Starting problem

I'm Jay
I have a 1988 Chrysler Conqour 105 out board with a 115hp on it. I'm a master tech in automotive(retired) New deep cycle battery, brand new starter.Nothing seized. I can take the positive battery terminal at the solenoid and jump the solenoid. The starter turns the motor fine. On the solenoid there are 2 smaller terminals perpendicular to the bat in and out terms. When key is on one term is lite but other terminal never lights up. I have not tried to jump the smaller terminals.Should i try doing that ??.
The main issue is the ignition switch key on or in start position push key in the auto choke works fine. The ignition switch has two terminals that are lite. One is the auto choke the other must go back to the engine. Turning key to start I get a very faint click at the starter. The positive bat terminal goes to solenoid in. The ground cable goes bat to engine block. all checks are being done with a test light only. Help ??

Re: Starting problem

Jay - when you try to start and hear the faint click are you sure it's the starter clicking and not the solenoid? Connect the test light between one of the small solenoid terminals and ground and try to start if you get light, good. If not switch the light to the other small terminal and try to start - you should get light. Put a temporary ground on the solenoid terminal that DID NOT LIGHT. You should get a click and a turning starter. A click and no starter means your solenoid is bad. If your starter does turn you have a wiring or interlock problem.

To quote the iboat gurus "get a manual" and give us the year/model/serial number of your Chrysler o/b. These guys are fabulous when they know exactly what they are dealing with.

First post - hopes it helps GA

Re: Starting problem

Jay: welcome to the Forum.

The two small terminals on the solenoid operate the coil inside that closes the heavy-duty high amp switch. The one with the yellow wire attached is the start and comes from the neytrqal interlock switch. With the engine in neutral and the switch in the start position it will have power. with the switch in any other position or with the engine in gear, it will never get power. The other wire is the ground--it never gets power. If you put voltage in one side of a coil, in order for it to work, the voltage must have someplace to go, thus the ground terminal. Earlier solenoids were grounded through the case, but your type should be mounted on rubber vibration isolators so it needs a separate ground wire.

SO: first thing, make certain that the white button on the brown neutral interlock switch is depressed by the cam on the bent shift lever with the engine in neutral. This switch is on the opposite side of the starter and below the bottom carb. Some of the cables have a good bit of compliance in them so when the control handle is upright in neutral position, the linkage may not be. Move the handle through forward and reverse then back to neutral to try and center it.

Now, if the switch is being depressed and you still get a no-crank problem then try jumping from battery in to the small yellow terminal. If the solenoid still does not close and crank the engine (assuming that you have checked and verified that the small black wire ground is functional) then the solenoid needs to be replaced.

On the ignition switch, red is battery power in, yellow is power to start solenoid and green is power to choke. The "I" or "A" terminal is switched power--that is, power only when the switch is on and on your engine is used to power accessories such as a tachometer.