rebuild earlier this year and am about ready to get rid of it. I really like the trucks power to fuel economy ratio as I drive the interstate to work, 50 mi round trip, and the engine seems to be holding up well. I need to find a cheap lower mileage S10 w bad engine or tranny!.

Gun Dog · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

V6 two wheel drive are great on the fuel. Keep it if the body isn't shot. 150K's not bad. I've run'em to 250k only to have the body coming apart at the seams.

mommicked · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

Gundog, What do you do when you cannot shim the wore out driver door hinges anymore on the xtracab?:facepalm:

I'm gettin to old to weld it shut and climb thru the window like the Duke boys!

Gun Dog · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

mommicked said:
Gundog, What do you do when you cannot shim the wore out driver door hinges anymore on the xtracab?:facepalm: I'm gettin to old to weld it shut and climb thru the window like the Duke boys!

My first thought was to weld'em, then I read the rest of the post. I can't believe they are shot on a '98. Get rid of it!

mommicked · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

I guess I "could" start climbing in from the passenger side! Hinges are wore out cause I waited to long to fix them the first time( I also think they're not designed strong enough for the clamshell closeing backdoor arrangement). I assumed the truck was'nt gonna last alot longer then, but I was mistaken! Also wiper control is on the fritz, works when and if it wants too, and they stop also when and if they want to when I turn them off! I've heard the combo switch is'nt cheap even at the junkyard.

Gun Dog · Dec 17, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

mommicked said:
I guess I "could" start climbing in from the passenger side! Hinges are wore out cause I waited to long to fix them the first time( I also think they're not designed strong enough for the clamshell closeing backdoor arrangement). I assumed the truck was'nt gonna last alot longer then, but I was mistaken! Also wiper control is on the fritz, works when and if it wants too, and they stop also when and if they want to when I turn them off! I've heard the combo switch is'nt cheap even at the junkyard.

Common problem with Ford trucks. Relay switch $75 a crack once every three years.

royal0014 · Dec 18, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

mommicked said:
Also wiper control is on the fritz, works when and if it wants too, and they stop also when and if they want to when I turn them off! I've heard the combo switch is'nt cheap even at the junkyard.

Common S-10 problem,too, but easy and fairly cheap......

Under the hood, back of the wiper motor. Three tiny little torx screws hold the plastic cover on (don't drop 'em) Behind the cover is a circuit board. $40ish at the parts house. Last one I bought came w/ a new cover and foam seal, and I think the 3 screws also. Easy.....

<<)))(((>>

dlngr · Dec 18, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

Replacing door hinge pins and bushings is simple.If you can do ball joints,you can easily do door hinges. The hard part is driving the old pins out.1 hinge at a time,you don't even have to remove the door.

mommicked · Dec 18, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

dlngr, I changed the pins on the door hinges years ago but not before they were badly worn. It was at a time I was refuseing to put any more money into this truck and thinking of tradeing,selling,getting another; about the same time the economy went south. The pin holes in the flanges were egg shaped and as I "fixed" it, the coilspring shot out and almost took my head off!! I tried to put it back in, but gave up.

halfmoa · Dec 18, 2011

Re: GM ball joints anyone?

mommicked said:
the coilspring shot out and almost took my head off

This happened to me in the parking lot of Staples. Door wouldn't shut. Opened it up and the spring shot out like a 12 gauge slug...

Be sure you use the proper grade bolts when replacing the ball joints!

GM ball joints anyone?

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